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Author Topic: Project list / resolutions for 2011  (Read 1000 times)

attkrlufy

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Project list / resolutions for 2011
« on: January 31, 2011, 10:29:02 AM »

Sitting here in frozen upstate NY has me dreaming of the warmer weather SURE to come two months from now.  I've been day-dreaming of what I want to accomplish this year once the thaw comes and I was wondering if anyone else has the same yearnings.

This summer I resolve to:

* Remove the Lean Burn computer, hardware, and wires and add the Chrysler electronic ignition (orange box). *bonus* if I can add dual snorkel air cleaner, too.
* Re-arc / shim rear springs to get 1"-2" lift in the rear
* Add rear anti-sway bar
* Add thicker front anti-sway bar
* Finish restoring / add factory tranny cooler
* Polish and seal / wax aluminum rims
* Reposition wipers properly & fix wiper speed selector arm
* Fix nuisance electric issues: intermmittant driver side tail-light socket, add new driver side turning lamp and socket, fix driver side opera lamp wiring.
* Address various (unending) trim/paint/appearance issues

If I can get all that done by late September I'll be a happy man.  I've already got most of the parts I need and should be able to do it on my own.  Except the 1st item.  I'll need help running/adding the new wires as I've never done that before.  Yeah, Roger.  I'm looking at YOU. 


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1979 New Yorker - 360 4v, 2.71:1 rear, factory moonroof, factory road wheels


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Project list / resolutions for 2011
« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2011, 11:32:38 AM »

You can even do the new/updated leaf spring stuff yourself, we have talked about it several times and it is about a three/four hour job. I would also suggest replacing the front and rear bushings in the car, easy to do actually without having to remove the springs all the way.
 
For the leaf springs, block the body up off the wheels, rear hanging free, then jack the rear itself at the center to relieve weight off the springs. Undo the shock/U-bolts/shock plate on both sides, raise the rear up and off the springs. Use a C-clamp to squeeze the springs near the centering pin, undo the center bolt, loosen the C-clamp (make sure the clamp is a big one), leave the main spring that has the bushings in it alone, replace one of the longer springs with one that is heavier (like out of a truck, make sure they are the same width), replace two if you want, add one or two in between the originals, whatever you want to do, or even (which I did for the wife's Camaro), get one spring new from a truck company (was one in town that builds leaf springs), with an arc one inch greater than what my example was, and the rear is great now.  To reassemble, use a longer bolt to guide them back together with the C-clamp, then pull the long bolt out and replace with a proper length one (adding springs may make you do a new one). The center bolt is a regular grade 5 or 6 bolt with the head ground round, grind to fit the axle pad, and you are done.
 
For the bushings in front, undo the front bracket (body still jacked up, jack holding weight off rear end), drop it down, undo the bolt, push the old bushing out, new one in. Once the fronts are done, do the rears the same way, it really improves the handling more than anything else (other than the stiffer springs).
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Steve

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« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2011, 11:34:43 AM »

You are better off bringing in cold air than putting in a dual snorkal.  Why draw in engine heat?  The manufacturers took forever to learn the cooler air is better. 
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attkrlufy

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« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2011, 01:00:40 PM »


Quote from: dana44
You can even do the new/updated leaf spring stuff yourself, we have talked about it several times and it is about a three/four hour job.
Oh I remember.    I've got your hints saved.  I'm going to see if I can't do the "adding the extra leaf" procedure myself.  I don't think I'll need the bushings - the springs only have 4-5K miles on them.  And while they're off, that's when I'm going to add the antisway bar.

Now, if THAT doesn't give me the lift I want, then I think I'm going to take the car to Elmira Spring to get 'em re-arced.  We'll see.

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1979 New Yorker - 360 4v, 2.71:1 rear, factory moonroof, factory road wheels


Jason Goldsack

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« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2011, 01:54:01 PM »

My goal is to get into the 15's without opening up my motor..

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Jason

(Eileen)1965 Chrysler Windsor, 361/727/2.76 16.49 @ 86 mph

Stitcherbob

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« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2011, 02:09:58 PM »

15 minutes....no problem!

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They treat me like dirt! I'm better than dirt! Well better than most kinds of dirt. Maybe not as good as store-bought dirt.Thats got nutrients & stuff

Stitcherbob

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« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2011, 02:11:03 PM »

or maybe Jason's pizzaria is trying to beat Domino's Pizza deliveries by half!

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They treat me like dirt! I'm better than dirt! Well better than most kinds of dirt. Maybe not as good as store-bought dirt.Thats got nutrients & stuff

Steve

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« Reply #7 on: February 01, 2011, 02:54:08 PM »

I hope he doesn't drive like a regular pizza delivery person. . .
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Jason Goldsack

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« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2011, 03:37:44 PM »

We don't deliver.. LOL

I do sing "Come on Eileen" song while I wait to see the finish line at the track...LOL


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Jason

(Eileen)1965 Chrysler Windsor, 361/727/2.76 16.49 @ 86 mph

firedome

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« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2011, 07:58:09 AM »

I never replaced Lean Burn on the 79 and 81.. they worked! On the 80 St it had already been done by a dealer when I got it. My 76 GF 400 had LB, it sucked, so I sold it and bought a 77 GF 360 that came factory without it, drove it 10 years. Always glad to offer whatever lame-o help i can however!

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