MoparFins

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

We changed servers, which is good, and lost all passwords, which is bad. See above.

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: B & R body swaybar poly bushing list (F&R)  (Read 1469 times)

attkrlufy

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 244
    • View Profile
B & R body swaybar poly bushing list (F&R)
« on: May 25, 2011, 08:23:20 AM »

This is just an FYI post for anyone adding/upgrading the front and rear sway bars + associated bushings in their '73-'81 B & R body cars.  I hope this is able to save someone some time as it was maddening to go through to find all this out.  But, man.....the upgrade was totally worth it.

Front:
This concerns an upgrade to the largest front sway bar Mopar offered for these cars - the 29mm bar (1 1/8"), and the associated bushings that work.  If you upgrade to (or have) a smaller bar, either 21mm (13/16") or 24mm (15/16"), you won't have problems finding poly shaft link bushings that fit.  Energy Suspension supplies them.

Sway Bar Shaft Link Bushings:
I could not find anyone that makes a poly bushing for a 29mm (1 1/8") bar that fits the factory Mopar link.  You will have to modify the link to accept a universal bushing - but any machine shop can do this quickly and cheaply (~$50).  More on that below.  Energy Suspension makes a universal poly bushing w/ clamp to fit, #9.5112 (~$28)

Sway Bar Link Isolators:

Energy will give you 4 pair (8 total) + washers in part #9.8105 (~$18)

Arm Strut Shaft Bushings:
You have two options with this. 1) The Moog K7064 (~$9) fits, but it's rubber.  2) You can get a poly bushing for this, but there's some waste involved.  Energy Suspensions offers this bushing for the arm strut shaft in poly AS PART of their B-body front sway bar rebuild kit for a 15/16" bar, #5.5142.  Be warned, there is no split in this bushing, so you either have to split it to get it on the strut, or remove the strut and slide it on.  Plus, you'll have unused parts when you're done.

Rear:
The rear sway bar for B & R bodies is 19mm (3/4").  If you're going factory, make sure you get the leaf spring hangars along with the links, clamps, and screws.

Sway Bar Shaft Link bushings:
As with the front bar, I could not find anyone that makes poly bushings to fit the factory link.  You have three options: 1) Keep the factory link and modify it to make it servicable to accept rubber repro bushings.  2) Get new factory links and rubber bushings as a set.  3) Modify the factory link to accept universal poly bushings.
If you want to go with 1 or 2, Kanter is your place: #SL18248 for bushings, #1828 for new links.
If you go with 1, you will probably have to go to a machine shop to make the bushing servicable.  They are fusion welded, not bolted, so it will need to be split - ~$35 at a machine shop.
I went with 3, and modified the factory links (exactly like the front links, cost ~$50 and is explained below) to accept Energy Suspension universal poly bushings, #9.5106 (~$20)

Sway Bar Link Isolators:
These isolators are the same as for the front link, so if you purchase the 8 bushing set from Energy (#9.810) you'll have enough for both F&R links.

Sway bar Shaft Bracket Bushings:
The brackets will accept a universal style poly bushing - the same bushings from option 3 above: #9.5106.  You will have to use the clamp provided from Energy as the factory clamp is too small to go around the bushing.

Leaf Spring Pad Set:
When putting in a rear sway bar, you have to swap out the leaf spring hangars for ones that accept sway bar links (standard hangars do not).  So you might as well replace the leaf spring pads with poly ones since you're already there.  Energy Suspension supplies 'em as a set for L&R - #5.6106 (~$55)

Leaf Spring Bushing Set:
If you have factory oval-eye leaf spring bushings, you can also have these replaced L&R in poly from Energy Suspension, #5.2110 (~$70)

How to modify the F & R links to accept universal bushings:
Honestly, it's a bit more $$ up front if you can't do it yourself, but if you plan on keeping your car, this is the way to go as the universal style of bushing is super EASY to get in polyurethane (and this is where the manufacturing industry is headed).
1) Cut off the clamps at the base of the shaft, to keep its length factory correct.
2) Fusion weld a flat piece of appropriate-grade metal on the link shaft where the clamps used to be with the following dimensions:  4 1/2" L x 1 3/8" W  and 1/8" thick.  Have holes drilled in both ends 1 1/2" from center (total 3" apart) to accept the bolts used to clamp the bushing to the new base.
3) That's it.  Super easy.  If you can't do it, a machine shop can in a day.

Hope this helps and I hope this gives a sense of the cost involved.


Logged
1979 New Yorker - 360 4v, 2.71:1 rear, factory moonroof, factory road wheels


firedome

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 3644
    • View Profile
B & R body swaybar poly bushing list (F&R)
« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2011, 05:57:42 AM »

Man you're really putting in some thought/energy/time/$ into the NYer!  The results will justify it all in the end... and thanks for some nice to know info for B/R owners. 

Logged
Fuselage C-Body Power!!!

Jason Goldsack

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 990
    • View Profile
B & R body swaybar poly bushing list (F&R)
« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2011, 06:08:09 AM »


We would still have one if my brother didn't wipe out a 1979 Camaro with it when he ran a red light in 1989... 


1965Windsor3612011-06-05 11:08:24
Logged
Jason

(Eileen)1965 Chrysler Windsor, 361/727/2.76 16.49 @ 86 mph

Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

© 2008-2014 Steve Hobby • © 2015 Allpar, LLC