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Author Topic: '69 Monaco Wagon - Back to it...  (Read 774 times)

Bob Schaefer

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'69 Monaco Wagon - Back to it...
« on: July 26, 2013, 08:03:27 AM »

Greetings from the Chicago area, once again. It's been awhile since I've posted, but now that I have my wagon back, I thought I'd say hello.
Since I had to sell her, I have realigned my priorities on this project.
Currently, the focus will be on driveability/reliability, and down the road, I will consider structural integrity and durability, then appearance.

So, the friend who bought the car did a bunch of work to make it driveable, and it is. The main concern, on getting it back, is cooling. I knew when I first had it, that it tended to run hot, and my buddy confirmed this. This is primarily evident on really hot days, or if the AC is running. I don't typically run the AC, so that's not a huge concern. There are no coolant leaks, so far.

As an initial step, he ran a couple of wide hoses from the snorkels on the air cleaner, out to either side of the radiator support, in order to provide more outside air. This helps some, but I am interested in a more comprehensive solution. My main concerns are the size of the radiator, and the condition of the coolant path within the engine. The main radiator hoses and thermostat have been replaced, and I think my buddy said the stat is a 160 degree one. This is why I am more concerned about what else is going on, if it has that stat in it, and it's still too hot. I haven't driven it much myself, since I only got it back this week. I will drive it around some, and see what I think.

My first plan is to get some cooling system flush, and do that a couple of times. A question here is, do I worry about dislodging something, and making things worse? After this, if I am still running hot, I may consider an aluminum radiator with greater capacity. I would really love to find a big 4-core OEM radiator like I had in my Polara wagon, which came with the towing package, feature A35, I believe. I don't figure it will be easy to find, if it's even possible, but we'll see. Either way, if I end up removing the radiator, I would definitely replace the water pump, even though it isn't leaking, since I don't know if/when it was last replaced.

Anyway, thank you again for all the support when I had to give up my wagon, and I am glad to be back amongst my fellow C-Body enthusiasts.

Bob

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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
383 4bbl, Dual Exhaust
Electronic Ingnition

dana44

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'69 Monaco Wagon - Back to it...
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2013, 09:34:16 AM »

Start with the flushes. If something starts leaking, it needs fixing anyway. Make sure the shrouds are good and no air can bypass the front of the radiator support area, little holes add up to reduce the amount of air passing through the radiator. Many times there are rubber flaps on the front edge of the hood above the radiator shroud that is missing or damaged, allowing air to pass over the radiator, so check that. Running a couple degrees too much advance and a tad lean on the carb can also add to the heating issue.
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68 Charger 440 6pac/02 PT Cruiser/63 TR4 2.5 5spd/39 Nash Business Coupe/95 Dakota Sport 3.9 5spd/81 Z28/ USN Retired

Bob Schaefer

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'69 Monaco Wagon - Back to it...
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2013, 09:45:56 AM »

Thank you, Ed. These are things I wouldn't have considered. Makes sense, too, because my friend did step down on the carb from a nicely tuned Edlebrock 750 to a 600, which is what came on the HP 383's back in the day. He had been working on the timing and getting the carb tuned, so we will continue on that. I'll also check the shroud, and make sure the air flow is right.

Thanks again, as always... Bob

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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
383 4bbl, Dual Exhaust
Electronic Ingnition

dana44

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'69 Monaco Wagon - Back to it...
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2013, 10:26:51 AM »

For the carb, a quick verification that the two needles are sitting right around 1.5 turns out, and that the metering rods are not too fat on the top half may be a biggie, too fat on the bottom half of the needle will make it run lean, not allowing enough fuel into the carb. There is some good Edelbrock tuning videos and guides on the net, and the ultimate is to run a probe into the tailpipe to make sure it isn't going too lean, which will make them run hot. Three degrees of advance, or a vacuum advance allowing too much advance can be the distributor side of this equation, big blocks don't like fast or a lot of advance, that's just historical. You could do a quicker check on this by blocking the vacuum advance after disconnecting and see what that does to the temp, and if the distributor has the hex end, it is adjustable, an allen wrench in the end adjusts it, but I can't remember which direction is faster, which is slower, so pop the cap, adjust, suck on the vacuum line to see if it is faster or slower, get it to slow down a bit. Remember, total advance at crank and (figuring) 34 degrees at the mechanical advance (#17 stamped on the underside of the spring attachments), means 4 at the crank is about the most you should run on a stock distributor. That and a slower vacuum advance will help if the airflow stuff is good (and the flushings).
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68 Charger 440 6pac/02 PT Cruiser/63 TR4 2.5 5spd/39 Nash Business Coupe/95 Dakota Sport 3.9 5spd/81 Z28/ USN Retired
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