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Author Topic: Chassis coat  (Read 537 times)

Riyad

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Chassis coat
« on: May 02, 2010, 01:36:30 PM »

Hello Guys, you may know Imperials and C bodies 'maybe many others'  had thick chassis undercoat witch is still in very good condition on imperial and very hard to remove, so we decided to keep it there on most areas , does anyone know what exactly the material they used or similar that you recommend ? 



Imperiyad2010-05-02 18:37:56
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73' Imperial LeBaron

Stan Paralikis

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Chassis coat
« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2010, 03:08:10 PM »

I really don't know but if I had to come up with a guess it would be a 50/50 mix of concrete and coal tar.  Maybe with a smidgeon of Kryptonite for good measure...

Steve

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Chassis coat
« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2010, 05:44:50 PM »

Very Cute Stan
 
It was a beutle type of under coating.  Similar to the rubberized stuff in the can.
 
Eastwood makes a product that softens it so it can be scrapped off.  Wen putting on new, make sure the metal surface is clean, rust free and painted.  That stuff traps moisture iner it if it isn't sticking properly
 
The other thing I like to use in wheel wells is that spray on pick up bed liner.  Sticks to just about anything
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firedome

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Chassis coat
« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2010, 06:59:43 AM »

Butyl? Undercoat used to be basically a coal tar compond with asbestos
fiber added,  but by the 60s butyl and/or other elasticizers were
added and the asbestos was eventually deleted. Personnaly I don't
like to re-apply undercoat after I repaint the floors,  it will
trap
moisture as Steve says, especially when it gets hard and
brittle...  some of the best old car floors I've seen had never
had any factory undercoating. So I just do all the scraping, wire
brushing etc,  and paint
with primer and paint really well, and leave it at that. I like silver
Por 15, then a topcoat of flat or semi flat black. which looks like
undercoat.


firedome2010-05-03 12:01:28
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Alan

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Chassis coat
« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2010, 07:44:48 AM »

Heat it with a propane torch, it softens right up and scrapes off with a putty knife. Any residue thats left will wipe off with mineral spirits.  No matter how you do it, its a PITA job.
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Al

Steve

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Chassis coat
« Reply #5 on: May 03, 2010, 08:55:41 AM »

heating it could be dangerous, you need to be really controlled with the torch.  Those carpets and backings are really old and not too flame retardent.
 
You know Rog?  I don't know what I was thinking. . .    I knew that, and you're right.  My bad.  Must be the lack of Nicotine.  I've been a mess
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firedome

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Chassis coat
« Reply #6 on: May 03, 2010, 10:41:16 AM »

I use an electric heat gun to soften it and scrape - safer than a torch...yep, it's nasty work.

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Riyad

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Chassis coat
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2010, 06:41:12 AM »

Thank you guys for all the tips and ideas, that thing was very well soften by ATF around the tranny witch leaked and was changed later to new one, around that it was very easy to remove but hard on areas that never got moisture, now its only left on rear floor panels and above the diff. 
Por 15 would be very expensive to do the whole car so we will use 2 components black primer then spray with chasis coat that has hard finish
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