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Author Topic: Still Have Engine Starting Issues  (Read 1045 times)

Gary Buckley

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Still Have Engine Starting Issues
« on: April 18, 2012, 04:51:48 AM »

Hi again everyone.I have a 318 engine (1985 era)installed in my 41 chrysler coupe and I am having starting issues still.I replaced my key switch and my control module ,which was new with another new one  and I still have the same issue happening.Car decides not to start.I have fire on both sides of the ballast.If I touch the control module wire to power while turning engine over it will kick.If I do that enough times it will start and once running it will startup every time instantly.What happens when I was turning the key off and on to get the same effect as touching the power wire on my module to power is that the car will kick when the key hits the off position and when I turn the key back on the engine will actually fire without pushing the starter button.Oh by the way I have left the original starter button in the car so the key and starter are seperate.If the rotor is pointing at a cylinder with open valves it will fire up through the carb.If not it will actually turn the engine over a slight amount .Any ideas as to why it will fire when applying power to the module and also when turning key off..The distrubutor and module are both new.I have checked my ground and all connections.When it works ,it works excellent.Any chance that the pickup in the distributor would cause this?Also I am using a coil that I used with my points distrubtor.Is there any difference in coils for electronic ignition?Thanks again for any input.


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Still Have Engine Starting Issues
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2012, 05:59:47 AM »

Same problem as before, only different, the starting when not turning the key stuff is usually associated with a wiring problem with feedback of some sort. Placing power to both sides of the ballast resistor and all that stuff, will kill the hall effect. The reason for the ballast resistor is to drop the voltage down to 9.0-9.6volts to prevent if from burning out.  What coil are you using? Is it the original 6 volt coil? Although there are tons of different coils and all that, no difference between points and electronic ignition coils.
 
Now, what car/model/year did you use as a wiring diagram when you installed the new engine? Something like a Dodge Dart in a 1972 would be an excellent choice being simple and all that may help, get it right once and cleaned up looking good. You can still have the pushbutton starter and all that, which is just a matter of those wires being correctly routed.
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Steve

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Still Have Engine Starting Issues
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2012, 11:42:46 AM »



Obviously, shaking the wire says you either have a bad piece of wire (Not unheard of) or connection somewhere.  Back track it and put a jumper on the beginning and see.  Maybe that NOS switch was laying around for a reason
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Gary Buckley

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Still Have Engine Starting Issues
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2012, 02:52:25 PM »

I am not applying any other power to the low volt side of the ballast.I apply power to the 12 volt side via the ignition.I only checked the power on both sides of the ballast while turning the engine over and I do indeed have the appropiate voltage.There is not a wiring issue with the car.One wire from the key switch which is seperate from the starter button to the 12 volt side of ballast.I also have the hot wire from the module to the 12 volt side of ballast which is the way it called for in the instructions..There are no other wires involved except the ones associated with the distributor and the coil  .This car works excellent except when this situation occurs.I don"t even have the main power attached to the starter.My coil is a 12 volt coil of course.Is there a difference in 12 volt coils from a points distributor and a electronic one?Thanks for the input


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Gary Buckley

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Still Have Engine Starting Issues
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2012, 03:01:24 PM »

Oh I forgot to mention.I am not shaking my wires to get the car to start.I have removed the 12 volt wire for the module from the 12 volt side of the ballast and I am simply touching it on the 12 volt side of the ballast while turning the engine over.It gives the same effect as turning the key off and on while turning the engine over with the original starter button on the dash.I have the module and the ballast mounted beside each other on the firewall and I simply reach in the drivers window and push on the starter button.The only time I have no power on the ballast is when I turn the key off.


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