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Author Topic: Newbie here....  (Read 4664 times)

Jay

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Newbie here....
« Reply #15 on: November 06, 2011, 11:10:53 AM »

must be. I have never seen a Linkage like this. I have been with my uncle working on his 1970 Cuda and they were different than what i have.
 
 
I just got back from talking to paint guy and another guy to rebuld my carb since its gummed up pretty good and is a blackish coloring on the hull of the carb... so hes gonna rebuild that, and im gonna get the intake off and clean it up and put a new kit in. He says he may have a linkage since he has a 1965 chrysler sitting at his farm place that is way behind repair and says he thinks hes got the same linkage and is gonna try to take it off and give it to me. i offered a price but he wouldnt take it but give it. so we'll see if its the same bc he wasnt sure if it was but thinks it may be the same kind i have.
 
Paint guy is gonna to paint the outside, and interior  of the door frames and when i do my overhaul, hes gonna paint the engine bay for me.
 
 
birdman6520012011-11-06 16:12:23
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Steve

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« Reply #16 on: November 06, 2011, 12:26:11 PM »



We have a bunch of cat lovers here
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Jay

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« Reply #17 on: November 06, 2011, 12:37:34 PM »

i live on a farm. i got cats and a dog. cats are good to have around.. at my place.. i hardly see any mice. at the farm place, theres tons of mice running around... no cats.
i drive truck during the week... a cat is idea for me bc i dont have to be here to let the cat out to go to the bathroom... plus i do LE work on the weekend. so outdoor dog, i have ONE indoor cat, and a few outside.  
 
birdman6520012011-11-06 17:40:00
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« Reply #18 on: November 06, 2011, 02:22:44 PM »

Question I have is, how does one get the square metal holding the square rubber damper off the swaybar without cutting the thing off and then rewelding after back on the swaybar, unless you have two good linkages on a bar and you replace the whole thing?
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Jay

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« Reply #19 on: November 06, 2011, 04:03:06 PM »

Quote from: dana44
Question I have is, how does one get the square metal holding the square rubber damper off the swaybar without cutting the thing off and then rewelding after back on the swaybar, unless you have two good linkages on a bar and you replace the whole thing?






 
 
you have to take the WHOLE sway bar off and slide them off and then install the new bushings. there is a split down the one side of the bushing so you can squeeze it through. The Sway Bar KIT is included with all the new bushings for linkage AND end of the swaybar that is bolted down. no welding is done, just takes time than to be a simple fix like aftermarket style. But my problem is, i have a broken LINKAGE.  you can tell that the car is higher on my driverside and the passenger side is solid and tight... so when i take a turn one way, it sways. i need a linkage or im gonna be all over the road.
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« Reply #20 on: November 06, 2011, 04:58:21 PM »

I know the bushing is cut side to side, and I will bet good money you won't be able to put the new bushing on and then slip this metal clamp and linkage over it. Like I said, we went through this a couple months ago and it took some real engineering and welding to get a new one to work.
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Steve

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« Reply #21 on: November 06, 2011, 06:59:59 PM »



Drill out the welds on the clamp and spred it.  Then bolt it back together
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Snotty

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« Reply #22 on: November 07, 2011, 02:22:18 PM »

Quote from: birdman652001
Quote from: dana44
Question I have is, how does one get the square metal holding the square rubber damper off the swaybar without cutting the thing off and then rewelding after back on the swaybar, unless you have two good linkages on a bar and you replace the whole thing?






 
 
you have to take the WHOLE sway bar off and slide them off and then install the new bushings.
 
That only works if your swaybar has a round end.  If yours does, good for you.  The ones on my '70 have a flat end which is why you have to cut them as Ed was saying.
 
Nice car, good score, and welcome!
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Jay

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« Reply #23 on: November 09, 2011, 02:18:19 PM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Drill out the welds on the clamp and spred it.  Then bolt it back together





 
 
I am thinking JUST that... this way i can replace them later. however i need to NOT break the other one and measure the length of depth i can go bc i think they have to be set to a certain height. (sorry took so long to reply, I drive truck so i finally got home tonight)  Once I have the length set, I can put in a metal tube to a height and put it in with a better grade bolt than the one that was in there.
 
