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Author Topic: No start....  (Read 7313 times)

R. Dave Carr

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« Reply #225 on: February 08, 2012, 07:53:46 PM »

It's there, on the inside radius of the bend.  Not a huge kink but one nonetheless.
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1968 Newport Convertible

R. Dave Carr

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« Reply #226 on: February 08, 2012, 07:57:21 PM »

Well I need to pull back and regroup.  I'm not able to pull the tank here, so I need to figure out where to do it, and what I will do about the tank and lines.  I didn't expect this, but I was afraid of it happening.
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1968 Newport Convertible

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« Reply #227 on: February 08, 2012, 08:19:50 PM »

Until you get the gas tank out, put a couple filters in line and burn some of the gas up.  The fuel pump to carb line isnt' very long and could be bent easy enough, so you can drive around in her a bit more, keep an eye on two or three filters in line with each other, get the almost full tank of gas empty, get close to empty and then by then you should have a location to pull the tank and fuel line. Should probably be warmed up enough to do it without a heater in about a couple months, but at least she will run from point A to point B under her own power. Afterwards, pull the top and floats, see what is on the bottom of the carb bowl, clean it out afterwards.
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Dan Cluley

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« Reply #228 on: February 08, 2012, 08:42:27 PM »



Obviously pulling the tank and getting it cleaned is the ideal solution, but this may get you down the road for a while.
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1965 300 Convertible
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R. Dave Carr

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« Reply #229 on: February 09, 2012, 07:10:31 AM »



40 bucks to boil it out, 100 bucks if it needs resealed.  Pays to have friends in radiator shops.
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1968 Newport Convertible

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« Reply #230 on: February 09, 2012, 08:07:27 AM »

Yes it does, and it would guarantee not to be an issue in the future.
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R. Dave Carr

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« Reply #231 on: February 09, 2012, 08:22:30 AM »



Far cheaper than a new tank.  Who do you guys get new fuel lines from?
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1968 Newport Convertible

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« Reply #232 on: February 09, 2012, 08:56:08 AM »

You may do best to make your own, you can get the fuel line in large coils, make your own ends to reduce finnings, but Steve may know whether or not Justlines makes them for this model.
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R. Dave Carr

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1968 Newport Convertible

firedome

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« Reply #234 on: February 09, 2012, 09:10:31 AM »

Bill Hirsch makes an excellent tank sealer if you need to buy
some.  You can pull the tank, throw in some chain or large 1"
gravel, shake it around for a long time rotating as you go, dump out
the chain/gravel, then follow directions for sealing. I've done this
for years with boat gas tanks. Works great.

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Bill

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« Reply #235 on: February 09, 2012, 09:37:54 AM »

I will say this, mine runs much better since I resealed the tank.  I'm sure the new gas and lack of rust helped.  I have a hard cold start if the choke isn't slammed shut.  But once it's going it's fine and no more stumbling or running rough.
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« Reply #236 on: February 09, 2012, 10:01:28 AM »

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R. Dave Carr

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« Reply #237 on: February 09, 2012, 01:04:59 PM »



My radiator guys says he doesn't like to reseal them unless there's a lof of corrosion going on there.  What's your take on leaving them bare inside?
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1968 Newport Convertible

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« Reply #238 on: February 09, 2012, 01:30:29 PM »

Originally gas tanks are galvanized/zinc coated inside and out. I personally would be conderned if it didn't have the same type of coating to prevent what happened from happening again.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it, other opinions wanted, too.
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Steve

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« Reply #239 on: February 09, 2012, 05:54:47 PM »



I've used the Eastwood stuff.  It not only coats, it also does something to the metal
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