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Author Topic: How do you test a brake booster???  (Read 4867 times)

Matt Aker

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #45 on: May 06, 2008, 05:53:31 PM »

OK...  I'm the eternal optimist!
 
Wipe out that master and bleed it with fresh brake fluid and the system line disconnected from the front with the port PLUGGED.  Do it several times before reconnecting the line to the rest of the system.  This is BENCH BLEEDING!  CLEAN is GOOD! 
 
Once clean brake fluid is found here you will need to move to each wheel cylinder individually and crack each bleeder screw loose and bleed them, RR LR RF LF in this order.  If the system was run dry this will take several pints from my experience on a similar Chrysler...
 
It's NOT hard, just time consuming!
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Tom Atkinson

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #46 on: May 07, 2008, 03:32:47 AM »

Time is no problem.   I decided the other week when I found this site it was time to stop putting off the car as a hobby/project for fun.  Of course I make this decision as we get ready to remodel our house.
 
I bought the tech manual and it shows how to take apart the cylinder, and brake's at the wheels.  It dosen't look to tough but again I'm just starting out.  I'm thinking there is no rush so if I take my time and work on one section at a time and with you guys help I could  get er done.
 
My thought is to take off the line to master and see if anything went in it and if so how bad.  As someone suggested spary carb cleaner in all the metal tubes and blow out with compressed air.  I will then use a squeeze bottle to run brake fluid through them for the final prep.   The metal pipes appear to be aluminium so I figure no rust through or holes in them just old fluid if anything.
 
Then look at the rubber hoses.  Thinking I might as well replace them while doing this or is there no need to unless cracked.  None of them appear to be cracked and look to be in good shape.   Take of the wheel cylinders and make sure the seals are still good and put back on.
 
Next have the master cleaned up but how.  Sand blast, soak in brake fluid hand clean and hand sand off rust.  I figure since it's still wet the seals and those parts may be ok but if not I can get them  at an auto parts store.
 
Will this have caused any damage to the booster?
 
Am I just kidding myself and this is way more than I'm thinking?   I did have a dream last night about fixing this and having success.
 
Good gosh I'm a gonner.  Dreaming about fixing a car
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Herman

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #47 on: May 07, 2008, 04:01:54 AM »

If you do want to keep the old single chamber mastercylinder I would just buy a new one.
They don't cost that much I recall and besides, you're handling one the most important parts of the car here.

It looks like the 'pop'-sound way have come from the MC afterall, as it was 'dry' when being applied.
Perhaps the booster is still be alright.



Tom Atkinson

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #48 on: May 07, 2008, 06:02:00 AM »

The more I think about it and with some good advice I'm leaning back towards having someone do this.   This is after all the most important part of the who kit and kaboodle.
 
I may be able to have someone in Clearwater work on it but that's  2 1/2 hours away.  Anyone know anybody in Ft. Myers Florida I could use?
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Steve

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #49 on: May 07, 2008, 07:52:15 AM »

Home Plate is your first choice. . . .
 
Chris is an AARP card totin, Geritol drinkin, old Mopar Guy.
 
Man, do we have some war stories.  He'll do you well.  But insist he put his own sorry, lazy ass on it himself.  You can quote me.
 
POLARACO2008-05-07 12:53:02
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James Brown Jr,

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #50 on: May 07, 2008, 10:22:53 AM »

well guys thats a nasty mess if you ask me.
and my brakes rub BAD. If i let it idle at 25MPH i can come to a stop after a 75 or so feet.
maybe Calipers are a next option for me(other that the wiring problems underhood)
 
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Tom Atkinson

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #51 on: May 08, 2008, 03:56:59 PM »

I just can't get the idea of working on these myself out of my mind.  The thing stopping me from doing it myself is replacing the steel tubes along the frame and body.  Is there a trick to this?  I'm not sure I see how these slide in and out.
 
Will a shop redoing them put the steel back in or is it replaced with rubber tubes?   It they are going to just throw in rubber tubes then I'm really leaning towards doing it myself.
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Herman

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #52 on: May 08, 2008, 11:29:31 PM »

I want to do it yourself, just do it.
A brake-shop will use steel lines. But using copper will work aswell, just make sure it's installed vibration free.

Doing it yourself with steel or copper-lines can be done, but you'll need a Good brakeline tubingbender and doubleflare-tool for this.

