MoparFins

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

We changed servers, which is good, and lost all passwords, which is bad. See above.

Pages: [1] 2   Go Down

Author Topic: Radiator Problem  (Read 962 times)

Dan Cluley

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 532
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« on: April 09, 2010, 12:00:07 AM »

I just noticed that this bracket has come loose from the top tank.  Am I correct that it is supposed to be soldered to the tank?  Any way for me to fix this, or just take it to a radiator shop?
 

Logged
1965 300 Convertible
1974 Dart Sedan

Leaburn Patey

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 4606
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2010, 02:00:16 AM »

Take it to a rad shop.
The original 22" rad in the Boab fell apart at the same place.
 
Logged
1968 Newport Custom project BOAB
1973 Satelitte wagon
1983 Dodge 400
2006 300C HEMI!!

Butch Houghton

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 210
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2010, 04:41:51 AM »

Got a small Propane Torch & some solder?  fix it yourself,  not that hard.

Solder it back,  it's just a bracket .  Not like you're soldering the core.

Butch


Logged
68 Dart GT - 394 Stroker/6 Pack
70 Fury Gran Coupe - 472 Hemi
70 Sport Fury - 383 Magnum FK5

Steve

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • Posts: 8653
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2010, 06:47:42 AM »

Agreed
 
But you need to drain some of the coolant.  I suggest you lave the tubes covered.  That will prevent you from heating up the flange
Logged
Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Snotty

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 3972
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2010, 09:24:44 AM »

Had that happen on my '70 Challenger years ago.  The welds come loose eventually.  I don't weld, so I pulled it and took it to a shop.  If you do so - take it to a shop - it would be a good time to check the radiator to see if you could use a rod-out.
Logged
It's green here in Chico!!

Steve

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • Posts: 8653
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2010, 10:53:02 AM »

I would never rod an old rad
Logged
Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Stan Paralikis

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 114897
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2010, 12:02:48 PM »

Quote from: POLARACO
I would never rod an old rad

Stitcherbob

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 13606
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2010, 03:23:08 PM »



Radiators have become cheap enough to make taking the tanks off and running rods through them to clean (and possibly pierce) the tubes not worth the effort. But that bracket is easy....I've watched my friend Mark enough times at his rad shop to know how to do it.

Clean the tank and the bracket good. Do this by wire brushing the rust and dirt away first. Then heat both areas with a propane  torch (MAPP gas is hotter) and brush acid flux onto the tank and bracket while hot. I use the pink liquid flux "Tins-Tyter"  NAPA sells, the pros use Muriatic which smells awful when hot and spatters more. Safety glasses and ventilation is a must....plus put some rags or paper towels down there to catch the extra  acid residue. The area should come up shiny solder again. Then get a friend to push the bracket back down with a screwdriver pushed into that little hump in the bracket (Mark gave me his old professional clamp for those....it pulls both brackets together by those humps across from each other on the radiator). While he pushes it together, heat and flow some solder into the joint like soldering water pipes. Cool the area by flooding with your flux brush as he holds it and it should be good to go.

stitcherbob2010-04-09 20:28:20
Logged
They treat me like dirt! I'm better than dirt! Well better than most kinds of dirt. Maybe not as good as store-bought dirt.Thats got nutrients & stuff

Steve

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • Posts: 8653
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #8 on: April 09, 2010, 04:34:52 PM »

[/QUOTE]


 
I agree. . .We have a mutual friend that will agree to that.  If it's a big industrial Rad, that's one thing.  I've never had a rad rodded, not worth it.
 
Dan, if you see green stains on the fins, it's time for it to go.  Once those fins start to rot, it looses it's efficency.   Being up in the salt country, and a daily driver, I would consider dropping the bucks on a recore.  It's 300 bucks in a decent shop
Logged
Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Dan Cluley

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 532
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2010, 10:49:07 PM »

Thanks for the tips.  I don't have a torch,  can do electical soldering, but I let the pros play with fire.
 
Haven't had any real cooling problems so I'm not going to mess with the core if I don't have to (can think of plenty of places to spent that $ first )
 
At a shop, can they fix this in the car, or does the rad need to be pulled?
Logged
1965 300 Convertible
1974 Dart Sedan

Leaburn Patey

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 4606
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #10 on: April 10, 2010, 02:10:35 AM »

Rad needs to be removed,Dan.

Logged
1968 Newport Custom project BOAB
1973 Satelitte wagon
1983 Dodge 400
2006 300C HEMI!!

Dan Cluley

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 532
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2010, 01:04:26 AM »

Gotcha,   Now I just have to find a shop.  The last guy who worked on it seems to have gone out of business (no, I don't think there's a connection)
 
D Cluley2010-04-11 06:07:53
Logged
1965 300 Convertible
1974 Dart Sedan

Stan Paralikis

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 114897
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #12 on: April 11, 2010, 03:36:07 AM »

Radiator shops are going the way of the soda fountains at the corner drug store.
Blame another  industry disappearing on the chinese and the EPA.  It's a conspiracy...

Steve

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • Posts: 8653
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #13 on: April 11, 2010, 04:54:04 AM »

A Men
Logged
Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Dan Cluley

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 532
    • View Profile
Radiator Problem
« Reply #14 on: April 21, 2010, 08:31:52 PM »

Well if it isn't one thing, it's two or three others.
 
Turned out the bottom ones were loose as well, and by the time I got the radiator out, the 4th one popped off.
 
Got it fixed no problem and all back together.  Then I notice trans fluid leaking.  Not the minor leak that it has always had, but a new bigger one coming from somewhere along the trans cooler lines.
 
Investigating that, I discovered that the starter was loose!
 
The leak turns out to be where the cooler lines go through the support bracket by the starter.  Not sure if it was extra movement from the loose radiator, or from the loose bracket, but it seems to have rubbed enough to put a pinhole in the line.
 
Eventually the whole thing will get replaced, but the plan for tomorrow is to cut there, and splice with rubber line.
 
 
 
 
Logged
1965 300 Convertible
1974 Dart Sedan
Pages: [1] 2   Go Up
 

© 2008-2014 Steve Hobby • © 2015 Allpar, LLC