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Author Topic: Valve Cover Gaskets  (Read 1240 times)

Bob Schaefer

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Valve Cover Gaskets
« on: January 21, 2011, 01:27:50 PM »

I tried searching, but this might be too dumb of a question for someone else to have asked...
 
It's been awhile, and I've never used these Fel-Pro cork/rubber, metal core valve cover gaskets. I bought them when I ordered my new Mopar Performance black ribbed valve covers from Summit Racing.
 
Anyway, I haven't had a car like this for a long time, and I'm not sure if these gaskets require sealant. I used to use regular valve gaskets, and coat them with gasket sealant. These seem to be much better, so I thought it better to ask than to assume, since the folks here have been so helpful.
 
Thanks.
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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
383 4bbl, Dual Exhaust
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Steve

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« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2011, 01:55:43 PM »

Steel core does not require sealant.  Don't over tighten them either
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Bob Schaefer

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« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2011, 05:27:08 PM »

Now that part, I do remember. I had the opportunity to break of a couple on my other 383, so I will be careful. Thank you.
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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
383 4bbl, Dual Exhaust
Electronic Ingnition

Steve

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« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2011, 06:15:26 PM »

1/4" drive or hold the 3/8 ratchet by the hub
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Corey

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« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2011, 08:20:30 PM »

When in doubt use a torque wrench if you have one and torque to specs
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Steve

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« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2011, 09:26:33 PM »

Ahhhh  Common senze.  What are the chances he has an inch pound torque wrench?
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Bob Schaefer

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« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2011, 06:39:58 AM »

Not much chance, yet... I do have a 1/4" drive though. I'll see if I can borrow an inch pound torque wrench. I have the original repair manual, so I shoud be able to lookup the specs.
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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
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Steve

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« Reply #7 on: January 22, 2011, 07:53:42 AM »

It's not needed.  Snug with a slight tweek is all they need.  They don't gold pressure, they just keep the oil in the head
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glen cyr

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« Reply #8 on: January 22, 2011, 10:03:09 AM »

Those valve covers are quite rigid,and if you snug them they will be fine even w/ reg. cork gaskets. The stock ones tended to leak as people would overtighten them and they bent,and you would have to take the valve cover off and manipulate the metal w/ a small tack hammer to straighten them. I'm pretty impressed with the quality of the chrome MP valve covers i just recieved for my 360 build. These covers are so heavy it's incredible. One of the reason they went to a different valve cover on the new magnums was to get ris of those leaks that the LA engines were famous for. They hit that one out of the ballpark!
 
Glen
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Steve

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« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2011, 12:10:33 PM »

The Magnums have to be the tightest engines ever.

I run mine around the Press Glen.  LOL
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Rich

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« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2011, 02:27:11 PM »


Quote from: schaefman
... I've never used these Fel-Pro cork/rubber, metal core valve cover gaskets. I bought them when I ordered my new Mopar Performance black ribbed valve covers from Summit Racing.

 Which gaskets are you using (part number or link available?) I just removed my MP aluminum covers and stuck the stock HP covers back on using some cheapo Victor gaskets from AutoZone (all they had) and now my passenger side one is leaking like a sieve. I'm looking for something better than the plain cork and am curious as to which ones you're talking about.
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Steve

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« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2011, 03:48:54 PM »

I think they are direct connection.  Ahhhhh  Dating myself.  Mopar Performance
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Bob Schaefer

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« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2011, 04:24:34 AM »

In an attempt to answer the question about the part number, I ended up learning, instead, that I am an idiot.
 
The gaskets I got are FelPro, FEL-1646 at Summit. They are the Cork-Lam gaskets with the steel core.
 
Problem is, the gaskets are for a small block, not a big block, and they don't have the same gaskets for a big block. I must have had a brain cramp, not double checking the application.

 
So now I need to decide what gaskets to get. Probably the FEL-1612 rubber coated fiber ones. I have time. I may not even do it until it's warmer. I will be doing my fuel pump, filter, and stainless steel fuel lines, and putting on a rebuilt Edlebrock 750, so I will do the valve covers at the same time.
 
schaefman2011-01-24 09:25:15
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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
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attkrlufy

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« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2011, 05:48:11 AM »


Quote from: schaefman
So now I need to decide what gaskets to get. Probably the FEL-1612 rubber coated fiber ones. I have time. I may not even do it until it's warmer. I will be doing my fuel pump, filter, and stainless steel fuel lines, and putting on a rebuilt Edlebrock 750, so I will do the valve covers at the same time.
You're definitely correct about waiting to do all that at the same time - the less stuff in the way, the easier it is to work from the bottom of your engine up.

As for the gaskets, it's my experience to stay away from anything with cork or fiber.  They will eventually absorb fluid and swell/crack which = leaks.  Stay with synthetic materials and/or metallic gaskets.  I don't know what to tell you re: sealant.  Steel core gaskets don't require it - but at the same time a little goes a long way towards filling in the tiny "gaps" that oil likes to weep through on valve heads and bolt threads.

And don't overtighten the cover bolts!  I have the exact same problem with my SB valve covers described above - I think the thin metal is warped b/c I can't seem to stop oil from weeping around the bolts.  I'm going to tackle it later; when it's NOT -17F outside, thankyouverymuch. 

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1979 New Yorker - 360 4v, 2.71:1 rear, factory moonroof, factory road wheels


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Valve Cover Gaskets
« Reply #14 on: January 27, 2011, 06:25:05 AM »

Hello,
       Hello, I recently had to change my valve cover gaskets for my 99 v4 galant, but now I have a new problem.



1. After replacement, the engine was doing well until i started smelling
 burning oil and later i noticed that there was some splattered oil on
the back of the engine, that look like it came from the back of the
valve cover.



2. As a result of this [I think], my engine now over heats when im on idle [exp. at stop light]



3. After replacing my spark plugs, belts, valve cover gaskets, and spark
 plug cables. My car still rattles at idle [exp. idle at stop light,
while pressing break],

Thanks
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 replacement
side mirrors





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