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Author Topic: Carb rebuild  (Read 430 times)

Andy

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Carb rebuild
« on: October 29, 2009, 08:16:22 AM »

It's probably a dumb question but I want to make sure I'm ok before I scew up an old carb.
 
I'm rebuilding an old 4 bbl off a 69 383. Never rebuilt and "extremely" greasy, grubby and dirty. I have to do this in the basement and, unfortunately, I don't have a parts washer. I'm also planning to spray it with Eastwoods Carb Renew Bronze Set paint after I get it cleaned to give it that "new" look.
 
I'm going to need something "strong,"  and a good scrubbing, to get all the 40 years of crud off this carb. The strongest thing I can think of, besides carb cleaner, is brake cleaner.  This a good idea or you  think I should just stay with the carb cleaner?
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firedome

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Carb rebuild
« Reply #1 on: October 29, 2009, 09:02:05 AM »

There's a great CRC product called TYME that works super, you just soak
the whole thing in there for a day or 2, disassemble and rebuild.
Cleans amazing. We used it for auto type carbs on I/O boat engines at
the marina... good stuff, and no parts washer needed. When I bought
some last year a gallon was about $30 I think, but you can re-use it
many times.

firedome2009-10-29 13:03:52
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Snotty

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Carb rebuild
« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2009, 09:48:09 AM »

I always use a carb cleaner can that has a basket in it in which to "dorp" the parts.  Probably the same stuff that 'dome is talking about.  However, most of the air-horn and carb body won't fit.  (Perhaps I purchase too small of a can?)  Therefore, I dip all of the internal parts and screws. 
 
For the air-horn and body I use a basic Carb Cleaner in an airisol can.  That stuff will remove all of the old gas and grease from those larger parts.  Watch it though; use rubber gloves!  That stuff can eat your skin away.
 
You don't mention a carb rebuild kit.  While you're doing all of the work, get a kit and rebuild your carb while it's out and apart.  Perhaps you are and just didn't say so....
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Steve

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Carb rebuild
« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2009, 10:16:11 AM »

NAPA has a degreasing product which is quite good.  It comes in 5 gallon pails.  Yan use that, but cam use it for cleaning other parts too.  It's a bit pricey, but it will work well.  It will remove any of the stuck varnishes in the carb as well.
 
I would do the carb first then soak other parts.  It's a high alkeline, which is what the pro shops use.
 
Another one is Laquar Thinner, or accetone.  Accetone is used in Carb Cleaners.
 
A real good carb cleaner is Berkable 2 + 2.  Wall Mart has it.  That stuff will strip just about anything. Rinse with the Laguar Thinner before painitng.
 
Use compressed air to make sure all the passages are open.  There's a few real tiny ones which are hard to see.
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Stitcherbob

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Carb rebuild
« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2009, 10:20:40 AM »

Ok guys....he said "in the basement" so I'm guessing he can't use flammable or smelly stuff.

Get either Fantastik or Ultra One's great degreaser http://www.ultraoneusa.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=11&cat=Ultra+One+Degreaser and go ahead and soak it whole. Brush it with a stiff brush and rinse with clear water. Now you can either blow it with compressed air before disassembly, or take it outside and spray with carb cleaner (I like Berkbile 2+2 Gumcutter....it's an alcohol so it will get the water out). Brake clean will get it dry too, but wont cut the varnish like the Gumcutter will. Best part about this way is the degreaser can be in a 5 gallon spackling bucket with a lid so you can keep using it all winter (or until it's molasses thick and black!)


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Stitcherbob

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Carb rebuild
« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2009, 10:21:50 AM »

hmmmm musta bean ESPN....or is it ESP?

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Snotty

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Carb rebuild
« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2009, 10:22:22 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
 

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Snotty

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Carb rebuild
« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2009, 10:23:01 AM »

Quote from: stitcherbob
Ok guys....he said "in the basement"
 
What's that?
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Steve

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« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2009, 10:45:08 AM »

That's because Bob Lives in a basement
 
So that stops him from soaking it outside and rebuilding it in his basement?  Or what about the NAPA cleaner I mentioned?  Sheeesh
 
Time for some more Pepsi Bob
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Andy

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Carb rebuild
« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2009, 02:51:50 PM »

OK, looks like carb cleaner is the popular choice. I'll have to do the best I can with the spray as I don't have compressed air to blow out the carb! WAIT! Just had an idea! (Some would say that's dangerous!) Canned air that I use to blow out the dust from the PC!

It's gettin a bit chilly around here now and the garage isn't insulated or heated yet. Been "working" on that for the past 5 years now and it never seems to get done. So I have to move into the basement and be VERY careful with the smells or the wifeNAGGRO kicks in and my life becomes miserable until the smell is gone!
 
Yes I do have a new carb kit to rebuild the carb

 
Thanks to everyone for all the answers, suggestions and help.
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firedome

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Carb rebuild
« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2009, 04:16:23 PM »


TYME is not flammable and no smell to it - very safe, it's a cold parts
cleaner, no petroleum in the base... you can get it at most NAPAs. you
get a gallon and just soak it in a bucket or whatever, disassemble,
take
out all the jets etc, blast out al the orifices with comp air as
mentioned, good to also use a mechanics wire to make sure,  and
rebuild it using a kit. Make sure you follow the float adjustment
procedure with the kit. We did hundreds of 2 stroke and also 4 stroke
auto-type carbs on MerCruisers that way, since boats often sit too much
and get varnished up and clogged.  30-40% of our boat motor
repairs were just that. Most of the rest were PITA I/O rubber bellows
or lower unit water pump impeller issues and such.  You can use
the TYME over
and over again too. IMO it works far better than spray carb cleaners.

firedome2009-10-30 20:18:41
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