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Author Topic: Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco  (Read 5236 times)

300rag

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #15 on: September 08, 2012, 03:50:58 AM »


Quote from: POLARACO
....  I went in to get the camera and forgot why I went in.  Sat and watched TV instead.

Onset of "Old-timers" disease You aren't the only one.


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1965 Chrysler 300 convertible 413/ 4 speed ; 1969 Monaco 3-seat wagon 383/727 ; 1969 Monaco 500 2-door 318/727

Steve

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #16 on: September 08, 2012, 04:44:29 PM »

OK  More progress and the Finale!

The guy at the paint shop I use is 70 years old.  He's done a few Mopars in his days too.  He showed me his Coronet which he just took off the road last year because of a tired trans.  He had the exact same problem in the rear window and like Polaraco, sat out side 24/7.  I remember him doing this car some 20 years ago.  It was a Jersey shore car, so salt was always around it.  What a rot box it was.  But Cecil got right into it, making most of his own panels.  Today the chrome is dead, and the interior is tattered, but the car has almost 200K on it.  It's a 383 4BBL Sedan with air and odd things like power windows and cloth interior. That's why he bought it.  Funny I can remember him doing that car vividly when I can't remember allot of other history.

Anyway There wasn't a spot of rust anywhere.

This is what he told me to do.

Grind out the areas and back away from the areas which have surface rust and craters.
Wipe with acetone to get any greases out.
wipe the area with a rust converter, making sure it is well into the craters.  Let dry.
Next, sand the surface to get the residue off.
Prime the whole area with a 2 part etching primer.  I use the DuPont.  (They didn't have etching primer 20years ago)
Fill the area with a non talc compound, like Gorilla Hair or Equal.  I like the USC stuff but can't remember the name of it now.
Sand, shape, feather accordingly
Apply a sealer primer.  After 4 hours you can wet sand it.  Don't cut into the metal.  If you do, you need to reapply the primers.
Paint it before 24 hours.  If it's after 24, you need to make sure the whole thing is wet sanded, at least with a 400, 600.

In my case, the area is not scene.  abd the edges will be painted over anyway.  Once the window is in, I can paint the roof.  But the paint needs to be at least 36 hours old before the glass goes back in.  In the case of the window channel, he said not to make it too thick.

It's expensive, but it makes allot of sense. 

So I have been following that procedure and the job is completed.  I brushed in all the layers so that it will be fully cured Monday.

This was the last 2 pics I took.  The rains came and cancelled the last pics until tomorrow.  All this will be feathered out and maybe primed by tomorrow night.

I had to write everything down several times and check each function off so I wouldn't forget.  If Cecil is right, Iwill never see rust there again.  Of Course there won't be a vinyl top either.









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Brian

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #17 on: September 09, 2012, 08:04:31 AM »

Great advice from Cecil, and you Steve...Thank you!!  I will be jotting this procedure down in my black book...so I can access it easily when needed.
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Steve

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #18 on: September 09, 2012, 04:48:25 PM »

Thanks Brian.  Cecil give great advice.  Just don't ask him to mix you any paint.   I swear that man is color blind.

After the last picture I finished the feathering, and re-shot the etching primer.  It cures quickly so I put in all new molding clips.   Just as I was starting to clean up, ie. blow out the interior, we got another down pour.  I managed to get the cover on the car before it got too bad.  But now I have to wash everything inside. 

I'll get into this next.  Once this is done, everything will go quick.  This damage is from the top as well.  Similar damage on the other side, but not as bad.









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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #19 on: September 09, 2012, 07:30:22 PM »

Looking good Steve.
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Tom Dawson

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #20 on: September 10, 2012, 12:09:53 PM »

I remember when you did the car the first time I said to paint the roof.


Tom



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Steve

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #21 on: September 10, 2012, 05:55:24 PM »

I remember too Tom.  But got talked into putting a top on.  This is why I never put the top on the Virgin.


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Brian

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #22 on: September 11, 2012, 02:32:35 PM »

Did you know at the time the car was going to be outside almost 24/7?  If so why would you have even considered a vinyl top?
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Steve

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #23 on: September 11, 2012, 04:08:28 PM »

Yeah I did Brian.  But I never envisioned it giving me so much trouble so soon


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Steve

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #24 on: September 13, 2012, 07:08:33 PM »

Gee  I may have this roof painted by Sunday.  Right now it's primed with the sealer.  I have a couple of spots to fix up.  And I'll prime it again.  I'll be wet sanding with 600 tomorrow, and I have that hole to repair, which is just a small spot.  I'll blend the primer and then hit it Saturday morning before the buds come out.  Provided it's not too windy.







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Brian

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #25 on: September 14, 2012, 01:48:39 PM »

Looking good Steve.  I have to do the roof and hood on the crw before the weather turns ugly too.
 
Btw...The heater/ac stuff is home, looks good.  I think I'm going to convert it to cable operation though.
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Steve

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #26 on: September 14, 2012, 03:00:28 PM »

Boy I can't win.  Now I know why we put a vinyl top on it.  To hide all this hale damage!

Anyway, it is what it is and is going to stay this way.  I spent all day on the left half of the roof and stuff is still showing up.  I keep glazing out the lows and it never seems to end.

Anyway, I did manage to get this done right.











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Steve

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #27 on: September 15, 2012, 01:57:57 PM »

Nuff Said

This is several hours old now, but as usual, as soon as I mix the paint, the winds start and that butt wipe kid shows up to mow the lawn.    Dirt is limited though.  I soaked down inside, outside, all over the place.  The dust started to fly after everything dried out.  32% humidity today so it dried fast.









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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #28 on: September 15, 2012, 05:51:22 PM »

Dirt buffs out, right?
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Steve

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Repair body rust the correct way. Polaraco
« Reply #29 on: September 15, 2012, 06:52:29 PM »

Yeah  I'm becoming an expert at it.  The saving grace here is it's not metalic.


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