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Author Topic: Engine starting issues  (Read 1936 times)

Gary Buckley

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Engine starting issues
« on: March 28, 2012, 08:52:23 AM »

Hi Guys I am back with a really weird one this time.I just happened to be playing with my new gas pedal in the old 41 the other day and when I went to start the car it kicked and then no go.You can turn it over till the cows come home.I checked for fire at the ballast resister and I do indeed have power on both contacts.Oh by the way for those that don't know my car , I have installed a 318 engine in it with electronic ignition.I have used the original key switch and the original starter button.I have been running the engine for about 2 weeks now and no issues.So getting back to the no start.I tested for fire while turning the engine over and I still maintain fire on both sides of the ballast resister.I even went as far as running a jumper wire to the resister and still no go.I changed out my coil and no go.Finally I sat in the car and while turning the engine over I switched the key off and on real fast and when I am in the off position for a spit second the engine fires even though I lose my starter because the key has to be on for it to work as was when I had the flat head in the car last summer.I experimented with this a few times and if I was fast enough to get it back in the on position it would start and keep running.I then can shut the car off 1000 times and it will fire everytime instantly.So then I decided to create the same scenario that got me in this pickle at first.I pumped the gas about 2 to 3times and then proceeded to start the car.As soon as I hit the starter button the engine kicked but wouldnt run.I played with the key again for a while and got the same results It sometimes takes a few tries to make this work.When it did work It would fire as soon as the key was moved towards the off position and like I said before if I am fast enough and turn it back on it will run and once running It will start excellent again any amount of times .I can create this same scenario over and over and it is always the same .I tried holding the pedal down thinking it was fuel and I tried pumping and no way .You have to play with the key even though I have fire at the ballast resister.Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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Engine starting issues
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2012, 09:33:39 AM »

Sounds like you need to look at the wiring to the ignition switch itself, there may be corrosion in there and playing with it gets it going.
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Steve

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Engine starting issues
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2012, 10:20:36 AM »



Did you happen to check to see if there was spark to the distributor while doing this?  Yeah I know, who wants to get whacked.  LOL  It's not imposible to be a bad box.  Those orange boxes are known to go bad fast sometimes.  I went through 3 of them before I hit a good one.  Cost me a cam though
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Engine starting issues
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2012, 10:25:18 AM »

You have spark and she runs, so it isn't on the engine side of things, it is before everything. Wires, connections, electricity can be fooled to pass through corrosion as in this case, so it is going to be something off the wall that is limiting the circuit. Remember the key has a power wire that bypasses the ballast resistor for an extra "boost" of juice and then when you let off the key from start to run it goes through the ballast resistor, which is how sometimes when the ballast resistor the engine runs only when the starter is spinning but dies afterwards. This is similar, but farther along the circuit.
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Gary Buckley

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Engine starting issues
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2012, 12:27:36 PM »

Ok I am back.The key switch has one main wire coming out of the back and goes to the firewall on this car and actually connected to the bottom of the original coil.First time i ever saw a coil with a + connection on the bottom but thats what it was in 1941.I utilized this same wire and spliced it outside the firewall and sent one to the 12volt side of the ballast resister and the other to my Orange module.While I was playing with this one wire on the back of the key switch the car would start but afeter a while I noticed a spark so I removed the silicone someone had put on the back of the switch and there was bare wire touching the body of the switch.I removed the key switch and used another universal one I had in my box.I wired it up so as to still use the original push button on the dash for my starter .I turned the engine over holding the hot wire from the old ignition switch on the ignition hot and nothing .so while I was turning the engine over I touched the hot wire to hot off and on and it would fire up or at least kick and if i put it on and off enough times it would stay going but unlike before it wouldn't start unless I used the same method so now something has changed since I removed the key switch.I went out on the firewall and removed the tape from where I spliced the module to the hot wire coming from the original key switch and ran a jumper wire to the ballast resister.I then ran the module wire to the jumper and presto Fired right up.I ran a new wire into the car to the key switch and everything now is a O k .Not sure why I could create the scenario by flooding the engine but Now I can pump all the fuel I want and it will still fire up.I defintely have a  faulity key switch which I have to replace as the universal one won't fit into the factory hole and I want to keep the dash original.Thanks for the troubleshooting guys.


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Engine starting issues
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2012, 12:42:28 PM »

Works for me.
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Steve

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Engine starting issues
« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2012, 01:06:30 PM »



Sounds like it's time to rewire the car.
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Gary Buckley

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Engine starting issues
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2012, 02:31:11 PM »

I just did  LOL.




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Steve

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Engine starting issues
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2012, 03:09:31 PM »



Sorry.  It read like there was some old wiring you were dealing with
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Engine starting issues
« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2012, 07:33:16 PM »

Splices, especially ignition splices, need to be soldered and shrink wrapped to prevent corrosion and moisture from giving you problems. Remember, the ignition wires are direct powered, non-fused, power wires which produce heat, and non-soldered connections can arc in a crimp and the heat then becomes a spot for moisture to form easier and quicker than a terminated wire on both ends. At least you found the problem so you can fix it right.
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Gary Buckley

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Engine starting issues
« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2012, 01:59:28 AM »

Polaraco the key switch did have its own built in wire that runs to the fire wall and indeed it is old and  someone has previously patched it up at the back of the key switch with clear silicone to stop it from arcing on the switch body .I still cant explain why I could create this scenario everytime by pumping  fuel into the engine causing the engine to not start on the first kick and then having no fire .I suspect it is exactly as Dana stated because I indeed put splices from the module and ballast resister to the old wire coming from the key switch.When  I removed the key switch the problem was still there. I had cut the wire from the back of the old switch and utilized it with the new key switch not knowing that the wire itself might be the culprit.After running a new wire from the module and the ballast resister to the new key switch it works great now.When I said that I just wired the car LOL' I was making a joke on me not you.Thanks again.


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Steve

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Engine starting issues
« Reply #11 on: March 29, 2012, 10:51:42 AM »



I hate it when I call it out of the box.  LOL
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Gary Buckley

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Engine starting issues
« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2012, 10:48:20 AM »




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Gary Buckley

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Engine starting issues
« Reply #13 on: March 30, 2012, 10:50:16 AM »

I lucked in yesterday on ebay 45.00 shipped to Canada .NOS  I didnt really need the exact one with the built in wire but the price is right and my lock and key will fit as its the same part number as mine


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Engine starting issues
« Reply #14 on: March 30, 2012, 11:03:35 AM »

That's a pretty cool looking piece. Glad you found it.
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