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Author Topic: Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block  (Read 13438 times)

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #60 on: February 21, 2010, 08:21:29 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Quote from: dana44
PRETTYYYYYYYYYY.

I never said it was easy, just that it was effective in the improvement of flow, thus power, thus efficiency.
You have a problem with these plusses?

   
 
No. . .I just needed an butt to kick last night.  
 

Bottom line, you can pull a set of ported heads that have been polished and look at them after 1000miles or 100,000miles and you will see polished clean spots, washed areas, black carbon and oil smeared spots. Running down a racetrack only, with full throttle for 6-12seconds is one thing, they will work just great, but on the street, idling, slow rpm cruising, rpm below 5000 for years are going to be dirty. Now take those same heads with the roughness of the carbide burr cutter and do the exact same thing to them and they will be ninety percent clean, no oil and carbon smeared in spots, no washed areas, and a set of heads with 100,000miles on them will be the same cleanliness as a set with 1000miles on them. Literally, the heads on my 361 out of the Charger were ported at 125,000miles, bronze guides installed, original valves ground and original seats left in (don't need no stinking hardened seats). That was back in 1981, third or fourth set of heads I had ported at that time. I drove the car until 1991, put a nice 100,000miles on her, and the sparkplugs were fouling a couple out, figured cheap bronze guides or rings. Well it was neither, it was the valve stem umbrellas. So, in 1999, out comes the engine, pull the heads, chambers are clean, can't tell which cylinders are having oil problems, ports are clean, no carbon build-up, no oil, slight carbon powder in the cylinders, and since I couldn't do the valve job myself thinking I needed guides, I took them to a recommended head shop. I hadn't cleaned them, figured they would be dipped, checked (225,000miles by now), shave them to clean them up, guides and grind the valves. He said he would call in two days to give me an estimate, which he did, first saying the guides are fine but someone really screwed up these heads. I asked him what he meant, he said with the few miles on the heads, and the condition of the guides, the valves had been overground on two of them and needed replaced. I asked him how many miles he thought were on the heads, he said between 2000 and 6000miles, which is why he said they were put together poorly. I told him the original valves had been ground twice, that here was 100,000miles on the last regrind, 225,000miles total, to which he said was almost impossible, there only needed to be .002 to make these heads square and he cleaned them with a parts brush, no dipping or blasting needed.



The key is the way the carbide burr cutters make these tiny little rice-sized little cups in the surface. They may only be .0005 -.001 deep, but they keep the fuel and air from sticking to the sides and surface of the ports. Because the fuel and air gets near these little pockets they curl towards the flow, not collect more that passes (kind of like the prevention of plaque in arteries), whereas polished surfaces have grooves on the surface, similar to driving on a road with lots of nice smooth seams, you still feel them and junk catches in them (like fuel, which then evaporates the elements out of it, leaving a residue, and oil, etc), which once you get up to high speed rpms skips over the top of them through velocity, but not at slow speeds. Carbide burr cutter surface is like the circus game of tossing the pingpong ball into the bowl, it takes a ton of practice and a certain angle to get it to stay, and if it is a bunch of lines you can toss that same pingpong ball all day long and it will stop much easier, higher speed tossing will have them skip off. Here is a nice selection of burr cutters, I personally like using the one about the size of the end of my index finger for most of the work to get good curves, and one pointed the size of a ballpoint pen to catch the little ridges around valve seats and the likes. There are wide cut ones for aluminum, small cut for steel, and they are very durable, but I did have a set of Cadillac 4.9 heads that really wore one of my bits out, very hard to say the least. At the bottom of the page, SC-5 and SF-5 are the ones I like. 
http://www.carbtools.com/
dana442010-02-21 13:27:04
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #62 on: February 21, 2010, 02:06:55 PM »

I love adjustable rockers for proper adjustment, whether you need them or not. Set them at zero lash for the best accuracy, just touching and not that extra 3/4 turn, just extra pressure for no reason.
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #63 on: February 21, 2010, 04:55:30 PM »


Ok Hansome

We're up to the oil pump.

What do you want done in here besides taking the sharp edges off?  I see the pick up tube area could be opened up a bit

POLARACO2010-02-21 21:55:53
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glen cyr

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #64 on: February 21, 2010, 06:23:50 PM »

I know the Hughes rocker system is good as it's simmilar to the system i am using, only i'm running 1.7" rockers,but i question this expence on a fairly stock build for only about 10-15 hp. The stock magnum valvetrain is actually very good and i would throw that $350 at a windage tray and attachment bolts for a lot less ($89 providing you do not have the truck oil pan as this may not fit) and also the alt underdrive pulley for the alt. and crank from hughes ($47). So for about $150 you have 2 items that may be worth at least 15-25hp .

Glen
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #65 on: February 21, 2010, 06:40:33 PM »

Already have the windage tray,
 
What is an Alt underdrive Pully?  Are you talking about the alternator?
 
I have been in between on the rockers.   I thought I would throw it out there and see what you guys thought.  However, if I had the money, I would use them for the friction, accurace, wear factors and over all performance.  I have allot of torque coming, any additional HP would be appreciated.  It's certainly not the cost of stroking it.
 
