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Author Topic: My 55 has arrived  (Read 4915 times)

Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #30 on: February 14, 2010, 08:23:53 AM »

I learned locksmithing many years from a guy like that.  While I learned HOW to pick locks, it ain't easy.  It's extremely hard.  Far beyond what I'm capable.  All the guys that could have died off.  I doubt if you can find a locksmith today who could pick it.  It's like babbiting.  Everyone knows the technique.  Who can do it?

firedome

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« Reply #31 on: February 14, 2010, 09:43:44 AM »

I'd not only change the oil, but if has sat that many years I'd
consider dropping the pan and cleaning it out and also making sure the
strainer isn't all gooped up with sludge or crud and will pass oil...
I've seen some that wouldn't, or just barely.

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firedome

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« Reply #32 on: February 14, 2010, 09:47:56 AM »


"it's like babitting... who can do it"  My uncle just babbited 5
Model A and 1 Model B blocks last winter, he's done dozens, has all the
special scrapers, if anyone needs it done, he can do,  and
reasonably too, PM me if you need babbit service ... he's 83 and still
going strong.



That was my "fancy pants" post.  I thought Coronados had the
tri-tone paint job with balck top? At least one's I've seen did. The
green and white, or white and green, patterns varied, I do know.

firedome2010-02-14 14:51:36
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Jessica

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« Reply #33 on: February 14, 2010, 01:13:53 PM »

.
JSands2010-11-06 03:50:52
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Steve

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« Reply #34 on: February 14, 2010, 03:11:18 PM »

Clorox Cleanup  Duh
 
He Pooh
 
Chuckles and I were talking about your trunk delema.  He came up with a great idea.
 
Take the glove box lock out and take it to a lock smith.  Have him make a key.  Costs about 15 Bucks
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Jessica

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« Reply #35 on: February 14, 2010, 04:06:33 PM »

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Steve

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« Reply #36 on: February 14, 2010, 04:32:18 PM »

I would lift the undercoating and all the joint sealer I can find and clean and reapply new joint sealer.  They make a brush on joint sealer in quarts.  Acid brushes work best on that.
Sometimes rust can be hidden under that stuff.  It traps the moisture under it.
 
As far as cleaning the floors, especially the rusted ares. . .  I would get a wire brush for a drill and clean it up as best you can.  Followed with a rust converter, Ospho is pretty easy to get everywhere but NJ.  Great stuff.   Then you can POR over that.
 
You want to cut out a good 4 to 5" past the obvious rust to fix that floor.  Save the piece and have someone dupe it for you with a offset lip around the parimeter, at least 1/2" bigger, no less.  Then you can get someone to weld it in.  Seal it on both sides, paint and the floors appear to be done.
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Brian

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« Reply #37 on: February 14, 2010, 05:58:29 PM »

I would first spray the entire floor with bleach, then wash out and repeat several times.  Get all the poop residue gone before you start work on the floors.

I agree with Steve, pull up the undercoating and then rust proof adn repaint adn then reseal the joints with the brush on stuff.





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Brian

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Steve

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« Reply #38 on: February 14, 2010, 06:04:53 PM »

Good point. . . .
 
Clorox Cleanup again because it has detergents that cut into organics.  Kills both birds.
 
I see Eastwood has a product to soften undercoating so you can scrap it off.  Not sure it will work with the body sealers though.  But if you plan on making this car 100%, it's a good idea you crawl under there and redo the whole bottom of the car too.  Nice coat of that rustoleum primer and then rustoleum black will do wonders
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Snotty

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« Reply #39 on: February 14, 2010, 06:55:16 PM »

If you can't make a key from the trunk, then having the original won't matter.  I'd drill the original out and then you could open the trunk with a screwdriver.  You will need a new key set and locks anyway.




 
Besides, you might find hidden treasure in there!
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Steve

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« Reply #40 on: February 14, 2010, 07:07:02 PM »

Hey Scott
 
The Glove Box and trunk are the same key.
 
I would use a generic blank to start off with though, just in case.
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #41 on: February 15, 2010, 03:54:14 AM »

Please, please, please, do yourself a favor and just bite the bullet and go rent a pressure steam washer.  And I don't mean those hokey Home Depot pieces o'crap.   And it has to be steam.  It will take care of 95% of the cleaning issues.  Only a jack hammer could do the other 5%.

Trust me on this one. 

Steve

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« Reply #42 on: February 15, 2010, 04:58:14 AM »

It's cleaning on a budget Stan
 
We're all not affluent like you
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firedome

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« Reply #43 on: February 15, 2010, 05:09:58 AM »

To get off that trunk and floor sound deadening tar-undercoat or whatever it is I've used an electric heat gun to soften it then scrape off with a stiff putty knife... I did my whole trunk and floors in my '58 DeSoto that way. Get EVERYTHING off because as mentioned, sometimes rust will be lurking under what looks like clean areas, and you don't want to give it a chance to come back.  I'd look for a rust free original floor section from a western car, like Chris in AZ is sending me for my F3.  John Fowlie of Big M fame (google Big M auto parts) will likely have one, he's reasonable, knows how to ship cheap,  and he's a great guy to deal with too. Next best is Repop 18 gauge floors from R/Car in CT. Bob does a good job duping the original contours and stiffening beads in the floor pans. He does trunks too. Avoid the crappy Claasicparts4u pans on eBay -it's  light gauge junk imo.  

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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #44 on: February 15, 2010, 05:41:34 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
It's cleaning on a budget Stan
We're all not affluent like you
What they're spending on materials would have rented that thing for 1/2 a day already....
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