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Author Topic: '65 Chrysler Won't Start  (Read 1553 times)

firedome

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #15 on: September 16, 2010, 03:12:27 PM »

Mopar wiring is almost as bad as British!! ... Joesph Lucas, the Prince of Darkness.

Why do the Brits drink warm beer? They all have Lucas refrigerators!!



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Steve

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2010, 03:35:05 PM »

Mopar wiring is OK except for 71 wiring.  The rest is pretty good.
 
Lucas made a llot of tow truck drivers rich
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #17 on: September 16, 2010, 05:21:37 PM »

Here's where I'm at.
I got the new distributor, installed the Pertronix Ignitor II and Coil.  Still no fire!  I'm getting 12V to the positive terminal on the coil but no spark out of the coil.  Is it possible to have 2 bad coils?  What could it be?
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Steve

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« Reply #18 on: September 16, 2010, 08:21:23 PM »

First of all, you need to have the ballast resistor in the circuit.  The Pertronix requires the resistor or it will burn out.  If you are seeing 12 volts at the coil, and the Pertronix is wired to the same, you may have burned out the Pertronix unit already.  Trust me.  It doesn't take long to fry it.

 
Throw another set of points and condenser in it if you have too.  They can withstand the voltage better, but the coil will eventually over heat and fry too.
 
That said, are you sure the voltage on the + at the coil is 12?  I thought you said 7.5 earlier
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Guests

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #19 on: September 16, 2010, 09:24:39 PM »

Yeah, Pertronics run on 9.5 volts, so yes, the ballast resistor does fix that problem. Now, to help keep from running the battery down and all that jazz, mark the distributor so you know where it is supposed to be, and loosen the bracket so it will move semi-freely. When you get done checking something, pop the distributor cap to see where the rotor is (the rotor is in place, right?), and with the key on, you should be able to turn the distributor so it is over that spark plug and going back and forth you should be able to get a spark through a spark plug grounded to the engine. Saves a lot of gas, batteries, wonder all the way around. Once you determine there is spark, set the mark on the distributor where it was and tighten the bracket, make her work the way she was designed to.
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #20 on: September 17, 2010, 04:45:35 AM »


Quote from: POLARACO
First of all, you need to have the ballast resistor in the circuit.  The Pertronix requires the resistor or it will burn out.  If you are seeing 12 volts at the coil, and the Pertronix is wired to the same, you may have burned out the Pertronix unit already.  Trust me.  It doesn't take long to fry it.

 
Throw another set of points and condenser in it if you have too.  They can withstand the voltage better, but the coil will eventually over heat and fry too.
 



What is the little condensor looking thing whose wire goes to the negative side of the coil?  It's held in place by one of the coil bracket nuts.
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Steve

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #21 on: September 17, 2010, 05:51:30 AM »

That's a noise suppressor for the radio.  Leave it off for the time being
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Steve

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« Reply #22 on: September 17, 2010, 06:01:05 AM »

Try running a jumper from the Battery right to the coil and see if it will start.  You may have voltage, but not enough current.  Also see if you can read the voltage on the load side of the ballast when the key is in the start position.  Set the brake and put it in gear for that test.  You should see 12 volts when the key is in the start position.
 
I know this is a really dumb question. . .The distributor is turning inside right?
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #23 on: September 17, 2010, 06:30:46 AM »


Quote from: POLARACO
Try running a jumper from the Battery right to the coil and see if it will start.  You may have voltage, but not enough current.  Also see if you can read the voltage on the load side of the ballast when the key is in the start position.  Set the brake and put it in gear for that test.  You should see 12 volts when the key is in the start position.
 

Yes, distributor is turning.  I am going to put the points and condensor in, get a new coil and rotor and see what happens.  I will check the current at the coil and ballast before I start cranking.
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Steve

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #24 on: September 17, 2010, 06:38:29 AM »

You said that Pertronix wanted you to take the ballast resistor out?  Are you sure about that?  The Mopar unit requires it.  I remember the instructions can confuse you
 
Check that coil output with the cap and rotor off the disty too
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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #25 on: September 17, 2010, 06:58:30 AM »

Here are the directions.

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Steve

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« Reply #26 on: September 17, 2010, 07:45:00 AM »

It's too bad you're 3500 miles away
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Scott

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« Reply #27 on: September 17, 2010, 07:51:17 AM »


Quote from: POLARACO
It's too bad you're 3500 miles away



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Scott

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #28 on: September 17, 2010, 12:43:04 PM »

Okay, I've installed the new distributor with new points and condensor.  I've installed a new coil as well.  I have not connected the distributor to the coil yet.  With the key in the "On" position I am getting around 11.5 volts to (+) side of the coil, both sides of the Ballast Resistor and on the Ignition side of the Voltage Regulator.  Is it a bad Ignition Switch or a bad Ballast Resistor or a faulty something else?
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Dan Cluley

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'65 Chrysler Won't Start
« Reply #29 on: September 18, 2010, 12:49:43 AM »

Quote from: rexus31
With the key in the "On" position I am getting around 11.5 volts to (+) side of the coil, both sides of the Ballast Resistor and on the Ignition side of the Voltage Regulator.  Is it a bad Ignition Switch or a bad Ballast Resistor or a faulty something else?
 
Just to make sure, this is with the key just in the "On" position, like the engine is running, not the "Start" that cranks the starter, right?
 
 
If so, pull the plugs off the ballast resistor and check those places again.
 
The connection on the voltage regulator and the single wire plug (just blue) that goes on one end of the ballast resistor should still be about 12 v.
 
The coil and the two wire ballast resistor connector (one blue, one brown?) should be zero.
 
If so, then somehow the ballast resistor isn't dropping the voltage like it should.
 
If you still show 12v on the wire from the ballast resistor to the coil, then somehow that brown wire is getting power, which it shouldn't unless the key is in the start posistion.
 
That could be bad ignition switch, or a problem somewhere in the wiring between the switch, the bulkhead connector and the ballast resistor.
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