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Author Topic: MBONB  (Read 4006 times)

Stitcherbob

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MBONB
« Reply #15 on: October 07, 2007, 03:13:39 PM »

Dan-
those parts I have are for a 64 Dodge 880....oh well. Maybe someone else here can see if his parts buddy has a listing for them (I think he drives a Polara....hmmmmm)
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Leaburn Patey

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« Reply #16 on: October 07, 2007, 04:09:23 PM »

IIRC,all my 318's liked 10-12* timing with the 2bbl.If there are caps on the idle/air screws,knock em out so you can fatten up the mixure to compensate the higher timing to prevent ping.
Open up the dizzy and check to make sure the mechanical advance weights are not stuck.Use a vacuum guage all the time you are making adjustments and diagnosing the suspected vacuum leak.
All the mid 70's Mopars I had or worked on had the time delay thingy on the air cleaner..They never worked and were bypassed.
Hook up the vacuum advance to the carb directly and see if there are any difference in idle.
As Steve mentioned,block off the EGR,you don't need it.
While you are at it,double check the kickdown throttle rod at the carb.Adjust as needed.
Why?
If it is not set up properly it can make the car sluggish.
Why?
Not only is it for the 3-2 downshift,it also regulates the trans fluid pressure.If it is out of adjustment the trans fluid pressure will be out of whack.
This directly affects your MPG as well.
I don't know how many times I had seen guys rebuild a carb,jam it back on,and complain it  still drives like crap when they totally ignore the kickdown rod. 
When set up properly with a good running 318,1st is good at WOT and will shift to 2nd at about 40,2nd is good all the way up to 70-75,then it should go to 3rd.Shifts should be crisp and smooth.
Around town,with a moderate foot Drive should be done by 30 MPH.
If it comes in too soon,it will be sluggish.
Hope this helps!
CBarge2007-10-07 21:20:28
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1973 Satelitte wagon
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Dan Cluley

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« Reply #17 on: October 14, 2007, 12:51:59 AM »

Well the good news is, once I got the fuel sender (with new sock) back in I've driven about 500 miles without major incident.  :)   The gas gauge seems to be dead on accurate.  (the sender did seem to stick a little down around the bottom 1-2 gallon or two, so I'll have to watch that, but don't usually let it get that low)
 
With a little more experience, I don't think it's as slow as originally stated.   With the rather loud exhaust, I really wasn't using nearly as much of the throttle as it seemed.    It does have a little hesitation/stumble part way into the throttle, and this is much more noticable when the engine is cold.   The choke seems to be working properly, so I'm guessing the carb needs some attention.  (considering the cruddy old gas that get left in it, I can't imagine why?  )
 
Until I get the tach situation worked out - http://www.moparfins.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=173
I'm not going to spend too much time messing with tuning, so I haven't cleaned the timing mark off.  It is either set at 0 or 10 BTC, (I can see the mark, just not read the numbers)  The vacuum and mechanical advance are working.
 
Shifting feels ok, but I will definitely check the kickdown.
 
Meanwhile...
 
Replaced the cap/rotor, plugs and wires.  Passenger side plugs are great, between the MC and the heat stove, the drivers side are possibly worse than the 383 in the Chrysler.  Didn't help that the old ones seemed to have been installed by Jocko the Ringling Bros Strongman...  15" breaker bar to get plugs loose?
 
Replaced those bad bushings.   It'd be nice to have a hydraulic press in the driveway, but I was able to do it with the 1/2" threaded rod and sockets/pipe fittings trick.  Looks like there is a little play in the pitman arm, so that's next, but it feels much more stable over rough pavement.  At some point, I want to add a sway bar.  This thing rolls WAY more than the Chrysler.
 
The leak in the exhaust has gotten worse.  Talked to my local guy, and as I suspected,  Fabricating a new Y pipe would actually be more than putting duals on.  So should happen later this week.  Does $250-300 seem reasonable?
 
Most of the floor patching is done.  I REALLY wish I had the patience, equipment, and mentor that CBarge has.  (If you guys weren't 10 hours away, I'd be stocking up on beer bribes  ) so my work isn't too pretty, but it is plugging the holes.
 
New wiper pivot seals in, and replaced the broken plastic bushing/connctor things in the linkages.  Replaced the non-broken one too, just as soon not have to work with that  mess again any time soon.  New blades, and I've got working wipers.  Yay Me. :) 
 
All the windows have been adjusted/lubed, and go up and down pretty nicely. :)
Front doors open/close and lock/unlock smoothly.
Right rear door, which didn't open at all from outside, now usually does.  The mechanism that the handle pushes on got bent at some point, and I have almost got it back right.
I need a new can of spray lithium lubricant  (and possibly a prescription for lithium pills  )
 
Current issue is temperature.  The gauge moves a little as the engine warms up, but never really goes past the very bottom mark.  Coolant is at the top of the rad, and nice and green.  There is some in the overflow tank, but haven't seen the level change.  So I'm not sure if the gauge has a problem, the sending unit has a problem, or maybe the thermostat is stuck open?  I do get some heat from the vents inside, but don't know how much to expect. (don't know when/if the heater core has been flushed either)
 
Still no more pictures, but the only thing I've changed outside is replacing the broken markers, and replacing the missing antenna.
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Steve

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« Reply #18 on: October 14, 2007, 05:11:32 AM »

I assume the engine is getting hot?  If not, maybe a thermostat is in order.  That gauge might just be a sending unit..  Simple enough
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Leaburn Patey

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« Reply #19 on: October 14, 2007, 05:57:34 PM »

Quote from: D Cluley
 
The leak in the exhaust has gotten worse.  Talked to my local guy, and as I suspected,  Fabricating a new Y pipe would actually be more than putting duals on.  So should happen later this week.  Does $250-300 seem reasonable?
 
