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Author Topic: New numbers!  (Read 2175 times)

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New numbers!
« Reply #15 on: April 21, 2010, 08:43:24 PM »

Of course it is worth it to rebuild. The later engines had cast nodular steel cranks, which can handle 550hp easily, still rev into the 6500-7500rpm without problems, have a strong core and little core shift so they are stable blocks, and depending on the number of miles, she may not even require a cylinder rebore job. Even if there is internal damage, like a messed up bore, the block can be re-sleeved by pressing a new sleeve in. Heck, I have a 1976 truck block in my 68 Charger (it will eventually make its way to my 1939 Nash Business Coupe, but that's later).
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Stan Paralikis

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New numbers!
« Reply #16 on: April 22, 2010, 03:53:53 AM »

I have to stick my nose in where it doesn't belong sometimes but, somethings I continue to hear things that make all my orifices pucker.  In this case, it's the term "truck block".  No such thing.  I'll leave now - lol

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New numbers!
« Reply #17 on: April 22, 2010, 06:51:42 AM »

Stan, you didn't stick your nose where it didn't belong (yet), but truck block is usually simply associated with a smaller cam and larger water jacket simply to give more bottom end torque for towing/hauling, and keeping her cooler from the stress of towing/hauling. You are right, it is still completely interchangeable with even the 440 six-pac parts/components, no "truck specific" parts other than camshaft actually.
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Marcel

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New numbers!
« Reply #18 on: April 25, 2010, 10:39:03 PM »


Just had a look at the engine and it's the one with the cast crank.
This might be the core I'm going to use for the new project!
The Pistons have the chrysler star inside with a 10 behind it..
So these are stock?
Thx folks!

boyfriend2010-04-26 04:42:07
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Guests

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New numbers!
« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2010, 09:29:54 PM »

Better stick the measure tape on them pistons, they may be oversized .010inch, can't verify that.
 
If the block is solid, and if you don't want the cast crank, which is still a cast nodular steel, not GM cast iron, so it is still good for 6500rpm without a problem, good for 600hp without an issue, so not a bad crank, but if you want a steel crank, other than aftermarket, you have the 413 steel crank, and the 426 Wedge (hey, isn't that what you were going to be building to begin with???). 
Here's a good source for reasonable price.
 
http://store.440source.com/3750-Stroke-Crankshafts/products/39/
 
440 Source has some pretty good prices actually, and I have never heard anything bad about them.
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Marcel

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New numbers!
« Reply #20 on: April 27, 2010, 02:29:48 AM »

Hi thx for you reply!
I was also thinking of putting a complete stroker kit inside this engine.
.010  oversize isn't that bad I think..


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Guests

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New numbers!
« Reply #21 on: April 27, 2010, 06:55:33 PM »

You can do a 4.15inch stoker crank, and use big block Chevy sized rod journals, plenty of places out there with stroker kits and all that. I recommend the BBChevy rod diameters because the big block Mopar journals are good for torque and work, not so good for high rpm, just right on the edge of being too big, and today's quality of materials fixes the smaller journal size and strength of the 70s.
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