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Techical Discussions => Tech- - Engine => Topic started by: Robert Rottman on May 17, 2009, 04:16:40 PM

Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on May 17, 2009, 04:16:40 PM
My 69 Fury has been pinging on regular 87 gas. I've run the expensive 93 in it and that seems to get rid of it...but I'd rather adjust the timing to get rid if it...Now...I know it's set to spec. at top dead center (0 - TDC) My question is: (I never can remember this)...To get rid of the pinging do I have to retard it or advance it? There was a simple way to remember this but I forgot that too(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif)   
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Tom Dawson on May 17, 2009, 04:43:45 PM
you would retard the timing to stop pinging
Tom
I would back off 1 degree at a time
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Tom Dawson on May 17, 2009, 04:45:12 PM
to power tune you would set timing using the highest octain and advance timing until it pinged at idle and back off if I remember correctly
Tom
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on May 17, 2009, 05:29:40 PM
Thanks Tom...I'll try backing it off 1 degree at a time...never heard of the power tune procedure you mentioned...very interesting...I'll have to remember that too...I'll write it in my little book here so I don't forget...Forgetting seems to be quite common place lately...Thanks for helping me out...I appreciate it.(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
 
Bob 
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Leaburn Patey on May 17, 2009, 05:34:34 PM
I wish I could go up there and fine tune that car...
Retarding the timing is a band-aid,IMO.
Dropping the timing will decrease the engine's power and effeicency.
In layman's terms a real dog climbing hills,etc.
I have a few tricks,but first I need to ask a couple of questions.
Bob,do you have electronic ignition?
How much driving has  the car done and how long/short are the runs?
Do you have a good timing light that shows advance?
 Got a vacuum guage?
Are there limiters on the idle mixture screws?
Answer the ?? and I will explain why I asked them.
Now that you have a fresh timing chain in there,you can dial in that 'teen  run like a swiss watch..
Nevermind what the initial timing is supposed to be-first you need to find out what your total timing is at 2500-3000 RPM and adjust it from there.
 
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on May 18, 2009, 03:48:47 AM
Quote from: CBarge
I wish I could go up there and fine tune that car...
Retarding the timing is a band-aid,IMO.
Dropping the timing will decrease the engine's power and effeicency.
In layman's terms a real dog climbing hills,etc.
I have a few tricks,but first I need to ask a couple of questions.
Bob,do you have electronic ignition? NO
How much driving has  the car done and how long/short are the runs? Had pinging before this timing cover fiasco...50 miles since fix.
Do you have a good timing light that shows advance? I have two...One is very basic the other has a few buttons on it...I'll check
 Got a vacuum guage? No
Are there limiters on the idle mixture screws? Not sure...I'd guess and say no 
Answer the ?? and I will explain why I asked them.
Now that you have a fresh timing chain in there,you can dial in that 'teen  run like a swiss watch..
Nevermind what the initial timing is supposed to be-first you need to find out what your total timing is at 2500-3000 RPM and adjust it from there.
[/QUOTE

I'm very pleased with the way it runs...Very smooth idle...the only thing I notice is on the the cheap gas....She pings going up slight grades when I'm cruising only...If I give her some gas quickly pinging goes away...Thanks Lea...
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on May 18, 2009, 09:13:54 AM
Try backing out on your mixture screws 1/2 a turn
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Snotty on May 18, 2009, 12:09:43 PM
I've never liked de-tuning to get rid of pinging; it produces poor performance.  To this day I keep my car tuned where it's supposed to be.  I use Premium fuel and dump in a can of Octane Booster in the summer months as well.  Since this is not a daily driver the extra cost is not that bad.
 
