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Author Topic: The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH  (Read 18752 times)

Stan Paralikis

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #45 on: April 20, 2010, 07:01:48 AM »


CANCELLED !
 
 Why didn't I look closer at my firewall FIRST>
No room for the clutch to z-bar rod.
 
  You can't put 2 fingers tween the firewall and the wheel housing
 
Commando12010-04-20 12:06:15

Steve

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #46 on: April 20, 2010, 07:12:49 AM »

You could do a Hydro boost and Hydraulic
 
The mechanical rod runs on the inside of the firewall, through the floor.  Not on the outside as you thought.
 
Before you give up all hope, let me take some more pics as I promised I would last night.  It will shed more light on the project.
 
The only problem I see is mounting the pedal assembly.  But brackets and spacers will fix that.  That is the booster I had in mind last night.  Small Diameter, long.  That's a 2 stage booster
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Steve

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #47 on: April 20, 2010, 07:16:59 AM »

[/QUOTE]


 
Volkswagon used cables.  They were pretty responsive, but a PITA to adjust.  That's probably because it was over engineered.  Volks forte' is to make it hard to work on.  Even the Brake pads are a nightmare.
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Stan Paralikis

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #48 on: April 20, 2010, 08:57:10 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
You could do a Hydro boost and Hydraulic
Before you give up all hope, let me take some more pics as I promised...
I appreciate the confidence AND the assistance but this is going on the back burner.
Hold off.  Maybe I'll resurrect it in the future.
 
The cool part is, I got to discuss this thing  and get excellent input from everybody and it FORCED me to  think things through thorougly BEFORE I did anything stupid.

Steve

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #49 on: April 20, 2010, 09:14:12 AM »

I'll take those pictures for you anyway.  Maybe they'll change your mind.  I know I have most of the Mopar setup here, all you'd need is a trans.  The pedals are the problem.  But maybe a pick-up brake pedal can replace the manual pedal.  I think I can put the automatic brake pedal in here to make it work.  Both came from a 67
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Stewart Van Petten

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #50 on: April 20, 2010, 11:27:08 AM »

I believe that Steve was onto something when he mentioned a hydro vac brake booster...that might give you lots more room on the firewall for your clutch setup. I have used them in a few of my hotrods that run big cams and thus have low vacuum. It is sure nice to have power brakes when you are running more than triple the hp and more than double the torque of a stocker!


 
I have had hydraulic, cable and mechanical clutches over the years...you use what ever works...sometimes you do not have a choice what system to use because of structural restraints. 
 
It is a very nice car already...maybe you need to find a 4 speed car to play with!
 
Good luck with what ever you decide!
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Steve

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« Reply #51 on: April 20, 2010, 12:34:52 PM »

Hey Stan
 
I'm building my 68 with a 4 speed.  You can have that for 10,000 when I'm done.
 
I'll have Lance come up and help me
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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #52 on: April 20, 2010, 08:00:03 PM »

I still say the cable would slip right in there with no problem or room issues, and cables are better quality than they were twenty years ago to boot. My TR4 has a hydraulic clutch and it was touchy, only about an inch of pedal to slip while taking off or bogging. Took me a bit to get that one smooth, but yeah, very little control of the pressure...it's either all the way out or all the way in, very hard to make smooth takeoffs. They got the one in the PT Cruiser correct...had to replace that rascal last year about this time as it was starting to drip, and it is about four and a half inches long, none of that three inches clutch slave cylinder stuff like the old ones, this is self adjusting, just no bleeding capability, which took half an hour to slowly manually bleed.
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Steve

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #53 on: April 21, 2010, 06:12:07 AM »

A cable will eliminate the need for a bell crank sometimes.  You can make a pivot that bolts to the bell bolts.  Simplifies it even more for you
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Brian

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #54 on: April 21, 2010, 07:28:21 PM »


Quote from: POLARACO
A cable will eliminate the need for a bell crank sometimes.  You can make a pivot that bolts to the bell bolts.  Simplifies it even more for you

Hmmm...Never thought of a cable assisted set-up...I like it.  That would definitely use up a lot less room then even the Hyd. clutch set-up.



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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
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68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #55 on: April 21, 2010, 07:57:03 PM »

[/QUOTE]
If I keep a manual in the TR4 (why wouldn't I?) I will convert over to cable, just for the feel if nothing else.
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #56 on: April 22, 2010, 04:00:53 AM »

Hmmmm....
 
I Googled everything I could about cable operated clutches.  It's got me rethinking everything.  Tremec 5-speed top loader requires no tranny hump alteration and the cable op clutch just may fit.  I'm glad this discussion did not die.
PLUS, what really is getting me cranked up is Crownvic.org.   Guys are doing six-speed Vics and Marquis....  WOW!

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The Insanemission thread- CLUTCH
« Reply #57 on: April 22, 2010, 06:55:32 AM »

Quote from: Commando1
Hmmmm....
 
I Googled everything I could about cable operated clutches.  It's got me rethinking everything.  Tremec 5-speed top loader requires no tranny hump alteration and the cable op clutch just may fit.  I'm glad this discussion did not die.
Is that automatics or manuals? Hoping manuals. Big cars and manuals is not a bad thing, and yeah, cable clutch does fix the clearance problem, feels just like a manual clutch, just the Z bar is removed so binding will never be an issue.
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Steve

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« Reply #58 on: April 22, 2010, 07:27:59 AM »

What makes you think you have to modify the hump?  They make boots for that. 

Butch knows a guy who repops the C body hump extension for the Inland shifter
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #59 on: April 22, 2010, 10:11:10 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
What makes you think you have to modify the hump?  They make boots for that. 

Butch knows a guy who repops the C body hump extension for the Inland shifter
You're intruding into my area of expertise, boopie...
You have no idea what I went through once...
NO one CURRENTLY makes nor offers a c-body hump.  I have talked personally to the only people that did offer them.  They were hand pounded by a Peruvian metal craftsman.  In fact, I bought the second to last one they ever sold years ago.  The last one took another 2 years before it sold.  Harms said screw this and gave the distribution rights to RestoRick.  Rick has yet to sell any and won't until he has confirmed orders for several or more. 
Besides, it's a moot point.
A833's require the hump.  Top-loader Tremecs don't....  Tremec it will be.
Besides, do the math: Tremec = $1800
Used A833 + rebuild + shifter + hump = $$$$ anyway.
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