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Author Topic: '65 Chrysler Won't Start  (Read 1566 times)

Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« on: September 15, 2010, 07:11:28 PM »

I was driving along, enjoying a nice ride in my '65 300 'vert when it died all of a sudden and wouldn't start.  I thought it was the coil but I replaced it and it still won't start.  It's getting fuel so I know it has to do something with spark.  Any clues what it could be?  The FSM says faulty coil or condensor.  Would a faulty condensor cause the motor to quit?
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Dan Cluley

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2010, 07:14:24 PM »

My first thought is the ballast resistor.
 
D Cluley2010-09-16 00:18:16
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1965 300 Convertible
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2010, 07:26:33 PM »


Quote from: D Cluley
My first thought is the ballast resistor.
 

Brand new points, condensor and distributor.  Brand new Ballast Resistor too.
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Dan Cluley

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2010, 08:17:50 PM »

Let's start by checking if power is getting to the coil.
 
With the ignition turned on:
 
connect black multimeter probe to a good ground
touch red probe to the + connection on the coil (should be the blue wire)
 
Should be about 6 volts. 
If it is, then you have power, and the problem is something with the coil/distributor/plugs.
 
If there is no voltage at the coil, then we need to trace that blue wire back. (for each of these, the black probe goes to ground & the red probe goes to the connection being checked)
 
One end of the ballast resistor has a plug with the blue wire & a brown wire.  This should read 6 volts
 
The other end of the ballast resistor just has the blue wire, this should be 12 volts.
 
The ign terminal on the voltage regulator (blue wire again) should also be 12 volts.
 
-------------
 
Start with those, if there is no power getting to the voltage regulator, then we need to start messing with the bulkhead connector and the ignition switch, so try the easy stuff first
 
 
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1965 300 Convertible
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2010, 08:20:58 PM »

Thanks Dan.  I'll check this stuff out in the morning.
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2010, 05:04:04 AM »

Okay, 7.4 volts at the coil.  Problem must be in the distributor.  I tried a different coil last night and it wouldn't fire.  I'll have to check the points gap and condensor.  How do I test the condensor?
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Steve

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2010, 06:26:59 AM »

Quote from: rexus31
Okay, 7.4 volts at the coil.  Problem must be in the distributor.  I tried a different coil last night and it wouldn't fire.  I'll have to check the points gap and condensor.  How do I test the condensor?


 
Change it.  LOL
 
Are those the points when you bought the distributor?  If so. . .  .  Remember the OEM rule.  Cheaper the better
 
 Bring the motor around so the points are open.  Turn the key on and open and close the points with a screw driver.  see if they spark.  Be careful it's not to short them to the case.  That usually rulls out half what I suggested.
 
is it at least trying to start?
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #7 on: September 16, 2010, 08:07:11 AM »

I checked the points gap with them on the cam and I couldn't even get the .010 feeler gauge in between.  I adjusted the points to .018 and it still didn't fire.  It's not even wanting to fire.  I was thinking maybe the condensor blew because the points were too close for who knows how long.  I had noticed recently the car was idling a little rough; like it had a little bit of a cam in it.  Anyway, I pulled those points and found the plastic retainer that holds the condensor contact and negative lead wire contact was cracked.

I tried installing a new set of points but when I went to tighten the points the screw was stripped.  I think it is stripped on the actual plate on the distributor.  The distributor is covered under warranty and I should get it later this afternoon.  I have a Pertronix Ignitor II setup with coil and I am contemplating installing it and ditching the points.  I even have a ballast with the guts removed and a 12 gauge wire connecting the two terminals to run the Pertronix.
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Jason Goldsack

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2010, 09:12:57 AM »

I had the same problem with my 65.. turns out it was oil sucked in to the intake and fouled the plugs..

Make sure you intake bolts are tight and pull the plugs


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Jason

(Eileen)1965 Chrysler Windsor, 361/727/2.76 16.49 @ 86 mph

Steve

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2010, 09:27:10 AM »

That cam looks awful dry.  But it looks like it was lubed.  Or maybe not.  If you look at the cam on the points, there is metal sticking to it.
 
Jason had the same problem.  Get some point lube.  Put some on with a Q-Tip
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2010, 12:19:57 PM »

What's everyone's take on the Pertronix unit?
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Steve

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2010, 12:35:10 PM »

They work well and a re fairly reliable as long as you hook them up to the reduced voltage
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #12 on: September 16, 2010, 01:43:37 PM »

What do you mean by reduced voltage?
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Leaburn Patey

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2010, 01:59:56 PM »

I use Pertronix and love the simple set up.
No mods whatsoever.Just hook up both wires to the coil.
No ballast resistor mods--nothing.
The NYer had the Ignitor in there for ten years .I daily drove my 71 Coronet for years with it.The Boab has it too.
With the hotter spark,I use an Accel Super Stock coil painted to look stock and gap the plugs  37 thou instead of the factory 35 thou.
Your timing will need to be adjusted and may not follow factory settings.Typically the timing will need to go up just a bit.Also you can fatten up the mixture to match the timing.
The result is more bottom end,crisp response,and smoooth idle.
 
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Steve

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2010, 03:02:52 PM »

Here we go with the wiring again.. .   LOL
 
Bad wire on the points, ballast, shorted points, Bad Rotor, coil wire, jumped time, Bad cap
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