But you can somewhat check if your lines need to be replaced by disconnecting one end, and spraying brakeclean in the other end and see what comes out.

Stitcherbob

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #53 on: May 09, 2008, 08:23:10 AM »

NO copper lines for high pressure brake line.....only double flared seamless steel or stainless steel!!! I can't stress that enough. If you don't want to or can't make your own lines, go to a reputable shop. Midas and similar shops do brakes and have to follow all of the rules or else they could get in legal trouble, so I would trust a name shop.

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Steve

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #54 on: May 09, 2008, 09:56:03 AM »

Sheeesh Herman. . .
 
Never use copper or compression fittings on brake lines.  They are steel only with a double flare.  All it takes is one good shot on the peddle to blow it apart.  Remember, an automotive brakes system can see up to 45,000 PSI.  Copper and compression is rated to 3000 burst.
 
Tom
You'll have to get under the car and trace all the brake lines down the body and inspect them for rust.  If you see a line with allot of caked on rust/kinked, or looks like it has an oil stain, replace it.  Chances are, you won't have too much rust in that climate.  Brake hoses are a definite. 
 
There is more than just brake lines.  There are wheel cylinders.  You may be able to still buy new ones.  I am pretty sure the shoes are still available and the spring and self adjuster kits.
 
The list of tools is short.  Let's start a new thread on that under brakes.  we're getting off topic here
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Tom Atkinson

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #55 on: May 09, 2008, 12:40:55 PM »

Agree on the new post.  I'll start that after we wrap up the engine and distributor stuff.
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Tom Atkinson

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #56 on: May 21, 2008, 07:17:39 AM »

I stopped by a shop yesterday where I see them working on a lot of older cars.   Very nice looking ones I might add.  They just redid a General Lee Charger, are working on a 68 Challenger and have experience with MOPAR.
 
The guys say they can look over the car and let me know a cost to repair.  They said they can inspect  the steel lines and see if they need to be replaced.  More than likely they said they just need to be cleaned out and they can do this.   If they need to be replaced they can put the lines in and pretty confident where they are from the factory. 
 
They also told me since they work on a lot of older cars they also have a supplier where they can get the correct parts for the older cars.
 
So my question is what should I ask to see if these guys know what they are doing?  Also if I have them do the work what should I make sure to ask them to do?  Someone mentioned something about anti vibration mounts.
 
I'm trying to keep the car as stock as I can.
 
Thanks
 
Oh one other thing they didn't make it feel like they were trying to get me in the shop just to make a buck.
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Paul

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #57 on: June 17, 2008, 06:42:08 PM »

I am the new guy on the block, and this is my first technical post, I believe.  I am presently working on replacing brake lines on a 1963 Chrysler New Yorker, and I have lots of brake experience, having done this for a living for many years.  Replacement of the brake lines is worth doing even if they look good.  An engine that stops, just leaves you stranded on the side of the road.  If the brake lines fail, then the consequences can be a bad crash that can lead to injury or fatality.  Replace the brake line, and all the rubber hoses.  It is cheap insurance.  Also, have all wheel cylinders rebuilt or replaced, along with the master cylinder.  Then if you are still using a single master cylinder with all drum brakes, have the system filled with DOT-5 Silicone Brake Fluid.  It is on the expensive side, but you will never have to worry about rust, or other problems associated with DOT-3 or DOT-4 glycol based fluids.  Unless you are racing this car, you will not have a problem with the Silicone Based Brake Fluid.  The glycol based fluids have an affinity to absorb water, and for that reason, they must be changed every 2 years to avoid problems.
Junk2008-06-17 23:48:24
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Tom Atkinson

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #58 on: June 19, 2008, 06:19:58 AM »

Might be in luck on the brakes.   I had Kaw-Liga running in the garage last Friday when a neighbor I know came up and started talking with me about her.  We got to talking about the car needing brakes and he said he use to work on these for fun and knew all about the brakes.  I asked if after I get the house remodel done would he like to help me with this and he said he would.   
 
So if all goes will with the remodel in 4 months I'll be tackling the job with this guy.  
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Steve

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How do you test a brake booster???
« Reply #59 on: June 19, 2008, 12:55:45 PM »

Paul
 
That was a very good response. 
 
Tom
 
POLARACO2008-06-19 17:56:57
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