I'd suggest biting the bullit and buy the better gas.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Leaburn Patey on May 18, 2009, 03:12:37 PM
I never run regular gas in my cars.Only if I have to when premium is not available--I will.  
87 octane has such a low flashpoint pre-ignition (ping) will occur.
Also today's gas has a higher concentration of corn swill added to the mix and E85 is on the increase.
Regular gas octane levels when your car was new was in the high nineties and premium was in the hundred's range.
Today,the highest octane available at your local pump would be 91 to 93 at best.
Up here in Canada Ultra 94 from Sunoco is available.That's what I run.
So,Bob if the car runs fine,put some good gas in it.
So what it icosts a little more.It is not your daily driver so enjoy the car for the few extra dollars more per tank..
All my 318's I ever owned I got better MPG,performance and no ping with the high test gaz.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on May 18, 2009, 06:08:07 PM
Ok guys...That what I'll do...bite the bullet and buy the good stuff. That makes alot of sense. I have to admit...I'm always looking for a bargain...I'll just have to look elsewhere when I'm at the pumps. The car runs beautiful...so smooth...hardly can tell its running it's so quiet. Thanks guys...
 
Bob 
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: firedome on May 19, 2009, 03:24:51 AM
Ya, I'd buy the good stuff too... you're lucky Lea to still get Ultra
94... us old guys can remember when Sunoco Ultra was 101
OCTANE!!!  Those were the good ol' daaays!

Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Tom Dawson on May 23, 2009, 12:06:37 PM
The only reason I suggested retarding is when the motor was put back, the dizzy could have gotten nudged and advancing it too far. I would always start with the timing and go from there. Furyfever shame on you for not having a vac guage-I've had one for over 22 years.
Tom
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on May 23, 2009, 04:14:45 PM
Quote from: furyman67
The only reason I suggested retarding is when the motor was put back, the dizzy could have gotten nudged and advancing it too far. I would always start with the timing and go from there. Furyfever shame on you for not having a vac guage-I've had one for over 22 years.
 
You have nothing to explain Tom... You answered my question...I asked which way do I go...advance/retard...to get rid of the pinging...you said to retard the timing. I've never been much of a gearhead Tom...was a body man years ago...can do the minor mechanic stuff but have never gotten deep into the motor...hence the reason I don't have a vac. gauge and a lot of other specialty tools as well...Got a timing light!! wew hew!!(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif) 
 
furyfever2009-05-23 21:20:18
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: glen cyr on May 24, 2009, 04:14:07 PM
Did you know there was an adjustment in the vacuum cannister where the vacuum hose from the carb port goes! If you remove the vacuum hose, you can insert a 3/32" allen wrench in there and turn it clockwise to lessen the vacuum and counterclockwise to increse it! This is one of the best,take you by you're hand and do it right instuction tutorial i have seen! Lot's of awesome info! http://www.sweptline.com/tech/engine2.html (http://www.sweptline.com/tech/engine2.html) Good luck!
 
Glen
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Stan Paralikis on May 25, 2009, 01:10:12 AM
(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley8.gif) WOW!
Great reading.  Thanks. (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on May 25, 2009, 04:13:05 AM
Quote from: owatajrkiam
Did you know there was an adjustment in the vacuum cannister where the vacuum hose from the carb port goes! If you remove the vacuum hose, you can insert a 3/32" allen wrench in there and turn it clockwise to lessen the vacuum and counterclockwise to increse it! This is one of the best,take you by you're hand and do it right instuction tutorial i have seen! Lot's of awesome info! http://www.sweptline.com/tech/engine2.html (http://www.sweptline.com/tech/engine2.html) Good luck!
 
 
Excellent Glenn (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
 
That is true.  But not ALL advances have it. 
 
FYI  Aftermarket advances usually don't have that feature
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 01, 2009, 06:55:53 AM
Added octane boost....Lucas the best stuff money can buy 8.00/bottle still pings....retarded the timing just a couple lines....still pings....Now I'm thinking about getting rid of the points...going to electronic ignition...What do you guys think?
 
Bob
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Stan Paralikis on June 01, 2009, 07:12:42 AM
Points or solid state - makes no difference - has no effect on why it's pinging.  Maybe the distributer but not because it's points.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on June 01, 2009, 11:56:39 AM
Quote from: Commando1
Points or solid state - makes no difference - has no effect on why it's pinging.  Maybe the distributer but not because it's points.
 
