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Author Topic: 62 Chrysler New Yorker Blue Diamond Restore  (Read 23996 times)

Steve

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62 Chrysler New Yorker Blue Diamond Restore
« Reply #60 on: November 21, 2010, 06:27:35 PM »

[/QUOTE]
 
Maybe a 1 1/2" white.  But the full white will be too much.  If I had a nice set of wires, that would be the cats meow.
 
We'll have to consult with our tire exspurt to see what's available in 235's.
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Steve

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« Reply #61 on: November 21, 2010, 06:38:52 PM »

Chris  AZBLACK!  I have a question for you on the hood support.  This is for the education of all of us.
 
I have the hood all straightened and the kinks pretty much invisable in the support.  What I am concerned about is it kinking again since it's weakened in that spot.
 
Do you suggest reinforcing that spot with some additional metal?  I was thinking of making and forming in a saddle and welding it in with some spot welds in the center.  I think you know what I mean.
 
This hood has been a problem since I started on it
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azblackhemi

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« Reply #62 on: November 21, 2010, 06:56:24 PM »

Steve, Since it's been kinked and straightened it will certainly has been weakened. As long as the hinges stay in good operating condition you shouldn't have a problem but somrwhere down the line they are bound to stiffien up so reinforcement is a good idea. Now would be better than later after it's all painted. I would say just make sure you bridge across the entire kinked area .
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Steve

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« Reply #63 on: November 21, 2010, 07:04:25 PM »

Yeah.  .that was the plan.  Do it now.  Since you are the resident pro, I figured I'd get a second opinion.
 
Ironically  One of the nuts I welded in popped out on the other side.  Didn't kink the hood though.  I realized I only got partial penetration on that nut I welded in.  It only hit on half the nut.  The key to those nuts are they need to be attached to the reinforcement behind the the sheetmetal
 
Thanks Chris!
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Snotty

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« Reply #64 on: November 22, 2010, 09:41:11 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Snotty   I forgot about that damage on the front fender, I got it all straightened out.  Miminal amount of plastic.  Other than that, I want my money back!  You said the car was never hit.  I found BONDO in the front fender and one of the body pieces in the front was a different color!  You fraud. . .
 
Wow!  Did not know that.  All I can say is, whoever did the work must have been very good!  That fender was very straight!
 
But, with the damage under the rear fender this news does not surprise me.  I find it rare to get hit in one place and have no other damage on a car.
 
Sorry about the hood.  I'm still pissed that original hood springs and mounts were not there.
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Steve

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« Reply #65 on: November 22, 2010, 05:16:45 PM »

I got on the reinforcing right away so I can finish repairing the hood.  I welded strips on the inside and outside sides,  While doing this, a crack  appeared right where the kink was.  (Yellow circle)  I welded the crack and over laid another strip of metal and built it up so the depression in the support is now straight and built up about 1/8".  I have some flexible filler for plastic bumpers, so I am going to fill it and smooth it with that.  I put a brace on the other side too, but only on the inside.  It's not kinked there.
 

 

 
POLARACO2010-11-22 23:52:49
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62 Chrysler New Yorker Blue Diamond Restore
« Reply #66 on: November 22, 2010, 05:42:49 PM »

I have this friend that is into all the really old rusty stuff from around the farmlands where I used to live up in Washington, guy was great with coathangers and tin cans for small repairs, but anyhoooo, see if this is something you are willing to do and willing to take the time to do it. There are actually two ways to beef this up properly, depending on the amount of work you are willing to put into her as a finished product. One is to remove an end of the bent location (it is a boxed bent metal box as support and strength in design), but by cutting the front or rear of this box off and slip a minimum U channel into the area and then reweld the box, grind her down, good to go. A little time is needed to get the U channel in there so it gives support against as much as possible and not shift around (like a tack weld in a couple spots to hold it), then refit the cut access and grind/fill it and good to go. It could be done so the hood bolts actually go through this channel to change the stress location also.
 
If this is too much, the next one is pretty good, too. Take a slice going aft to forward on the inside of the hood box, picture 21:17 (love military time, wife always asks me what time it is), make it as long as you can, say 10-12 inches at least.  Drill spot weld holes on the opposite side, picture 20:34 top, not bottom, so it will have strength on both sides. Slip a formed piece of .085ish thick flat metal into the slice and reweld both sides. For added strength, do another slice along the bottom side between the two sides and slip another little something in there and weld it, too.  It's a lot of work, but it won't bend a second time.
 
Right now I wouldn't trust it at all, been there and done that with the TR-4 hood, still have to rebuild that spot.
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Steve

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« Reply #67 on: November 22, 2010, 06:25:11 PM »

Good points.
 
I don't think the pictures are doing it justice.
 
I made some of these.  Made sure I didn't grind the metal itself, and plugged and welded the parimeter.  Now it's almost like one piece of metal.  I understand what you are saying and even looked at that when I was dealing with the poorly drilled nuts.  Attaching the nuts to the inside support was the trick, and key to the bolting strength.  I thought about slitting one end somewhere and drilling a series of holes in the frame,  Then sliding my piece in and spot welding it through the holes.  But!  If you look at the shape of the frame, there is a bend in the original contour of the hood support frame.  Right where that bend is, is where it kinked.  In order to span the kink, I would have to dismantle the whole hood.  Not a good option.  Trust me Ed,  It will never kink there again.  I tried to bend it there already and it's not moving.
 

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« Reply #68 on: November 22, 2010, 07:39:40 PM »

YOu got it, I kind of missed what you had done until I relooked at the pictures, thanks for that all-important bracket on the tire picture, helped a lot.
Ed
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Steve

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« Reply #69 on: November 22, 2010, 07:55:19 PM »

The only bad thing out of all this is I have to repaint the inside of the hood.  But I will be taking the inners out first when I get the new hinges. 
 
I had to mess with the shape of the hood some more and now I have a bigger dent there.  It's not much, but ehough that I wish I could pull out, but not enough to fuss over.  I think I will just fill it.  Before I hang the front fender on that side, I will get the repainting done, under the hood, align the hood and fender properly, then finish off the filler work with the fender on.  I was going to pre-paint the fenders before hanging them.  They're going to have to sit outside for a few days while I get the brake hoses on and finish the inners on the fender side.
 
See?  I have a plan.  Whether it's a good one or not, time will tell.
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #70 on: November 23, 2010, 03:09:46 AM »




Brian

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« Reply #71 on: November 23, 2010, 11:53:29 AM »


Quote from: Commando1




You cheeky Monkey......

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Brian

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Steve

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« Reply #72 on: November 23, 2010, 12:20:25 PM »

Shaaaaadddddd  Aaaaappppp   Both of you.    
 
You got a better plan?  You suckers wait. 
 
While blabber mouth fools around with his dashboard, I am saving a very hard to get hood.
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Steve

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« Reply #73 on: November 23, 2010, 05:52:27 PM »









 

 

 
OK
 
The right side is just 80 grit.  I sprayed the black to look for the flaws which I have since filled.
 
The last oicture is for reference.  When you stand back and compare the two sides, there is a difference in the shape.  But you have to look
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azblackhemi

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« Reply #74 on: November 23, 2010, 06:27:14 PM »

Looks good Steve.
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