The dual exhaust price is a deal--go for it!! Get 2-1/4" as mentioned. 
Sounds like the accelerator pump in the carb is dried out from sitting.Easy carb to rebuild and adjust.
 
Dan,thank you very much for your kind words.I am humbled.
 
You are doing just fine with your car  no matter how you do it. Another fine Mopar being saved and enjoyed..
 
Beer bribes not necessary..but will glady accept!! LOL
 
I drove to Joisey six hours..Heh what's another four?? No sweat.. 
CBarge2007-10-14 22:58:30
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Dan Cluley

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« Reply #20 on: October 20, 2007, 11:14:42 PM »

Carb -  Getting a working choke pull-off, has actually taken care of most of the problem.  It probably wouldn't hurt to clean/rebuild, but it has moved down the priority list. 
 
Looking down the throat, when I move the throttle lever, 2 streams of gas shoot out, so I assume the accelerator pump is OK, right?
 
Kickdown seems to be right, as it matches what Lea said . 
 My morning drive includes a weird uphill entrance ramp that is two lanes that merge into one just before the highway.   Had a Crown Vic crowding me from behind, while the other lane included a flatbed truck loaded with a full basement worth of cement blocks.  So I floored it.  Went into 2nd at exactly 40 (tiny chirp from one of the tires too) and 3rd somewhere between 65-70.
 
Timing - Ooops   I was assuming the marks were similar to the Chrysler 383.  Once I got it cleaned off, discovered it was set at 10 degrees AFTER tdc!!  Adjusted that to 10 before, and the idle smoothed out quite a bit.  Haven't really noticed much difference while driving though. 
 
Any suggestions for the easiest way to work with the distributor holddown bolt?  Between the vacuum advance, the coil, the bulkhead, the oil pressure switch, and the heater hoses, it is almost impossible to get a wrench in there. 
 
D Cluley2007-10-21 04:18:19
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1965 300 Convertible
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James Brown Jr,

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« Reply #21 on: October 21, 2007, 01:33:31 AM »

when it comes to the distributor bolt?? the only thing i can say is make room, try removing the coil and other items in your way them put them back once the bolt on the distributor is tight.  well it's nice to see it coming together. good luck Dan
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Steve

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« Reply #22 on: October 21, 2007, 06:12:09 AM »

Quote from: D Cluley
 
 
Any suggestions for the easiest way to work with the distributor holddown bolt?  Between the vacuum advance, the coil, the bulkhead, the oil pressure switch, and the heater hoses, it is almost impossible to get a wrench in there. 
 
There are special distributor wrenches available, but usually don't work well.  I loosen it with a short 1/2 box wrench, and then use a 3/8 drive swivel socket and a long extension.  Ofcoarse, the advance will be right where you don't want it.  But that works for me.  Actually, I use a 1/4" drive set now.  I found the thinner shaft works better, and you can tighten the dist plenty.
 
Just a note on that, once you have that socket in place. .  .don't take it off until you set the disty bolt.  You'll hate yourself
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Leaburn Patey

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« Reply #23 on: October 21, 2007, 07:21:53 AM »

I have been using an old Snap-on offset closed end box wrench om my Dippy's distributor.Short yet but I can only do a 1/4 turn at a time.But it works... I slide the coil out of its bracket leaving the wires attached.
 
No ping?? Try 12* and see how she reacts.It should give you better stoplight take off.If there is ping,fatten up the mixture a 1/4 turn at a time.If that is no good,drop her back down to 10*.
I assume no break up when at WOT on the on-ramp,so there is still room for some fine tuning.
How is your vacuum?? Did you use a vacuum guage at all?
Good to know that the tranny is working properly!
Now let's get the 318 purring like a cat and roaring like a lion!! LOL
CBarge2007-10-21 12:27:45
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Dan Cluley

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« Reply #24 on: November 03, 2007, 02:14:56 AM »

First off, a rant about the jerk who owns Mason Muffler & Brake.
 
 I was ready to do the exhaust last week, so stopped by the shop on Thursday morning to set up a time to do it.  His sign says open 8-6 M-F.   After I waste half an hour, he finally rolls in at 8:35.  Tells me he’s booked up for the day but Fri looks ok.  So I tell him I’ll bring it by first thing in the morning.  Friday, he shows up at 8:45.  Points to several other cars out front and says I’ll have to leave it for the day.  Those were dropped off over night and it’s first come, first served.  -- “I stopped taking appointments a long time ago, most people don’t show up anyway.”
Considering the number of other shops in the area, I’d love to know how he gets away with that attitude, but anyway….
 