The old man is right. 
 
It's either running too lean or the timing is still too far advanced.  The only other option is it's running way too hot.  But I think you'd know that.
 
Is it pinging real bad or just slightly?  Back the mixture screws out 1/2 a turn and see if that helps.  It will answer a few questions. .  .
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Stan Paralikis on June 02, 2009, 02:54:26 AM
Quote from: POLARACO
Quote from: Commando1
Points or solid state - makes no difference - has no effect on why it's pinging.  Maybe the distributer but not because it's points.
 
The old man is right. 
Hey, you're no spring chicken either!! (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif)
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 02, 2009, 03:51:31 AM
Quote from: POLARACO
Quote from: Commando1
Points or solid state - makes no difference - has no effect on why it's pinging.  Maybe the distributer but not because it's points.
 
The old man is right. 
 
It's either running too lean or the timing is still too far advanced.  The only other option is it's running way too hot.  But I think you'd know that.
 
 
Steve, Before I retarded the timing (not sure of the scale-2 fine lines from TDC is that -8 BTDC ?) the pinging was slight .....while going up grades at 50MPH....engine fully warm...I could here just faint pinging...I could get rid of it by giving it gas....Now after retarding to -8 BTDC...that slight ping going up grades is gone...but it pings bad when I give it gas....engine still fully warm....Now....I'm wondering if this is the issue. I'm still running Prestone Super engine flush...I'm at about 6 hours of run time....The bottle said 6-8 hours of run time then dump it and add the 50-50 antifreeze/water mix. The pinging in both cases is with engine at running temp. Maybe the pinging will subside with fresh coolant? All the pinging does occur after running engine 1/2 hour +++. I certainly can back off on the mixture screws but I didn't want to try too many things all at once...(I remember you said that a while back) Maybe I should do that next before changing anything else. Thanks guys...
 
Bob
 
furyfever2009-06-02 08:55:08
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: firedome on June 02, 2009, 04:56:15 AM
Only one variable at a time when running any experiment, strict science protocol. 

Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Leaburn Patey on June 02, 2009, 07:27:59 AM
Retarding the timing will cuase the engine to run warmer than normal.

Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 02, 2009, 11:21:05 AM
How about the thermostat I have in there? I'm not sure what temp it is. Should I get a new one...lowest temp they sell?...or what would happen if I had no thermostat? Just no heat right?? but it would run cooler....correct??
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on June 02, 2009, 12:41:06 PM
No thermostat could make it run hotter.  The thermostat is used to keep the water in the Rad longer to get coolar. 
 
You can't go too cool.  `80 ought to be sufficient.  What is the condition of the radiator?  Is it all clogged up?  Might be time for a recore.
 
I know Polaraco runs nice and cool all the time.  In fact, it runs cold in the winter.  To the point where I freeze my can off.  It doean't reach full operating temps
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 03, 2009, 04:23:50 AM
Thanks Steve...When you said '80...Did you mean the 180 degree thermostat? If I remember right, I think my choices was a 180 or 195 thermostat...The guy at AutoZone says the 195 is standard equipment. What will make it run cooler...the 180 or the 195...? I know this may be a "duh" type question...but for some reason (especially after your explanation of how a thermostat makes the engine run cooler) I have it in my mind that it might be the higher temp. thermo. to make it run cooler?? No..Yes?
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on June 03, 2009, 07:06:13 AM
The guy at Auto Zone is wrong.  The standard back then was 180.
 
Typo. . .Yes 180
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 03, 2009, 07:18:01 AM
Thanks Steve ol' buddy ol' pal. You are the Head Kahoona!...One last question...Since I'm removing the thermostat...is that a good way to flush the system? Remove it and keep flushing till it runs out clean...or should I just get one of the heater hose in-line T's with the cap on it. What would be more effective at getting the crap outa there? I don't like leaving the in-line T in there...looks hokey and I don't trust them either...Thanks
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Stan Paralikis on June 03, 2009, 08:13:03 AM
If I may, let me jump in here.
First, buy some kind of cooling system cleaner.  The more caustic, the better. 
Remove your thermostat and reinstall the housing.
Drain the radiator. Close the petcock.
Disconnect heater hose return line and direct it away from the car.
Set heater to "high temp"
Run garden hose into radiator.
Start her up and run until water flushing out of heater hose is clean.
 
