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Author Topic: F-ing Engine  (Read 1729 times)

Steve

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F-ing Engine
« Reply #30 on: May 03, 2011, 12:39:33 PM »

ahhhhhh   I'm trying to remember, but I know someone who does have one
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Jason Goldsack

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« Reply #31 on: May 03, 2011, 12:44:29 PM »

Now that would be a cool old machine to own!!!

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Jason

(Eileen)1965 Chrysler Windsor, 361/727/2.76 16.49 @ 86 mph

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F-ing Engine
« Reply #32 on: May 03, 2011, 02:01:38 PM »

Have you checked the condition of the distributor or are you just guessing? Not to rank on you or anything like that, but you have to check a few things before we can truly try to identify the problem and fix it. The distributor is in a nice location to work on, and you can get to the screws to remove the points plate, but check the play to see if you can alter the points opening by moving the rotor side to side and front to back first. If so, and if you wnat the original distributor, replace the bushing top and bottom in the case. They are about a buck each and they tap out and tap in, problem fixed. If not, pull the cap, remove the rotor, and the end of the shaft has a felt oil pad. Remove it and there is a wire spring. Remove it (needle nose pliers, long and thin), undo the wire to the points at the coil, undo the two screws for the vacuum advance canister on the side of the dizzy, then the two screws holding the points plate to the housing. All the screws are on the outside of the distributor housing, I think you can get all of them without pulling the distributor. PUll the points plate up, undo the vacuum advance rod (it's kind of fun), and after this is done, look to see if you have two little springs inside the housing. The two springs that work best for the 361 with almost all builds, stock to heavy street performance, 2 and 4 bbl, is one spring that has like 8-10 tight windings, spring about .015 thick wire, all  the windings touching themselves. This is the fast increase in advance spring which gives good advance curve from idle to around 2500rpm. It isn't so fast as to ping, but fast enough so as not to bog. The other one is best as a heavy spring, about .028 thick spring wire, about four or five turns and a space between them. The loop end will actually have a little bit of play in it, this is the higer speed advance which kicks in around 2500rpm and should max out around 3200-3400rpm. Big blocks, no matter which ones they are for Mopar, do not like too quick advance like a small block, total advance in the 35-37degrees is all they like, more than that and they lose mileage. Vacuum advance too quickly is also bad.  twist to see how easily they can spring out and in.
 
Now, if you remove these two springs with a screwdriver underneath the end and snap the spring off the knobs, lift the collar off the shaft and if it is sticky and dirty it will not function properly. Pulll it off and clean it out good, you can use engine oil (a swipe) to lube it up, or white lithium grease, or even graphite bearing grease, just a little smudge where you have a pivot point, the two boomerangs (counterweights for the mechanical advance) have pins they hold onto and can be cleaned and greased. Now, you don't want grease to fly all over the place, you don't need a lot of it, less is more. Last thing you can do is look for a stamp number somewhere on the T collar you pulled off, it gives the mechanical advance you have. It most likely is a 14 through 17, which equates to 28-34 degrees of mechanical advance. Take this number and subtract it from 38 (the max mechanical advance) and this number is how much you can put at the harmonic balancer for initial advance, for best results that is.
 
 
After everything is cleaned, checked and reassembled, put two drops of engine oil on the felt pad that goes on the end of the distributor shaft and you are good to go.
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Steve

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« Reply #33 on: May 03, 2011, 03:14:41 PM »



He was looking at replacing the whole ignition
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Leaburn Patey

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« Reply #34 on: May 03, 2011, 03:21:48 PM »

Jason,Mike66chryslers has the recurving machine.He pops up here once in a blue moon but he is mainly on the Dock.
he is in the Toronto Area so you can ship it to him.PM him.
I got a guy here locally that is also awesome on Mopar dizzy recureves,but he has been busy lately.
 
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Jason Goldsack

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« Reply #35 on: May 03, 2011, 03:29:56 PM »

I have a local Mopar wizard too.. he recurved this one back in 1997... I might take it back to him to give it a one over..

I looked at the instructions for my Mallory Hyfire 1A and I can only use it on a points dizzy.. :(

Instead of a MP box I would probably put in an MSD box.. Had good luck in the past..


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Jason

(Eileen)1965 Chrysler Windsor, 361/727/2.76 16.49 @ 86 mph

Steve

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« Reply #36 on: May 03, 2011, 03:47:25 PM »




Electronic ignition eliminates alot of problems.  Especially performance issues.  The quality of todays points just isn't there anymore
POLARACO2011-05-03 21:19:59
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Jason Goldsack

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« Reply #37 on: May 03, 2011, 03:56:26 PM »

I agree... 

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Jason

(Eileen)1965 Chrysler Windsor, 361/727/2.76 16.49 @ 86 mph

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F-ing Engine
« Reply #38 on: May 03, 2011, 04:34:24 PM »

OK, sure, fine, complaining about this and that and not knowing what to do, now he does, so yes, I agree, electronic ignition does make it all better, and if the distributor itself isn't warn out too badly, a Mallory Unilite system fits in the distributor and has three wires that come out of it. No special caps, rotors or anything, all inside and in the place of the points and condenser. Whole distributors are good, too.
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Jason Goldsack

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« Reply #39 on: May 06, 2011, 04:24:46 AM »


Hopefully picking up an Ignitor I for the dizzy next week... looks simple enough to install.. $89.00 is a heck of a lot cheaper than a whole new Dizzy...

It says you can hook it to the White MSD point wire on an MSD so it should trigger my Mallory Hyfire I.

1965Windsor3612011-05-06 09:25:17
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Jason

(Eileen)1965 Chrysler Windsor, 361/727/2.76 16.49 @ 86 mph

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