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Author Topic: 9 1/4 rear: Running great!  (Read 2517 times)

Steve

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9 1/4 rear: Running great!
« Reply #60 on: March 16, 2010, 07:53:15 PM »

You weren't here for the big one. . .But we'll save that for discovery.
 
I know he will do it. . . It's untested waters for Stan.  I know Stan the best of any of these guys. . .  He's done a good job so far, but paid a price.  Right Stan?  Proud of ya son.  LOL
 
As mentioned above, without the proper tools, you'll probably be going in there a few times.  Not your fault. . .  You got this far.  Almost there.
 
We need you to describ your scream.   Like I said, Drain plug is a good idea
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9 1/4 rear: Running great!
« Reply #61 on: March 16, 2010, 11:30:58 PM »

Rule number one when fighting dirty is always kick a man when he's down, it's easier...... nice change to the title (that's a case of sarcasm there if you didn't catch it).



Stan, howling is usually bearings or metal touching metal when it isn't supposed to.
First thing to do is drop the driveline, drop the tires, pull the cover and look for pieces of metal. A slow rotate should show something chewed or extra shiny in a visual inspection, or a chatter on the surface against something. Once this is done, a pinion set too deep or shallow can make a howling, the axle C clip rod and set bolt can touch, preload on the sides can howl if the mesh is too tight, so telltale signs first, I'll keep an eye out here tomorrow to give a few pointers.
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #62 on: March 17, 2010, 04:54:21 AM »

As far as the ribbing, I know when it comes from these guys, it comes with love.  Doesn't bother me a twit because It's all in fun.  I'd worry if there was no ribbing.
 
That aside, I waited all my life to retire so I could finally get down and dirty with my cars.  Did I absolutely have to change the gears?  Absolutely not.  I did it because I always wanted to and now I can (money mot withstanding - LOL).  I'm going to step back a few days and let my muscles recover and clear my head.  I'll dive back in and 

Steve

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« Reply #63 on: March 17, 2010, 06:16:27 AM »

I think what he is describing is probably gear lash.
 
If I could get him to explain what it's doing and when. . . .  .  He could have the gears too loose too
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #64 on: March 17, 2010, 06:35:54 AM »

It's a totally audio thingie.  How do you describe a "whine"?
It whines when you go above 35 - 40.  Load or no load.
After I clear out my head in a few days, I'll go back in and start from scratch.
And don't yell at me when I call you.  You make me cry!

Steve

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« Reply #65 on: March 17, 2010, 07:05:29 AM »

Sounds like the gears may be too tight.  But they do quiet down after a while.  However, leaving them too tight will eventually wear the hardened surface off the gear face.  That would take thousands of miles.  I know mine made a mild whine at 60, and has been quieting down.  It took 12,000 miles on the 355's.
 
Now I need to change the rear bushing on the trans to get rid of my harmonic vibration.
 
I found a very low mileage (4500 Miles)  294 sure grip rear locally for $100 bucks.  I think I may go for that and put this rear in the 68.  The vert has 323's, sure grip, so I may go with that too.  Not sure until I drive it. 
 
POLARACO2010-03-17 11:08:44
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Stewart Van Petten

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9 1/4 rear: Running great!
« Reply #66 on: March 17, 2010, 08:35:51 AM »

When I have installed new pinion and ring gears I made sure that I had the correct mesh pattern in the test ink before I buttoned it up. Did it look like it was meshing properly when you did your install? Did you check with a dial indicator how much lash you had? Sometimes you still get some gear whine even when everything is setup correctly. I am not sure why though.
 
As the gears go through the break in process the machined surfaces go through a work hardening process. The surfaces that mesh get red hot and are quenched with the gear oil which makes the gear surfaces harder and more impervious to wear. This is why it is importand to let the differential cool down completely after some short runs and gradually it will break in. If the gears get too hot it can change the hardening process on the rest of the gear. If you pull the cover and inspect the gear closely if there are still machine marks on the gears then they are not fully broken in.
 
Good luck with your project!
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Steve

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« Reply #67 on: March 17, 2010, 10:18:20 AM »

Interesting
 
Stan. . If you don't have any dye, use some spray White Lith Grease.
 
Open her up, spray the greas on as far arpound as you can, and rotate it until it comes back out.  Then take the best picture you can of that and post it.  Leave it open until Stu, Ed or I get back to you.
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« Reply #68 on: March 17, 2010, 10:26:53 AM »

Stan, I know the ribbing is all in love, but there seems to be a limit that ol' conservative me care to read, again and again and again. It all got buttoned up faster than I thought, so yeah, at this point, when the soreness goes away, white lithium grease paint the teeth on the ring gear and then rotate all the way around. The teeth aren't getting touched, or messing together toghether properly, and it is either shimming the pinion, unshimming the pinion, or changing the lash side to side, but gotta see what the pattern is to make the determination.
 
 
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Steve

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« Reply #69 on: March 17, 2010, 01:40:20 PM »

Whaaaa Whaaaaa   
 
He is right on target Stan.  That's why I asked for the picture
 
ED  FYI. . One of the reasons we rib on these threads is to keepm up on the baord so they don't get timed out.  We're not supposed to be farting around in the Tech section.
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #70 on: March 17, 2010, 02:29:52 PM »

This is what I love about down here in Fumbuck County.  We have some great mom & pop businesses. 
I talked to a shop that specializes in drivetrains.  He said to bring it in, we'll put'er up, pop the plate and he'll l examine it with his expert eye.  I'll take it from there. 
And I feel safer that way.

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9 1/4 rear: Running great!
« Reply #71 on: March 17, 2010, 05:40:04 PM »

I like he ribbing and the fun over here and all that, I am just a little sensitive about seeing abuse to a certain extent. There is ribbing and there is slamming a person because "everybody does it", so to Stan, good for you for putting up with the male cow excrement, I have your back.
Ed
 
dana442010-03-17 21:42:47
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #72 on: March 17, 2010, 06:06:32 PM »

Right now, as I look back, my money is on the pinion shims...
That's a real hassle because to add/subtract shims, you have to remove (and probably damage) the bearing and then press it back on.  Reinstall everything, and then do your measurements.  If not dead on, disassemble and repeat.  And in the meantime, you better have a stockpile of crush sleeves,  PLUS, going b&f to the machine shop 10 mi. away to pull and press the bearing...  Sheesh.

Steve

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« Reply #73 on: March 17, 2010, 06:31:01 PM »

Thats why we asked you to take pictures.  We can tell.
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« Reply #74 on: March 17, 2010, 10:04:29 PM »

The cover will be popped, the gear will be painted and then determine which direction it will have to move and it will be done with one more crush sleeve and whatever shims, or the side play will be adjusted and no pinion stuff will be left alone.
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