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Author Topic: late model drivetrain swap  (Read 4310 times)

Steve

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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #30 on: January 04, 2010, 10:10:57 AM »

MMMMM
 
Still stuck on that front end idea. . .  Again and it has been confirmed, the sub frame will not handle it.  There are only 6 bolts holding the whole frame to the front end.  With the T Bar setup, the weight is distributed back to the strongest area of the frame.  From experience, I am telling you, [color=#ff0000 size=3]don't do it[/color].  Rebuilding the front end on that car, will not cost $3500, even with the firm feel steering box.
 
T Bars are readily available from Firm Feel and Just Suspensions.  If the car looks like it's sagging, it's probably because the lower bushings are gone and the T Bars need adjustment.  You CAN adjust the original bars.  Or you can accomplish better handling with a new set, which have a better variable rate than the stock ones.
 
There are plenty of Disc Brake conversions around.  
 
You are looking at $3500 for a kit.  But you are not taking into consideration all the modifications you'll have to do and the new, bad stresses you are puting on the sub-frame.  You'll have plenty of incidentials to invest. . . .  And nobody makes a kit to just bolt in for one of thise pigs.  They're land barges and always will be.
 
You start putting bunches of extra power and start beating it, and it will come around and bite you in the ass.
 
Been doing this for 50 years.  Been there, done that.  But it's your car.  These kids on the other forums don't know these cars.   This old mans club is telling you not to do it.  You are wasting a pile of money.
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Stitcherbob

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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #31 on: January 04, 2010, 01:24:39 PM »

Plus, I haven't seen one magazine article on doing this swap.......only AlterKtion and the other K frame that's out on the market......I get all the streetrod mags and Mopar mags....nobody did it, so maybe it can't be done. Or shouldn't be done.

Case in point: I once spent almost $1000 converting my electric R/C  monster truck from stock to gas powered. It broke everything in the driveline no matter how expensive the parts were. A few months later I had it running pretty good, but by then you could buy a complete gas one already engineered and indestructible for a lot less money......hard lesson learned.

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Jon Doersch

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« Reply #32 on: January 04, 2010, 04:16:25 PM »

Ok....First off, the 3500 is for the engine and trans. The front suspension is 1700. If the car won't handle it then it won't. I am not set on anything, I just have ideas that I wanted to get opinions on. I kind of figured that I would get this response, but forums are for discussion....I am not trying to ruffle anyones feathers, just trying to figure out the best way to upgrade a suspension with very little aftermarket support....
 
And I realize in the future that I should keep all of my ideas and questions in different posts to keep things more clear....
 
Lastly, I tend to hotrod stuff, not restore stuff....Sorry
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Stitcherbob

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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #33 on: January 04, 2010, 04:27:46 PM »


No ruffling! This is a good discussion! I know the Mustang 2 suspension is an upgrade....but for eliminating the old fashioned transverse leaf spring early Ford suspensions.....the Mopar Volare front suspension with transverse torsion bars is a popular upgrade for the F100 Ford pickups, but it is not a real good suspension in itself.....just better than the Ford. I myself like the torsion bar setup that's already there, with maybe a rack & pinion steering upgrade when they make them for our C bodies (A ,B & E are already out there). That would get a lot of weight off of the front, and make room for headers. The new K frame-eliminating suspensions were mainly for header and transmission clearance , along with oil pan room when putting a large Hemi in one of those Mopar bodies. I don't think there is anything to be gained by removing all of the stock stuff....unless you want to be the first to splice in a complete front and rear suspension from a modern Charger/Magnum along with your new Hemi install.....take lots of pictures for the site if you do that swap!
stitcherbob2010-01-04 21:31:34
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Steve

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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #34 on: January 04, 2010, 04:34:50 PM »

I don't have a problem with a Hot Rod. . .  As long as it's in taste. . .Some people have just flat out butchered a perfectly good plucked Chicken and then couldn't get rid of it because they screwed it up so bad.
 
No problems with the Hemi. . . .  None of us are fighting that, it's just the front end.
 
But with the right parts and upgrades, you can make that one hello a fast rider on the existing suspension.
 
We'll help ya. . .  But let's keep it in one spot.  I think I'll move this over to Members Projects.  Good place for it.  It will be an ongoing discussion, I am sure.
 
Research Research and more Research.  The electronic trans is going to be tough and you won't be able to use the factory computer setup.  There's 4 of them in a car.  I have 7 in my Diesel!  Be real careful how you select the control.  I think you want to talk to Rick Eherenburgh at Mopar Action Magazine.  I think he has this figured out already.  I'll let him know you will be writing him.  I can't give out his private email addy, but you can address him in the tech section on their web site.
 
Now that that is all over. . .Let's move forward.
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Stan Paralikis

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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #35 on: January 05, 2010, 03:56:53 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
.Some people have just flat out butchered a perfectly good plucked Chicken and then couldn't get rid of it because they screwed it up so bad.