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Snotty on June 03, 2009, 09:25:10 AM
I don't recall - how is the condition of your radiator?  If it's plugged, flushing won't help.  Is it new; does it need a rod-out?  A bad radiator will defeat all of the flushing, new thermostats, time adjustment, and any attempt to stop pinging.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 03, 2009, 10:24:03 AM
Snotty Radiator looks great from the outside but who knows...I've owned the car 4 years now...Don't know when it was redone. I just took thermostat housing off...There's a 195 deg. thermo. in there....which is good...I'm going to put a 180 in there..but want o flush system like Stan said....Trying to figure out which heater hose is the return...I'm thinking its the smaller dia. hose that goes to the top of the intake manifold...Is this right??
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Snotty on June 03, 2009, 01:20:46 PM
Brother, I don't know and am not at home to look it up.  Sorry.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 03, 2009, 02:19:29 PM
Thanks Snotty....I figured it out...The return is the larger hose that goes back to the top of the water pump. I flushed the system and removed the thermostat for now. There was a 195* in there! Without the thermostat the temp. needle rises just above the C...at about 10:00 oclock and goes no higher....I cleaned the plugs, set the points to .017" and timed it to TDC-(spec). She runs beautiful now and so far no pinging...I think the thermostat was making her run too hot...We'll see though...Thanks to all...
 
furyfever2009-06-03 19:20:48
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on June 03, 2009, 02:44:31 PM
It was cool today so that's possible.   Look in the top of the rad and see if the tubes are all clustered over with white stuff.  That's called Solder Bloom.  If it is, a Rad is something to consider.  The New Solders don't do that.
 
Also, if it's not too late, don't fill the rad just yet with antifreeze.  After you flush the system out, put some "Dawn" Dish Detergent in the system.  You want to put a real long squirt in.  Drive the car aound like that for a while, then drain and flush until the suds go away.  This works on the sludge in the bottom of the block and keeps that and rust suspended until you flush.  When you do the final flush, drive the car around, then drain.  It will take all that stuff with it.  Flush the heck out of it
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 04, 2009, 04:16:21 AM
Quote from: POLARACO
It was cool today so that's possible.   Look in the top of the rad and see if the tubes are all clustered over with white stuff.  That's called Solder Bloom.  If it is, a Rad is something to consider.  The New Solders don't do that.
 
 
No didn't see white stuff in the radiator Steve...after running the Prestone flush it looks pretty clean in there...no white stuff at least on the top...I still have water in there and no thermostat so I'll squirt the Dawn in there...and run for a while like that. I flushed iengine for a couple hours yesterday afternoon....blew water through heater core seperately too many many times....Lots of junk came out of there...blew it both ways...junk was still coming out by the time I was done...I had to give up my back was giving out. Is it possible to get a lower than 180 thermostat?
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: glen cyr on June 04, 2009, 06:07:56 AM
Stant makes a 160 degree one.
 
Glen
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 04, 2009, 06:11:20 AM
Thanks very much Glen, Since I drive this car mainly in the summer months, I think that would be the way to go. I'm going to look for this Stant 160......
 
Bob
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Stan Paralikis on June 04, 2009, 06:20:36 AM
One word of warning.  Running a too cool a thermostat (e.g. 160) doesn't allow the oil to run hot enough to do 100% of it's job.  The additives, especially the detergents, which prevent deposits, are formulated to work at a very high temp. They work better at 180.  Even better at 195.  195 is too hot down here, especially the way 440's crank out BTU's like a runaway nuclear plant, so I have settled on the 180.
Commando12009-06-04 11:23:46
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 04, 2009, 06:39:42 AM
So it's quite the trade off huh Stan? Running too hot makes the motor ping...running too cool might keep the motor oil from doing its job...Oh...decisions decisons...I'm running 10-30 motor oil now...If I go to a cooler thermostat...could I compensate for it by running differnet oil? I never understood that stuff either... 
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on June 04, 2009, 07:05:06 AM
180 is not too cold.  The oil will work the same.  Remember, you have a higher compression ratio than the modern engines have.
 
