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Author Topic: Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block  (Read 13169 times)

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #30 on: February 11, 2010, 09:42:59 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
BTW Ed
 

I'm hoping that's supposed to be .003, as in three thousandths? That, believe it or not, is well within stock tolerance.
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #31 on: February 11, 2010, 04:35:13 PM »

Quote from: dana44
Quote from: POLARACO
BTW Ed
 

I'm hoping that's supposed to be .003, as in three thousandths? That, believe it or not, is well within stock tolerance.

Yeah



I've been having allot of brain gas lately.
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #32 on: February 11, 2010, 04:41:15 PM »

well, here's the crank installed. . . .  I finally got the missing ring so I can start filling jugs.  (My ring set was missing one oil ring)
 

 
If Ed explained it right, this is what you are supposed to do to the edge of the valves.  You are supposed to take the sharp edges off with a file and/or emery cloth
 


 
Which one is done?  LOL   The top one has the polished edges.  (I think)
 


 
And for the Finale
 


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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #33 on: February 11, 2010, 04:50:45 PM »

Looks good so far, keep it up.
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #34 on: February 11, 2010, 05:02:28 PM »

You saw the markings around the one cylinder. . .The sealing ring is right on the edge.  It's the same on the other head too
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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #35 on: February 11, 2010, 07:01:31 PM »



Lea

When Ed mentioned about shaping the intake to the gasket, he meant to take a intake gasket and mark the head so you can bevel the intake to meet the gasket.  This eliminates restrictions.

See the marks at the bottoms of the ports.

ALSO!
Look at the picture of the finished head.  You are to mark your head with a gasket to be sure you don't go past the sealing ring.


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Steve

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #36 on: February 13, 2010, 05:08:02 PM »

Incredible
 
You guys have heard me talk about TJ, my buddy.  TJ could talk Bob under the table. . . .
 
Anyway, he came over to help me set the pistons.  He has a better ring compressor and my 3/8 torque wrench is busted, so he brought his.
 
Make a long story short, He started on Jug #8 and drove the rod right into the crank.    Now I have to have the crank reground on the rod journals.    The rods were .010 so we'll have to go an additional 10.
 
There is a silver lining.
 
I took the main caps off and pulled the crank.  I checked the bearings to make sure they were OK before putting them back in place.  On #4 Cap, I noticed what looked like a gouge in teh bearing.  Turns out the bearing had a radial crack in it about 1/2 and inch long.  So I carefully removed the bearing from the cap to see if something was trapped under it.  Then I realized there was no scuffing on that spot from the crank.  Nothing under it.  Called Summit, new ones are on the way and they are taking to rod bearings back in trade as well.  They even paid for the return. 
 
I'm glad it all happened now.  That could have been a disaster if I hadn't looked.
 
POLARACO2010-02-13 22:08:49
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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #37 on: February 13, 2010, 06:16:59 PM »

No kidding.
 
And on top of it all, all the porting and recommendations I gave would have been blamed first and foremost, I put money on it!
 
Don't feel bad, I had a TRW cam for a Caddy 390, put it in and it was a little tight, took a little tapping to get it in, so tried to turn it, without any luck, so forcefully pulled it back out, along with the cam bearings, took the cam down to my mentor's place, stuck it in the lathe, put a dial indicator on it, .005 out of round on the three center journals, so yeah, it happens, just glad you caught it early, I have a 361 out of my Charger sitting alongside the garage  (seasoning it, that's it, seasoning it some more, yeah, that's the ticket), rod knocking. I thought it was a knick on a journal that I scraped a journal when assembing her, then polished it up and replaced the bearings, thought it was good. For some strange reason, after the rod started knocking around 38miles from Bakersfield on the I5, I limped it to town, had a storage place allow me to leave it there a couple days, and when I tore her apart, turned out I had like ten lobes scraped on the Crower cam (solid of course). Crower replaced it in a heartbeat, but still, one never knows what is going to be wrong after assembly.
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Steve

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« Reply #38 on: February 13, 2010, 07:11:10 PM »

It happens
 
I ordered more plastiguage so I'll check them again.  Over and over.  LOL
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« Reply #39 on: February 19, 2010, 02:02:30 PM »

Hey Ed!

I'm CCing the cylinders and glad I did  I'm between 63.2 and 65 CC right now on one head.

Question. 

How close should I get these?

Lea. . .you may have to wait a few more days for the tools.


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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #40 on: February 19, 2010, 02:38:54 PM »

Since everything is going to be low rpm, get them within a CC wil be more than close enough, it's just a little bit of touching up in the smaller ones a little bit. That takes them within about five psi of each other, which is well within the ten percent compression number of each other.
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firedome

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« Reply #41 on: February 19, 2010, 03:00:59 PM »

Are you doing a 3 angle grind on the valves?, if you're going to all that effort you might as well...

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« Reply #42 on: February 19, 2010, 04:27:20 PM »

Quote from: firedome
Are you doing a 3 angle grind on the valves?, if you're going to all that effort you might as well...

Done already
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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #43 on: February 19, 2010, 04:33:06 PM »

Quote from: dana44
Since everything is going to be low rpm, get them within a CC wil be more than close enough, it's just a little bit of touching up in the smaller ones a little bit. That takes them within about five psi of each other, which is well within the ten percent compression number of each other.

I'm going to target .4 and take her from there.  That will put it within 3% or 1.5 (Approx) 
 
I didn't get the internal hardware balanced, but the piston assemblies are within 2 grams of each other and the crank shop did true the crank the first time, they said it was out about .2* when they were done.  But now that I had to have the rods reground, they got the rods dead nuts on.  So the final talley is about 1.5* which is way better than the +/- 5 degrees of stock grinds.
 
POLARACO2010-02-19 21:42:36
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Leaburn Patey

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Performance/economy upgrades for Mopar Small Block
« Reply #44 on: February 19, 2010, 05:23:04 PM »

The B&M flexplate for 360's is a solid investment.
James who has built a pile of 360's swear by them.
Great for convertor swaps eliminating  the need to weld weights onto them and re-use factory harmonic balancers on the cheap.
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