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Author Topic: Spindles & Bearings ?  (Read 615 times)

Dan Cluley

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Spindles & Bearings ?
« on: October 06, 2010, 10:56:30 PM »

Got started pulling this mess apart tonight.
 
1. I have an extra spindle.  Am I correct that the same part works on both sides of the car?
 
2. This part is the bearing race, and comes out of the drum, correct?
 

 
 
3.  There are two large bolts that go through the brake backing plate, the spindle, and then the lower ball joint.  I've got the nuts off the backside, but the bolts don't want to move.  The ball joints aren't threaded are they?  The bolts should just theoretically pull out, right?
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Herman

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« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2010, 12:36:03 AM »

Depending how you jacked up the car, the (full) force of the torsionbar suspension might still be on those 2 bolts right now. Better be carefull here.
You should also jack up the lower control arm near the balljoint a bit to take the tension off the bolts.

The rubber bumper in the upper control arm wants to pull the spindle-assembly up a bit, while the torsion bar pulls every thing down. Only the spindle bolts, and perhaps later on, the fully extended shock-absorber keeps all this stuff together.



Snotty

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« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2010, 09:09:27 AM »

Did you release the tension on the T-bars?  According to the Servicve Manual, you are to loosen the two big adjusting nuts on the lower control arms before removing any of these parts.
 
I've pulled mine off twice.  Both times the bolts wanted to stay where they were.  A simple tap on them with a light hammer or rubber mallet took care of that.
 
And, yes, that is the race.  To drive it out use a punch from the other side.  There are bearing race-drivers that make putting the new one in a breeze.  They're expensive, but worth it.
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Snotty

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« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2010, 09:14:00 AM »

On the spindle, my memory tells me there is a right and left side determined by the lower tie-rod mount. Snotty2010-10-07 14:14:17
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Steve

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Spindles & Bearings ?
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2010, 02:13:26 PM »

To answer the first question, and I thought I did answer this, yes.  The race comes out.  You need a punch and a decent sized hammer.  A narrow point punch and a 1 pounder will make short order of the race.  You can reverse the process when installing the new race.  A good sharp pointed punch or the right sized socket and the new race will go right in.  Make sure it's seated all the way in though.  The wheel bearing will loosen up after a few corners if you don't.
 
What these guys are saying is you have to take the suspension tension off the knuckle.  So put the control arm on a jack stand.  Bolts will come right out then
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Snotty

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« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2010, 06:21:02 PM »


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Dan Cluley

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« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2010, 11:56:14 PM »

Thanks all for the suggestions,
 
Taking the force off the control arm did help a bit.  I have one bolt out.  There seems to be just enough surface rust on the bolt shaft to make it stick to the hole.  Took a lot of force to get it to turn, but once loosened a bit then was able to drive it out with a hammer.
 
The other one hasn't given up yet, but I got a new socket to use my bigger longer breaker bar (24" 3/4" drive) and will try again in the morning.
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Steve

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« Reply #7 on: October 09, 2010, 03:30:51 PM »

You're supposed to split the baal joint from the control arm first.
 
Try pushing down real hard on the upper control arm to get the bolt out
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Dan Cluley

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« Reply #8 on: October 09, 2010, 09:33:44 PM »

With the big breaker bar I was able to break the rust loose, and once it started turning,  it came out no problem.
 
 
The problem with the upper ball joint, is that I couldn't get the right angle with my puller.  Ended up taking out the cam bolts and taking the upper arm, ball joint, and spindle home as one unit.
 
Once clamped to the bench the ball joint separated from the spindle much easier.
 
So at this point all the big pieces are back in place, and I just need to get the drum ready and put the little bits back together.
 
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