You could use synthetics. . . . That would eliminate sludge
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 04, 2009, 07:21:30 AM
Steve, Caught you Post skipping?....I was considering the 160* thermostat...Stan said to be careful with that one because the oil wouldn't get hot enough...Then I was wondering if I could compensate with a different oil that would work better at 160*....The reason I'd like to go to 160* If I remember right, I ran a 180* before the fiasco with the timing cover holes/coolant leak into the crankcase. It pinged then too...
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on June 04, 2009, 08:43:48 AM
I dunno about the 160 though. . .  I saw that. . . . I just neglected to comment.
 
Now I know it was pinging with the 180.  That I didn't see.
 
I don't jump rope here, but it's a juggling act to keep on top of all this. . . .  Since you don't run it in the winter that often, then you can try the 160 and go for synthetic oils.  Mobil one used to be the best, but do some research now.  Your change intervals will go down too.
 
The only thing I worry about with the 160 is condensation in the engine.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Snotty on June 04, 2009, 09:53:11 AM
I use a 160 with no problem Bob, but the temperatures here got over 100 in the summer. 
 
Stan is correct about proper oil temp, but unless you are drving your car 100 miles a day, it's not really an issue.  If you are a typical old-car driver, you're doing less than 20 miles at a time, and then only once a week.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 04, 2009, 10:06:25 AM
Snotty, Do you use the 160 year round?...and what type of oil do you use? I'd really like to go with the 160, but what about the times in the spring and fall when it's 40-50 degrees outside? I guess I'd feel better if I use an oil that will not let me down in all these conditions...
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Matt Aker on June 04, 2009, 03:39:43 PM
Stick with the oil you've been using but install a new coil.  Trust me, it'll werk. 
 
The 180-degree t-stat IS correct, so I'm eliminating the obvious.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 05, 2009, 06:16:12 AM
Hey Matt!!!!So good to hear from you. Thanks for your advice...so an aging coil will provide a weak/cold spark which in turn will cause pre-ignition...Is this the theory? Good stuff to have in my back pocket if this thermostat change doesn't improve anything. Thanks! Say hi to Mopar Siss for me...Bob
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Snotty on June 05, 2009, 12:33:12 PM
I agree - Matt, it's good to see you!\\
 
Bob, to answer your question, I run Castrol GTX 30HD.  Yes, I run the same thermostat all year, but our average winter temp is 56*.  It's hot here in the Bake!  We will have perhaps 8 days of temperatures below 40, but I don't drive my car on those days.  I have, but not usually.
 
If I do it's fine, because my heater works great!!  (http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Robert Rottman on June 23, 2009, 04:05:48 PM
Well....Pertronix EI and Flamethrower coil are in...timing to TDC spec is done...flushing the cooling system with Prestone + another extended run flush with Dawn is complete...160 * thermostat is in...Engine is running much much cooler now...I have much more power now...and no pinging! What a beautiful ride now...I's happy(http://www.moparfins.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)
 
furyfever2009-06-23 21:08:19
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on June 23, 2009, 06:56:01 PM
Just remember to pat yourself on the back for a Job Well Done
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Snotty on June 24, 2009, 11:40:44 AM
All right Bob!
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: steve fogel on June 29, 2009, 05:38:52 PM
Or you can go down to the local airfield and get some 108 octane.  I'd like to get some of that in my 69, it  pings on pump gas.  Some of the 76 stations used to sell 108, but that's rare.  Octane booster is the answer.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Snotty on June 30, 2009, 09:22:44 AM
I was in Sacramento a week ago and saw a 76 Station offering Race Gas - $7.50 a gallon!  Funny thing was, the station was no where near Sacramento Raceway.  ????
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: steve fogel on July 01, 2009, 07:43:19 PM
ouch that's some mighty expensive go-juice......
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: on April 24, 2012, 11:31:30 AM
Gents,
That was a fine read/thread re: 318 pinging!

