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Author Topic: Getting the RB 383 back  (Read 4083 times)

Rob Molloy

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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #75 on: March 15, 2011, 09:09:21 AM »

I'm hoping they can wind it. It just needs that extra little bit. The car is almost there, I just don't want to get stranded somewhere because the starter decides it doesn't want to work like it needs to.

No worries on the starter thing. It happens. I'm glad places have decent return policies.
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Steve

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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #76 on: March 15, 2011, 11:13:01 AM »

[/QUOTE]

 
 
Good ol Hermie straightened my ass out.  I thought I was mistaken, but I was mistaken
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Herman

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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #77 on: March 16, 2011, 01:45:16 PM »

It was a dirty job but someone had to do it... lol

The starter on the 354 poly in my '57 Chrysler also cranks as slow as molasses. And because the fuel drains back and also evaporates out of the carb within a day or 2, it usually takes a good 30-40 seconds of cranking before it finally jumps to life again.
Then after pushing the Drive-button, it takes another 40 seconds before the transmission engages... lol
I've got a 392 Hemi in the works, and an A518 overdrive awaiting patiently for this car.

I would try different starters if you can get your hands on them, to see if one of them cranks faster.
Perhaps even open one up and check it's condition. Maybe slap some fresh grease on the bearings aswell.



Steve

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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #79 on: March 16, 2011, 08:52:41 PM »

But that has to be used with their bell housing
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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #80 on: March 16, 2011, 09:24:55 PM »

Is this a rebuilt starter or the original? There is a nose bushing that can appear good when no torque or engagement is done to it, and then slightly bind when in the transmission and engaged, making her drag. New brushes and cleaned up armature can help, along with a little grease  in the end bushings can help. Rewinding the whole thing may be almost as much as the $191 for a new one (I found online) and not really accomplish much. I say start with new brushes and bushings, pull her apart, polish the copper contact area on the armature where the brushes contact, blow the cobwebs out of her, replace the end bushings, grease them up a bit and try again. IN reading a little about them, the rear bushing (should be the same bushing as the nose bushing) tends to wear out more from the heat of the exhaust pipe in close proximity, so change both. Rockauto lists both bushings and brushes in their database. Run a scribe through the copper armature grooves before polishing, then clean it out afterwards again for better contact.dana442011-03-17 01:33:45
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Rob Molloy

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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #81 on: April 03, 2011, 08:43:13 AM »


So, I was feeling froggy this morning and wanted to tweak, and this is what became of it.
[TUBE]SCYe_put0DI[/TUBE]

My big concern is the smoke coming out the passenger side header. I think it did that before though. Cant remember, it's been so long. Next weekend will be exhaust. :D

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Leaburn Patey

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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #82 on: April 03, 2011, 09:23:06 AM »

It is not uncommon for a fresh rebuild to puff a little until everything seats itself and settle down after some driving time.
Once you get the exhaust on and drive it,it should be OK.
Not to worry.
 
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Jason Goldsack

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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #83 on: April 03, 2011, 09:37:09 AM »

What did you do to fix the starter issue?

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Jason

(Eileen)1965 Chrysler Windsor, 361/727/2.76 16.49 @ 86 mph

Dan Cluley

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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #84 on: April 03, 2011, 04:28:14 PM »

I couldn't tell from the vid, but is it exhaust leaking out somewhere, or oil burning off?  Mine leaks a little bit from the valve cover back in that corner, and if it sits for an extended period of time will accumulate enough oil on top of the exhaust to smoke like that for a few minutes the next start up.
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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #85 on: April 03, 2011, 04:36:08 PM »

I would also say the same thing, a little oil from a fresh build, a little oil on the exhaust. Drive her for a bit and it should stop, or, the valve cover leaks from that location.
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Rob Molloy

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Getting the RB 383 back
« Reply #86 on: April 03, 2011, 05:33:47 PM »

As far as the starter issue went, I didn't really do anything to it. I waited for the weather to warm up a little bit (it seemed to want to crank a little better when it was warm outside) and poured a little gas down the carb. I put in a new fuel pump a little while ago. It fired and burned what I poured down, and died. I messed with the carb and heard the hissing of fuel coming through the carb. That's when I realized the fuel made it from the tank. Cranked a little more and it roared to life. It starts a lot easier now. There are a few leaks I have to track down (coolant, tranny fluid) and the exhaust needs to be done, but I was able to drive it around the block. I'm so jazzed to have it running again!
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