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Author Topic: Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air  (Read 2745 times)

Steve

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #30 on: July 15, 2010, 10:47:01 AM »

I have to go look at the car.  It's back in storage, 15 miles from here.  This one may have the switch.  I know the white one didn't as shown in the illustration.  I'll be screwed then.  That means the dash harness is different.  Ugh
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Dan Cluley

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #31 on: July 15, 2010, 03:16:58 PM »

PN 252 1241 - resistor bypass switch
 
From the picture there, it looks like when you select AC, the AC actuator moves the actuator rod with the kink in it, and that pushes the operating arm on the bypass switch.
 
(I'm starting to think that Rube Goldberg was on the payroll at Chrysler ;)  )
 
--------------------------------------------------
 
Ok, lets take a look at how it is all supposed to work.
 
Cleaned up version of the "official" wiring diagram
 

 
Here is my "Unscrambled" version
 

 
With the resistor bypass switch off (I'm still assuming that is AC modes, but haven't verifiyed it) and the blower switch on low.  Power goes through the vacuum switch, and through all 3 resistors to the blower.
 

 
Bypass off, Blower switch on Medium:  Power goes through resistor 1, through the blower switch (around resistor 2) through resistor 3 and to the blower
 

 
Bypass off, Blower swtich on High:  Power goes through resistor 1, through the blower switch (around resistors 2 & 3) to the blower.
 

 
Now, with the bypass switch ON, each of the 3 speed settings work the same, except that the power goes through the bypass switch avoiding resistor #1
 
Here is Bypass ON, Blower switch low:
 

 
 
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1965 300 Convertible
1974 Dart Sedan

Scott

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #32 on: July 15, 2010, 07:35:38 PM »

So do you think the switch isn't turning "On" when the heater is selected?  Do you think it is a matter of adjusting the arm that toggles it?
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Steve

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #33 on: July 15, 2010, 07:58:13 PM »

That could be scott.  Should be easy enough to see
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Dan Cluley

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #34 on: July 15, 2010, 09:04:59 PM »

I don't think it's the switch itself.  On or off either way, you still should have 3 blower speeds. 
 
---------------------
 
I had a completely off the wall thought, but at least it's easy to check.
 
1. I still think the problem is something heating up, and loosing contact.
2. The reason the resistors are located there is for the airflow in the box to keep them cool.
3. Maybe the reason it works on the AC setting is because the airflow is cooler?
 
What happens if you put the AC on, put the blower on high or med and push the temp lever over to hot?
 
-------------------------
 
Ok, time to break out the multimeter:
 
Let's check the bypass switch first.
 
Pull the L shaped connecter loose (should be Dk Green C8 & Brown C9) and check the resistance between the two wires (check the plug, not the male prongs on the resistor block)
 
With the motor running (pretty sure we need vacuum for this test) check the resistance  at that plug trying each of the positions of the push button vacuum switch (off, AC, heat, etc)
 
My guess is that it will be pretty close to 0 ohms in the AC postions and no connection at all in the others, but I could be wrong.
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Scott

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #35 on: July 16, 2010, 05:23:48 AM »


Quote from: D Cluley
I don't think it's the switch itself.  On or off either way, you still should have 3 blower speeds. 
 
---------------------
 
I had a completely off the wall thought, but at least it's easy to check.
 
1. I still think the problem is something heating up, and loosing contact.
2. The reason the resistors are located there is for the airflow in the box to keep them cool.
3. Maybe the reason it works on the AC setting is because the airflow is cooler?
 
What happens if you put the AC on, put the blower on high or med and push the temp lever over to hot?
 
-------------------------
 
Ok, time to break out the multimeter:
 
Let's check the bypass switch first.
 
Pull the L shaped connecter loose (should be Dk Green C8 & Brown C9) and check the resistance between the two wires (check the plug, not the male prongs on the resistor block)
 
With the motor running (pretty sure we need vacuum for this test) check the resistance  at that plug trying each of the positions of the push button vacuum switch (off, AC, heat, etc)
 






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Steve

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #36 on: July 16, 2010, 10:15:24 AM »

I agree Scott. . .   Looking at the drawing, the Bypass just seems to work on full speed, not three speeds as Dan thinks.
 
This is a flippen mess.  The only guy I knew that would know recently died.  Maybe that's why they took it out of the cars.
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Scott

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #37 on: July 16, 2010, 11:50:23 AM »

I found this in the A Body section of my A/C FSM.  It's the same switch as the C Bodies.

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Steve

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #38 on: July 16, 2010, 03:44:59 PM »

But I thought you already had hig speed in AC.  Maybe I better go back and read the first post.
 
If the switch wasn't in there, you'd have 3 speeds on AC.  If I recall, it was reversed.
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Scott

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #39 on: July 16, 2010, 04:14:02 PM »


Quote from: POLARACO
But I thought you already had hig speed in AC.  Maybe I better go back and read the first post.
 

I have all 3 speeds in A/C mode and only Low in Heat mode.
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Dan Cluley

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #40 on: July 16, 2010, 04:48:11 PM »

Steve, take another look at the drawings I made.
 
The blower switch gives you 3 speeds by using resistors 2 & 3  (low uses both, med uses only 3, high bypasses both of them)
 
The bypass switch controls whether or not resistor 1 is included.
 
Think of it like a 4x4 with a 3 speed transmission and hi and low in the transfer case.
 
I'm guessing because of the extra duct work, they wanted more air flow in the AC mode.  It's accomplished differently, but my '74 Dart does exactly the same thing.
 
 
-------------------------------------
 
Scott,  I took some pictures to show how to test stuff, and will be doing another post later tonight.
 
 
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Scott

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #41 on: July 16, 2010, 04:55:25 PM »


Quote from: D Cluley
 

Thanks Dan.  I look forward to it.
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Steve

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #42 on: July 16, 2010, 05:04:25 PM »

Quote from: rexus31
[color=#ffffff Apple-style-span="Apple-style-span"]The Blower Motor will not blow above Low when the Heater or Defroster is selected. Max Cool and Fr Cool both blow at all speeds. I know it is not the Blower Motor Switch because if it was faulty the speeds wouldn't vary regardless of what was selected. I swapped out the Blower Motor Resistor today with a known working unit and the problem still exists. I installed a new A/C and Heater Switch before I restored the car and it worked fine. Does anybody have an idea what it could be? [/color]
 
I don't think that switch is the issue Scott
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Steve

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #43 on: July 16, 2010, 05:07:12 PM »

I'me very Analog Dan.  I have to see one, then I am sure I can figure it out.  But I've only had time to glance the drawings.   I have 6 weeks worth of work to do in 2 1/2.
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Scott

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Heater / Defroster Issue - 1965 300 w/ Factory Air
« Reply #44 on: July 16, 2010, 06:13:36 PM »

The resistor bypass switch or the blower motor switch?
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