If anyone is still listening, I'm looking for advice on the proper timing of a '66 300 440 with a mechanical Mallory with Pertronix and Mallory Super Coil (or something super Mallory).
I only run the highest octane I can get, and, like previously mentioned, throw in an octane booster in the summer or whenever I can remember... Some stations sell the same "brand", but their gas doesn't always smell the same.... [ I miss that lead ethyl smell.] 

My thermostat is the 180 and my water temps are between it and 190 down the highway, and up to 210-220 at a stop light.

I don't ping or knock or make any sound with the current set up:  TOTAL advance is 12.5 degrees BTC.  

My question starts with this: The '66 manual states in a chart a setting for vacuum distr (less than 12.5) and one for mechanical (12.5 at the upper RPMs).   BUT, further down on the same page, I can read "Basic Timing" is 12.5 BTC.   AND, if I remember, correctly, the reading portion in the manual talks about "basic timing" at idle...   I'm confused and I'll re-read it all, again. 

I wanted to know if I'm silly to advance the timing and test until pinging with a full load (1000 pounds of people) and WOT - then, back off?  

Thank you!



Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on April 24, 2012, 06:46:47 PM


Just set the timing a degree or two above the 12.5, but no more.  Adjust the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Guests on April 24, 2012, 07:28:36 PM
Since you have a Mallory and Pertronics, you most likely have too much mechanical advance, your total advance minus the vacuum advance should not exceed 36 degrees, which means you could only have 23.5 degrees inside the distributor if you are running 12.5degrees at the crank. Ported vacuum should bleed off as soon as you hit the throttle when pulling a hill with your weight in the car.
 
Now, Mallory mechanical distributors are set up for racing and the advance springs will be set too light for a heavy car and people like yours, and 440s in these cars do not like the advance to be too quick, guarantee you have a couple light springs in there for racing and you want a heavy and a medium spring to slow the advance down. It doesn't matter how much octane booster and high octane gas you have or use, there is only so much pinging that can be prevented, so it is the advance curve that needs fixed.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: on April 25, 2012, 12:30:02 PM
Thank you, POLARACO and dana44!   I think I know what you are saying, both.  :-)
My springs are light: I agree.  It seems to advance on just a touch.  Thank you.
I do have to check the total mech advance... It might be in the 25 range, so I may need to back off the crank setting.

Finally, just a follow-up:  What SHOULD my target IDLE speed be?  I ask because when the headlights are on, and I'm at a light in neutral, do I want that red dial straight in the middle or does it HAVE to be "charging" to the right?

Good day, All!



Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Guests on April 25, 2012, 12:42:07 PM
With these older cars and smaller alternators, at a stop light with the headlights and brakes all on, they do tend to drop below the center and actually show a slight discharge, it is natural. Upgrading to a larger 75-120amp alternator, somewhere in the 1978 or above I believe, this should prevent this from happening, stock alternator is around 35amps, so it isn't very powerful, but works. Your idle should be set around 750rpm, 850rpm tops with a very mild cam.
Title: 318 pinging
Post by: on April 25, 2012, 01:07:20 PM
Many thanks for such a quick response!


Title: 318 pinging
Post by: Steve on April 25, 2012, 01:21:11 PM

Quote from: 66-300-440
Thank you, POLARACO and dana44!   I think I know what you are saying, both.  :-)
My springs are light: I agree.  It seems to advance on just a touch.  Thank you.
I do have to check the total mech advance... It might be in the 25 range, so I may need to back off the crank setting.

Finally, just a follow-up:  What SHOULD my target IDLE speed be?  I ask because when the headlights are on, and I'm at a light in neutral, do I want that red dial straight in the middle or does it HAVE to be "charging" to the right?

Good day, All!


Depending on what cam you have, 650-700 on a street cam automatic trans.  Manual you may want to be about the same.  I think factory spec is 600 in drive