Went back to a shop in Lansing that did work on the convertible a few years ago.  Rolled out 3 hours later with a complete set of duals.  Due to cost and design consideration, we went with 1-3/4” pipe from the manifold down past the T-bars (the drivers side is really tight clearance) and then 2” all the way back.  Not quite the recommended 2-1/4”, but still should be a significant upgrade from the original 1-7/8” single pipe, no?
Everything seemed good at first, but once things warmed up (and the trans mount is pretty tired, so I think the motor moves around a little more than it should, I was getting contact with the drivers side T-bar.  A little work at home with the prybar and that’s taken care of.  Still getting a little noise on the drivers side, but I think it’s a slight leak in the manifold or the manifold/head surface.  Definitely much quieter than before.  J

 
 
Got the coolant temp questions figured out.  Both the sending unit, and the thermostat were bad.  Ok, the thermostat wasn’t really bad, just vandalized.  The housing was in place, but somebody pulled the guts out of it. Still haven’t had to deal with temps below freezing, but with outside temp in the low 40’s after 15 minutes of driving, it was like an oven in the car.  J

 
 
Removed the trim from around the front and rear windows, and got the last of the vinyl top bits off.  Metal seems to be ok around the windows, but there are a couple of rust holes in the outside of the C-pillar (right below the welded seam)  Not sure how much more good weather we’ll have, so for the moment, I just used a wire wheel to grind off the crapper filler job they did over the seam (the A-pillars, didn’t get any at all!) and get to bare metal around the holes.  Hit it with Rust-converter, primer, and spray-bombed the whole top white.  Eventually will re-do the filler to cover the seams, but at least it’s protected.  Even though it’s definitely a 20 ft paint job, it certainly brightens up the look of the car.  J
 
 

 
 
 
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Arlen Vander Hoff

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MBONB
« Reply #25 on: November 03, 2007, 05:36:19 AM »

Rooking gooood Dan!!! I have an 8 track player if you want it!!!
Now you just have to come up with The Best of Sam and Dave!!!
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Steve

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« Reply #26 on: November 03, 2007, 05:41:56 AM »

Lets all go up and pile into his driveway so he has to stay late, then just leave.  LOL
 
Aren't independant business men wonderful?
 
I'm one.  I go to work late every day.  But then again, I work later than anyone else does in my outfit. . .  But I do have people there on time.
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James Brown Jr,

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« Reply #27 on: November 03, 2007, 06:56:02 AM »

nice job on  the top Dan. it's alot like the job i did on Susan for the winter
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Dan Cluley

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« Reply #28 on: November 03, 2007, 08:05:16 PM »

The other thing I did this week was switch the tires around.  Not sure what the long term plan is, but for the winter, I have put the 4 fairly new tires from the Chrysler onto the Dart.  It came with a mixed set of 205/75 tires, one of which has a slow leak, and several have balance issues.  The 300 wheels have 215/75 which seem to fit fine, and have a nice set of whitewalls.  I don’t think the Dart wheels are wide enough to put 215s on, and they look a little wide in the front, so will probably eventually get a new set of 205s
 
Once the new tires were on, I took it for a long enough drive to check the accuracy of the speedometer/odometer.  It’s 100 mile round trip to Grand Rapids, so I went and got dinner at the Steak and Shake on 28th street, and came home.  J
 
Compared to the mile markers on I-96 the odometer is off by 2%  which I can certainly live with.
 The speedometer is significantly slow however (I was suspicious of this already)  at an indicated speed of 60mph, the car is actually going about 67.  Since the needle is steady, I’m assuming the head unit itself needs cleaning/lubrication?






D Cluley2007-11-04 00:06:33
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Leaburn Patey

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« Reply #29 on: November 03, 2007, 08:31:00 PM »

The exhaust sizing is Ok given the space constraints.The 2-1/4 was on my B body and I forgot the A is a smaller car.
Now you can really tune the 'teen....
With a vacuum guage,timing light,etc.
First,set idle air mixture screws.Turn them in a 1/4 turn each at a time.Watch your vacuum.As it goes down as the mixture gets richer,bring the idle up to 750/800
Check the vacuum reading.
Set the timing up to 12 *
again read vacuum.It should be at about 18 to 22 inches.
Bring idle back down...
Some times by listening to the idle,one mixture screw may have to be in/out more than the other.Make sure the vacuum is reading steady and not jumpy.
Adjust the mixture screws until she is smooth as butter.You really have to listen and read the vacuum guage at the same time.
With the duals,the higher timing and richer mixture will wake her up!
Go for a road test.If ping,drop timing a degree,or fatten up the mixture a little more.
This should give you more torque and increase MPG.
With the increase in flow of the duals,the 'teen will run lean,thus why I am recommending fattening her up just a little.She should also run cooler as well.
I wish I was there,Dan.I could do it in an afternoon..
How does she sound?
What type of muffs did you choose?.
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1968 Newport Custom project BOAB
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2006 300C HEMI!!

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