Lowering the pounds per HP is a good thing.
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glen cyr

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #66 on: February 21, 2010, 07:11:33 PM »

Hughes #1880, 25% underdrive alt and crank pulley. The power that the 130 amp alts puts out at idle is still more than enough as these cut down on drag and is easier on the waterpump,p/s pump and even prolongs belt life. http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=category&level0=U21hbGwgQmxvY2sgTWFnbnVtICgzLjkvNS4yLzUuOSk=&level1=UHVsbGV5cw==&partid=25542





I agree, the roller rockers are a very nice upgrade.    Glen
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #67 on: February 21, 2010, 07:35:43 PM »

Ahh
 
The problem with that is I have a low voltage situation at idle.  But I'm thinking it has to do with those Gell Cells.
 
That's a good idea Glen!  Thanks!!!  That will probably free up 10 HP that way
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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #68 on: February 21, 2010, 08:33:18 PM »

[/QUOTE]
Lots. Get all that rough slag out of the flow passages. The pump is right side pickup suction side, left side pressure side. Starting at the right side where the pickup tube comes in, open that area up, where the lumps are, see how far the pickup tube goes into the housing and make sure the rest of the housing doesn't come past the end to slow flow. The sand casting surface in there is like flowing through a culvert, need to make it so it is like flowing in a plastic pipe, nice and smooth, and widening it a little isn't going to be bad, the sharp edge sits against the pump vanes so leave them, don't round them, use the outer ring of the pump guts to make sure the center piece is the outside edge of your side removal (make sense?).  Left side, see that small hole at the bottom? This is a tricky one. Rotation is clockwise for the rotor, you are looking at the bottom of the pump, so if you look at it upside down it would be turning counterclockwise and  the oil is coming in from the top left casting mark and then into the hole. You want to again get rid of the texture, but also remove part of the 90 degree downward lump located top left so this waterfall isn't so steep (make it more of a slide than a waterfall), it will slow down and reduce/eliminate cavitation and flow smoother, smoother flow means less friction, less friction is added hp/tq because it doesn't take as much to push the oil through. Back to the feed hole, bottom left, taper that hole from the slide into the hole (leave the little waterfall at the bottom left alone, but the wall above the hole can be pocketed just a little bit right above the hole on that wall (makes the oil have a pool to run into before getting pushed into the bearings, a little pocket above the oil hole on the far wall stops it and makes is curl towards the hole but still allows enough to continue to lubricate the pump parts (kind of like a silt fence....looks good, doesn't do much of anything). From there, look at the top and at the rear main it attaches to and make sure there is extra area for oil to be in standby reserve, meaning this side also has that nasty sand casting area, smooth it out and if it opens up a little bit but still smaller than the gasket passage, it's still porting, right? The oil volume is controlled at the rear main, the pump will flow as much as the engine is capable of taking without forcing it this way.
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #69 on: February 22, 2010, 05:03:33 PM »

That's what I figured when I looked at the channels. 
 
I need to get a couple of small stones for the dremel for the channels.  I don't want to use a burr in there as it will be too aggressive to get the smoothness.
 
So this motor is going to be named Murphy.
 
So far
The ring set was 1 ring short
I am short one valve spring retainer. (Short shipped,  on the way)
I had to exchange the main bearings twice. . .   The first set were the wrong size and the second was defective.
I had to have the crank ground twice.  My Pal drove a rod into a journal and I had to have another 10 taken off the rod journals
I have to wait until March 4 to get my rod bearings. . .
 
Meanwhile, I have crap all over the place and stuff is getting lost.
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Stitcherbob

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #70 on: February 22, 2010, 10:41:17 PM »

yeesh....who does your parts searching, Mr Magoo? Too many screw ups for one job



Now explain to the nice folk here why you didn't have fuel line hose on those rod bolts when installing the pistons....


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Stan Paralikis

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #71 on: February 23, 2010, 05:18:02 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO

Here.  Save this as a handy reference to when you have to round up all your parts.  We don't want any parts left over.

 

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #72 on: February 23, 2010, 06:38:52 AM »

Don't feel bad, Thursday I had a city guy come out and tell me I didn't need a soils report to build the garage, then this morning at 7:15 they call to tell me when I was told I didn't need a soils report I misunderstood the words, "No, you have a DG base (decintegrated granite) and not worried about it at all." I used to think this little sleepy town of National City was this way because it was a bedroom community for San Diego, but as it is turning out, it is incompetence and idiots running the place.
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #73 on: February 23, 2010, 06:55:00 AM »

[/QUOTE]


 
Two Letters
 
TJ
 
You know how he likes to yap.  You and he get along great.  You're both double sided DVD's on repeat.     He wasn't paying attention as his gums were flapping a mile a minute, you know what I means.  Grabs #7, stuffs is in the hole and uses my 8 ounce soft face to set it.  It goes 3/4 in, and stops.  Instead of looking, he get's a bigger hammer    
 
100 bucks later
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #74 on: February 24, 2010, 11:56:30 AM »

Thank You Hughes!
 
POLARACO2010-03-01 16:36:39
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