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Author Topic: ¿¿¿What about oil???  (Read 1609 times)

Rich

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #15 on: November 27, 2010, 08:38:44 AM »

I believe you are are mixing up mechanical with flat - either way, mechanical or hydraulic, if the lifter doesn't have a roller it's a flat tappet and will wear out very quickly without the ZDDP in the oil.
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Snotty

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #16 on: November 27, 2010, 10:47:10 AM »

Yes I am, but, my misunderstanding of your point does not change the fact that I've had no problems.  NO problems.  None.
 
You said you had problems with one cam and that oil.  Perhaps the problem was in your car and not the oil.
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Stitcherbob

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #17 on: November 27, 2010, 12:33:44 PM »




Metallurgy of the cam & lifters, oil pump pressure vs volume, oil gallery routing, engine design, proper break-in, driving style and engine cleanliness all factor into the equation, so what works for Snotty may not work for the next guy.....

Using diesel oil is a recent idea.....my jury isn't in yet on that. Diesel engines need a whole different detergent package to handle soot and parrafin by-products of burning that fuel. It can actually cause a gas engine to lose compression due to cleaning the cylinders too well. Racing oil needing to be changed after short use is ridiculous....the 24 hours of Lemans or other endurance races are where that oil is tested, not one 1/4 mile trip!

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html




stitcherbob2010-11-27 17:45:45
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Steve

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #18 on: November 27, 2010, 01:02:41 PM »

Quote from: Snotty
Yes I am, but, my misunderstanding of your point does not change the fact that I've had no problems.  NO problems.  None.
 

 
 
Not yet. . .
 
Take the intake off and look at the Cam lobes
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Rich

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #19 on: November 27, 2010, 02:06:27 PM »



 Racing oil is supposed be be changed after a 500 mile or so race, not the typical 3,000-5,000 miles you run regular oil. No one changes it after a 1/4 mile, unless they have way more money than brains or their own refinery! Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs make some really nice oil that is fine to leave in you motor for a long  time (a year or more if the mileage is kept low) but it costs $8-10 a quart, while Valvoline Premuim Blue is about $10 a gallon. It will be interesting to see if there is premature bore/ring wear caused by using diesel oil in a gasoline engine, but since most of us don't drive our cars that many miles, it will literally take years to find out. A cam can wipe a lobe in no time....



krautmaster2010-11-27 19:20:39
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firedome

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #20 on: November 28, 2010, 06:03:09 AM »

The reason Castrol GTX may have worked for years with no problems is
that the mandated reduction and now virtual removal of ZDDP only
started a couple of years ago, so only fairly recently has the problem
become really acute... one of the cam mfr's, Isky or Crane or 
someone, started noticing increasingly frequent failures as did engine
rebuilders... it's all over antique car and racing bulletin
boards.  The supposed issues of using diesel formulated oil in gas
engines is essentailly a red herring acccording to oil experts that I
have read. One of the best:

www.bobistheoilguy.com



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Stitcherbob

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #21 on: November 28, 2010, 06:46:08 AM »

Valvoline Racing Oil had detergents and is ok for street use...

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf


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Rich

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #22 on: November 28, 2010, 10:04:30 AM »




 Good to know Valvoline put detergents back in their racing oil--I had read on another site that they did so when they started removing the ZZDp from their regular oil. 
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Default.aspx

http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/products/hotrod/index.html




krautmaster2010-11-28 15:18:07
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Bob Schaefer

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #23 on: November 28, 2010, 10:16:13 AM »

So, pardon my being dense... the last time I changed the oil on a '69 Dodge was in 1985 or '86.. back then, I used just a standard 10w40... that car, I changed it every 2500 miles, and used motor flush every second change... When I pulled the intake to put on the Edlebrock Torker, it had a nice coating of oil, and nothing that even looked like sludge. I miss that motor.
 
Anyway, the current Dodge has about the same mileage that the previous one had when I had to get rid of it. I am looking to change the oil after having run Seafoam through it.
 
So, what you're talking about is just Synthetic oil that is used in diesel engines, right? Does that go for a '69 383, with about 87K, as well? I know the initial question was for an older engine, but I've been out of the Classic Car loop for too long, so I am re-learning everything.
 
Thanks, as always,
 
schaefman2010-11-28 15:18:58
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Rich

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #24 on: November 28, 2010, 10:31:21 AM »

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Bob Schaefer

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #25 on: November 28, 2010, 11:48:08 AM »

Excellent...that is what I just looked up, and you're right... not expensive at all.

Thanks... I'm glad I didn't just go buy a jug of oil to dump in there. I hope the guy I got if from knew something about this...
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1969 Dodge Monaco Wagon
383 4bbl, Dual Exhaust
Electronic Ingnition

firedome

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #26 on: November 29, 2010, 03:51:08 AM »

Yep, that's the oil I've been using for several years now,
excellent  stuff... and cheap. You don't need the synthetic
version of it unless you have a Turbo Porsche or Saab Aero or the like.

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Snotty

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #27 on: November 30, 2010, 08:08:55 AM »

[/QUOTE]


 
Amen Bobby. 
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firedome

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #28 on: November 30, 2010, 12:52:41 PM »

What worked in the past won't work any longer if the zinc isn't there... Physics and Chemistry.

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Stitcherbob

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¿¿¿What about oil???
« Reply #29 on: November 30, 2010, 02:58:08 PM »


just toss in this bottle Snotty and use your oil to your hearts desire....

http://www.zddplus.com/




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