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Author Topic: Moving right along!  (Read 435 times)

Andy

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Moving right along!
« on: April 19, 2010, 12:46:21 PM »

Found all the pieces for the dash in my “pile of parts,” or hope I got all of them! Got them all cleaned up, painted and polished and ready to install. Noticed the lower part of the dash has been scratched up so I’m thinking just a rattlecan of black should take care of that. I’ve got some red scuff pads to scuff the dash up before painting. Good enough or should I get coarser sandpaper? Shoot the dash with the paint or prime it first then sand?
 
Next I was looking at the floors. They’re in good shape but I’m wondering, as long as the interior is out, if I should replace the seam sealer. Doesn't look like any of it's leaking. It just looks 46 years old! If I do go this way how hard is it to get this stuff off and what’s the best way to do that?
 
I'm still trying to figure out if there's supposed to be a spring under that horn ring. Searched thru the factory service manual, and wouldn't you know it, doesn't show one just the flat ring that's in there. Don't know how that horn ring is supposed to come back up after you push it!
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Guests

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Moving right along!
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2010, 06:48:57 PM »

For the seam sealer, a one and a half inch flat scraper. If it has come loose, it will come out real easy, and if it is still stuck really good, leave it and just cover it over to match the new stuff. The stuff has the consistency of bondo that doesn't harden completely, but the outside goes dry, and after 46 years, it can dry out and whatever material it was stuck to, like paint, can kind of flake off easily enough. Clean the surface with something like laquer thinner to remove grease, smear new stuff on.
 
The 3M pad should be good enough, then let it cure under a heat light or high watt lightbulb to harden it better.
 
Not sure about that horn spring, so it may be a ring with a spring metal piece that allows it to not stick, so unless someone else has more info, put it together and find out, let us know if a spring is going to be needed.
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Dan Cluley

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Moving right along!
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2010, 11:33:22 PM »

I don't know about the earlier cars (yours is a 63 or 64 right?)  but the ones I've seen, the springs are inside the horn switch itself.  The ones I've got are like a flat donut with 3 screw holes and 3 bumps.  It is made of two pieces of metal and you should be able to squeeze them together a little and then it springs back.
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1965 300 Convertible
1974 Dart Sedan

Steve

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Moving right along!
« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2010, 06:11:33 AM »

That's the one. . .   I have to take some pictures for Stan, so I'll take one of a horn switch for you too
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Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Andy

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Moving right along!
« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2010, 12:40:21 PM »

Quote from: D Cluley
I don't know about the earlier cars (yours is a 63 or 64 right?)  but the ones I've seen, the springs are inside the horn switch itself.  The ones I've got are like a flat donut with 3 screw holes and 3 bumps.  It is made of two pieces of metal and you should be able to squeeze them together a little and then it springs back.
 
Yup, that's it. Here's a picture I took.
 

 
   I have a wire coming out of the column with a splice. The flat tab goes to the horn switch the "U" shaped connector was bundled up in 15 pounds of electrical tape! Ok maybe not THAT much, just a big wad! I think it must have gotten wedged under the horn ring and kept it from coming back up. If I press down on the switch, it's still springs back. What is that "U" shaped wire for, and can I just remove it? I'm fairly sure the column is original to the car, but the wheel may not be. Didn't the 300s have an oval wheel?
   I'd like to remove the "U" connector, solder the connection and cover it with some shrink tube.
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Guests

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Moving right along!
« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2010, 08:17:12 PM »

Since it ties into the original wire for the horn ring/spring inside, looks like there was another wire to the horn button itself for extra power to make it sound, in case of a bad power wire, twice the chance of it grounding out to sound if juice is going to both sides of it. There should probably be a little screw on the underside that connects the horn ring to the steering wheel. In reality, this is an indication there is a problem with the horn ring the flat terminal attaches to (the "missing spring"), as in it isn't grounding out properly to sound. If you can press it with your finger (with battery connected) and it works, from there is it a matter of making sure the horn ring pushes against it to make it work.
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