Ahem....

 
 
 

firedome

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« Reply #36 on: January 05, 2010, 04:03:37 AM »


I agree with dose guys, there's nothing wrong with mods WHEN it's an
improvement... the torsion bar suspension was/is a superior design
technically (there's a reason turbine powered M1 Abrams tanks use it) , is
adjustable and rebuildable,  and is easily performance
upgraded...as they say, if it ain't broke...
firedome2010-01-05 09:06:04
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Jon Doersch

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« Reply #37 on: January 05, 2010, 05:27:38 AM »

The reason the tank uses it is because it has tracks and they had to come up with some solutions to keep up with the weight, although strickly speaking the tank setup is not the same as it is a transverse setup that links the road wheels from one side to the other...I don't doubt that torsion bars are better in heavy duty/truck setups, which is why most new trucks have them. Changing a torsion bar on a tank is a LOT harder than on the car as well...Ask me how I know
 
That being said, I can't find any parts for my particular application, from anyone...Just Suspension, Firm Feel, PST....None of them have my exact application. What cars have suspensions that interchange? I can't really call right now, given my current deployed status...Has anyone actually gotten parts for a 62 full size from any of these companies?
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Steve

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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #38 on: January 05, 2010, 05:49:23 AM »

Quote
Has anyone actually gotten parts for a 62 full size from any of these companies?
 
Oh hell ya.  at Just suspensions, write to Luke or Jayme.  They have the parts. 
 
If you have a Newport or 300 the BJ's are one diameter.  New Porker are larger.  I can't remember if the Lower Ball Joints have the arm or are thread in now.
 
They're web site is terrible.  But they don't sell that Chinese or India junk.  I strongly reccommend their bushings, and talk to them about upgrading your sway bar.
 
POLARACO2010-01-05 10:50:06
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Jon Doersch

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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #39 on: January 05, 2010, 05:59:55 AM »

OK...Excellent. I will write them...
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Steve

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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #40 on: January 05, 2010, 06:27:44 AM »

Tell them Polaraco from Mopar Fins sent you.  My real name is Steve Hobby.  They know that name
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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #41 on: February 10, 2010, 09:41:25 PM »

Gearheadjd, maybe if things were put into perspective as far as your front end goes it will make a little sense why you don't want to waste your money on a Mustang II front end. Physically speaking, the front end she has right now is about as beefy as a Dakota pickup. This kind of means, and with all seriousness, putting that Mustang II front end under her is equivalent to taking your friend's Ram truck and putting a K car front end under it, or putting a Pinto front end under a Lincoln Continental. Believe it or not, the torsion bar suspension is one of the finest non-racetrack suspensions designed, but I agree with you, factory did not put large enough bars in them, but believe me, my 68 Charger has 1.14 bars in her (stock is .998) and it was a world of difference over anything else I could have put under her for $250. I am sure all your bushings are shot, all the joints more than worn, and $500 for all new front end brake components would be nicer than worrying about the strength of some cool Pete and Jake Mustang II front suspension, that's just going backwards in quality and you don't sound like that is your intention. You won't be able to set your ride height without cutting springs or adding spring clamps/spacers, all you need is a 3/4 inch socket and a couple minutes under the car and adjust what you want.

Rear end: Yeah, you have 3.91s or 4.10s, and yes, they will eat up the gas and push that 361 even if it is a winding motor. I like the 361 myself, calculating for a stroker 400 with 440 rods and what looks like I can't get a 4.125 overbore piston with the proper deck height, so still looking into that, but highway gears are my favorite, too (I have a 64 361 out of a Custom 880, nice closed chamber heads, ported, polished, edged, great heads.)
 






If you are going to do the Hemi and tranny and rear end, IRS out back isn't anything difficult, you have frame rails to tie it together with, almost a cut and paste thing with metal, width isn't a major issue, IRS has driveline tube axles, they just need extended, not that difficult to fabricate. Might need to alter a little floorboards inside for the tranny, not sure how big the tranny is compared to the 727 pushbutton, but hey, you have gages to worry about, engine and electronics, and yes, Gearvendors is just down the street from me, but sorry, I don't think they are worth the price. Good units, but a little pricey for an overdrive unit. 
 
dana442010-02-11 02:44:36
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Snotty

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« Reply #42 on: February 11, 2010, 10:43:31 AM »

Ed, the last post on this thread was Jan. 5.  I think it's dead....
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Steve

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« Reply #43 on: February 11, 2010, 11:12:24 AM »

It's a pipedream anyway
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late model drivetrain swap
« Reply #44 on: February 11, 2010, 12:00:47 PM »

Quote from: POLARACO
It's a pipedream anyway

Pipe dreams are only dead when a person dies.
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