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Author Topic: 1958 DeSoto heater core leak?  (Read 6174 times)

Steve

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #15 on: October 19, 2011, 11:26:17 AM »



You could epoxy it, but it's going to have to be super clean.  If it goes that far, may as well solder it.  I'm thinking the Brass rotted away though
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Brian

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #16 on: October 19, 2011, 12:19:14 PM »

Can you post a pic of the valve...maybe someone can find an aftermarket unit that would work?
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Brian

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68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Steve

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #17 on: October 19, 2011, 12:58:59 PM »



I know a guy who rebuilds them.  Let me try to find the info.  It's in the trunk of the Diamond
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steve sclafani

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #18 on: October 19, 2011, 01:18:08 PM »

Bob,
I had a similar problem on my 60 Desoto. I thought I was lucky when I found an NOS Heater Control Valve.  The new valve leaked after 50 years on the shelf. Turns out Napa sells a rebuild kit. I do know there were two manufacturers, one is Ranco. The kit doesent consist of much. It's probably harder to get the valve out and back in than rebuilding it.
JC Restoration does good work but they are pricey$$$
Good Luck,
The other NJ Steve
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Robert Rottman

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #19 on: October 19, 2011, 04:26:58 PM »

Quote from: thrashingcows
Can you post a pic of the valve...maybe someone can find an aftermarket unit that would work?


 
This is a robertshaw valve. I'll have to call NAPA to see if they can get a rebuild kit for it. I did notice that once I mess with it though JC Restoration won't accept it as a core.
 
 
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Steve

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #20 on: October 19, 2011, 06:21:54 PM »



You need to get it rebuilt.  I should be dropping the car down tomorrow so I can get into the trunk.  That's where the valve is with his address/email.  He's in Canada
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Brian

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #21 on: October 20, 2011, 05:33:09 PM »

What is up with the long wire with the coils on the end...A/C temp sensor and actuator?  Looks like a bit of a complex piece.  If it does have an A/C control then you might be better off getting it rebuilt.  If you are looking for function over appearance then I'm sure you could make something work.



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Brian

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68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #22 on: October 20, 2011, 06:45:08 PM »

Doesn't look too complicated, either the stem is leaking or the connection is leaking. The little tabs hold the cage for the spring and open/close mechanism. I see a roll pin that most likely holds a spring and plunger on the inside so pressure is on both sides of the plunger (spring outside). When the cage is taken off, the plunger and stem should also come out, looks like the cage holds it in place, alignment tab there on the outside end. A plumbing or air conditioning store should have a seal that can hold the pressure and temperature. The big question is whether or not the stem itself is pitted and that is where it is leaking, which would have to be made out of a machined stainless bolt the size of the existing threads. It is probably a spring on the inside, cap on the end and an E-clip, like a fuel accelerator pump.
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Steve

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #23 on: October 20, 2011, 07:15:47 PM »



I started to dig out the infor for you. . .But I have to pull another 100 pounds out to get to the info for you
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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #24 on: October 20, 2011, 08:16:29 PM »

OK, so instead of a spring inside so it has equal tension on both sides so the simple single wire push/pull dash knob can move it in both directions, it has a thermostat inside it. No big deal, not worried about it, worried about it leaking, where, and an ability to seal it. Not even going to touch the thermostatically controlled spring in it at all.
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Robert Rottman

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #25 on: October 21, 2011, 07:18:37 AM »

Thanks for all your thoughts on this guys. I appreciate it. I was confused about the thermostat probe too. This is a non-AC car by the way. The curly coil at the end goes in the heater core box. I guess it overrides the setting on the manual controls when the engine coolant reaches steady state temp? At least...That's what a guy at work said when he looked at it.  I still don't quite get it though because the heater control valve seems to be normally open...(I can blow through the valve until I push the valve lever which is what the slide bar would do as I push the slide bar towards "warmer")  This would shut the flow of hot coolant off to the heater core and wouldn't cooler air be blown in then?  Maybe that's when the thermostat kicks in and opens and closes the valve with small adjustments...I don't know. My pea brain was fried too many times when I was young and dumb I guess....
 
Anyways...second and more important thought that I hope I can get an answer to...because I want to get the proper mix of antifreeze in the car this weekend and button the car up for the winter. Couldn't I just put in a 5/8" OD brass on/off valve from the hardware store in line to the heater core for now until I decide on what to do with this original valve? Then next spring...I could leave the flow ON to get heat in the car and when summer comes I could shut it OFF? It wouldn't hurt anything to totally shut it off  would it? I know that's what the original valve does...but I'm thinking the original valve may never shut off ALL flow...It wouldn't put a strain on the water pump would it?...or create leaks elsewhere?
 
Thanks, Bob
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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #26 on: October 21, 2011, 08:41:39 AM »

If you are going to go to that extent, get yourself one that is vacuum operated or manual operated and simply adapt it, simply put, placed in the heater line. There are vacuum operated ones that start around 1973-1975, just have a vacuum switch to allow the flow to start and shut off, or a mechanical one that uses the existing cable, just make a bracket for it, cover the hole.  No AC makes it easier because you could go back to the late 60s to early 70s when they had manual controlled valves (Rockauto still carries a few, GM trucks would work for around $12) and you could manually control it just the same, just get rid of that faulty expensive piece. 
 
Your manual valve you talked about would be fine, pressure wouldn't be an issue, but a little flow through it prevents the heater core from collecting sediment or rusting out from stagnant fluid or an air bubble.
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Robert Rottman

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #27 on: October 21, 2011, 09:18:55 AM »

Yeah...That's probably the best thing to do...A few of the other guys have suggested that I should do this already. Perhaps a control valve from our fine C-bodied cars would work. I'll have to start really looking for one...actually I did see some already but I found that they were quite expensive as well (on e-bay). Obviously, I can't get it for this weekend so I think I'll just hook the hoses straight up to the heater core for now to get the antifreeze in it for the winter.
 
Thanks!
 
furyfever2011-10-21 14:36:53
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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #28 on: October 21, 2011, 10:01:29 AM »

Definitely hook it up direct. As long as there is a heater door to block off the hot air, or allow you to direct the hot air where you want it to go, like defrost, panel or floor, not having a valve only prevents you from shutting the flow off.
 
Try Rockauto.com  
 
I looked at several of them, vacuum and manual control, my post talks about it, most are vacuum operated now, but they do list like 1965 C10 truck valves that are still manual, or around a 1972 Dodge Challenger, after thinking about it, would work. It actually has two hoses in and out, but only one in and out is controlled and the bottom connection could be cut off, not neede and not controlled at all.
 
Bet this would work:    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=815513
 
dana442011-10-21 15:13:22
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Steve

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1958 DeSoto heater core leak?
« Reply #29 on: October 21, 2011, 03:46:10 PM »



I have a C Body unit, but I won't be up in Willet until 10 or so on Sunday
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