 
BTW, got the parts in the mail yesterday. Motor Mounts were from PRONTO  and sway bar bushings from Ingalls Engineering.
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Jay

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« Reply #24 on: November 09, 2011, 02:24:15 PM »

Quote from: Snotty
 
That only works if your swaybar has a round end.  If yours does, good for you.  The ones on my '70 have a flat end which is why you have to cut them as Ed was saying.
 



 
 
I think its rounded. If you look at the first pic in the Linkage sway bar, in my post, you can see it goes into another bushing. I would assume its round. but i cant tell at this point. it may be flat too.
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« Reply #25 on: November 09, 2011, 03:21:42 PM »

The bushing is square. The clamp on it has to be cut to get it off, the clamp is designed to hold the square bushing so as not to slip.  The end has a thru bolt and yes, is round, but you will not get this square bushing off the swaybar without cutting and rewelding the clamp on it. If the bushings are loose or move in any way whatsoever, they last about five miles and are beaten to death, the swaybar is exerting several tons of pressure in a turn and a bump in the road is again, several tons of pressure each time, and things don't last very long under those circumstances unless they are firm and fixed.
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Jay

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« Reply #26 on: November 09, 2011, 03:36:55 PM »

Quote from: dana44
The bushing is square. The clamp on it has to be cut to get it off, the clamp is designed to hold the square bushing so as not to slip.  The end has a thru bolt and yes, is round, but you will not get this square bushing off the swaybar without cutting and rewelding the clamp on it. If the bushings are loose or move in any way whatsoever, they last about five miles and are beaten to death, the swaybar is exerting several tons of pressure in a turn and a bump in the road is again, several tons of pressure each time, and things don't last very long under those circumstances unless they are firm and fixed.



 
 
well it lasted this long 106,000 miles and finally one snapped. I would assume if I get it fixed right, it should last me a long while.
 
do you suggest I go aftermarket?
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Steve

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« Reply #27 on: November 09, 2011, 04:30:53 PM »



They could easily be nade with a metal brake and some 1/8" bar.
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« Reply #28 on: November 09, 2011, 04:47:08 PM »

Didn't we do this to a 77 New Yorker or something, for the rear swaybar?
 
Use the length of the original unbroken one so it is the correct length, threads on the nut end to the frame and a lip so the outer washer doesn't slip on the rod, flat 3/16/3/8 inch flat plate with holes drilled on each side of that so a round bushing with one flat side can be clamped to the swaybar.  I will have to look for the post we had going on for this, I think it was attkrlufy that started it, and I remember putting a picture of what to do in there (thanks for the scanner Steve).  You can look it up and find out what worked and what didn't work, it took two tries to get it right.
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Jay

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« Reply #29 on: November 09, 2011, 04:55:52 PM »

Quote from: dana44
Didn't we do this to a 77 New Yorker or something, for the rear swaybar?
 
Use the length of the original unbroken one so it is the correct length, threads on the nut end to the frame and a lip so the outer washer doesn't slip on the rod, flat 3/16/3/8 inch flat plate with holes drilled on each side of that so a round bushing with one flat side can be clamped to the swaybar.  I will have to look for the post we had going on for this, I think it was attkrlufy that started it, and I remember putting a picture of what to do in there (thanks for the scanner Steve).  You can look it up and find out what worked and what didn't work, it took two tries to get it right.
 
 
well they do make linkages for 77 on new yorker. my grandpa has a 78 New Yorker Broghram (spelling) and those are totally different than to the 66 linkage. so im not sure a 77 is gonna be the same.. perhaps it is.
 
tmr im gonna see my retired LEO guy and see what he found on his mother's farm he bought years ago since he said he has a 68 or a 89 chrysler there and see what kind of link he found.  if this is going to be a headache project, i may just do what Steve said, and call the just suspension and get an aftermarket for both front and back and get them done and over with. then when the motor is getting over hauled, i will have the frame and engine bay repainted so it will look good.
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