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Author Topic: 727 Pan Leaking  (Read 3543 times)

Jason Medhurst

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727 Pan Leaking
« on: August 18, 2009, 06:40:37 PM »

I just had my transmission rebuilt (albeit by a company that went under 1 month after it was done!  I have all the luck).
 
The transmission is shifting really well now, but I am fighting what appears to be a pan leak.  It looks to me like the leak is coming from both the edge, but most of the fluid is on the bolts.  I know this can be a tough one to cure.  Any ideas?
 
Also, I notice that if I leave the car and don't drive it for several days, when I start it up, and put it in gear, it takes a little while for the fluid to get moving.  The car gets moving slowly.  If I gas it, it gets going faster.  Almost like it has lost its prime.  After this, its fine for a while.  It did this before the rebuild also. 
 
My personal opinion of the guys that rebuilt it was they were reputable.  They were just caught up by a tough economy.
 
Vick Ferrari2009-08-18 23:42:51
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Rich

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2009, 09:23:22 PM »

Get one of the new rubber/steel gaskets for a modern Chrysler auto trans (The 518 model I think) it should stop the leaks. 

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Stitcherbob

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2009, 10:46:07 PM »

They probably overtightened the bolts....you may have to hammer and dolly the pan flange to straighten out all of the holes.

BTW I always glue the pan & gasket on with high tack sealant....it's gonna stay on there a long time anyway....


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Stan Paralikis

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2009, 02:53:19 AM »

Quote from: krautmaster
Get one of the new rubber/steel gaskets for a modern Chrysler auto trans (The 518 model I think) it should stop the leaks. 

Absotively 110% in agreement.
They're around 25 bucks and well worth the super-premium price.

Steve

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2009, 12:49:34 PM »

And who taught you that lesson?
 
As Bob said, they were probably over tightened.  Flatted out the bolt ho;es with a ball pien hammer as Bob described and ise a 1/4" drive ratchet to put the pan back on.  Or, get that gasket Stan mentioned.  It's the sa,e one for a 518 if it's a 727 trans and a 500 if it's a 904
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Stan Paralikis

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2009, 04:30:06 PM »

Quote from: POLARACO
And who taught you that lesson?

    yes, it was you oh great and wise master.

Tom Dawson

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2009, 06:04:23 AM »

Quote from: Commando1
Quote from: POLARACO
And who taught you that lesson?



easy on the old but kissing  Stan
Tom
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Steve

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #7 on: August 20, 2009, 06:35:47 AM »

He needs to kiss my Butt.  He needs a favor
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Snotty

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2009, 09:33:03 AM »

I had this happen to me once on my Van. 
 
When I drained and pulled the pan I saw that I had "rolled" one end of the gasket.  Ever since then, when I install the pan I put silicone sealer on the pan and both sides of the gasket and then thread each bolt through the pan into the gasket.  The gasket will hold the bolts in place while you line up the pan to tighten.  I have not had a leak since.
 
I buy the basic, cheap gaskets.
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Jason Medhurst

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2009, 08:19:24 PM »

Thanks guys, so replace the gasket, should I get the aftermarket aluminum pan? 
 
Also, any ideas on the slow reaction of the tranny when I start the car after many days?  Is it the tc draining??
 
J
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Robert Rottman

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2009, 05:15:47 AM »

Quote from: Vick Ferrari
Thanks guys, so replace the gasket, should I get the aftermarket aluminum pan? 
 
Also, any ideas on the slow reaction of the tranny when I start the car after many days?  Is it the tc draining??
 
 
This "slow reaction" happens to my 70 Fury when I'm low on transmission fluid....especially when it's cold outside. I'm thinking its not very cold in AZ right now though....Check your fluid level especially since it's been leaking. Also...may certainly be a no brainer to you...but I've seen many times before....guys just pull the dipstick and look at it and say it's ok...Car must be level, up to temperature and in neutral...read dipstick for exact way to check level...some say to check level in Park if I remember rightly.
 
Also....I had leak problems right after my 69 Fury transmission was rebuilt. The o-ring on the fill tube was not sealing properly...The guy claimed he put the correct o-ring in there...I wound up taking some of the trans. fluid out via a big syringe with long clear tubing on it right down the fill tube...then cleaning both surfaces up real good with rubbing alcohol and then I used high temp RTV on the end of the fill tube right over/around the o-ring...waited for it to set up 24 hours and refilled the trans....never had a problem again.
 
Wipe your entire pan, bolt heads and up around the top of the perimeter of pan too with an old rag...clean it up real good...then watch where it's actually seeping from...When my fill tube was leaking, it was very apparent that the leak was starting from the fill tube/transmission fill tube hole but it wound up dripping from the pan/bolts and everywhere from the perimeter of the pan...This sure looked like the pan gasket was the culprit...but it wasn't. Especially after driving the car...It blows all over the place from the air currents. Wipe it down real good and you'll find the source of the leak.
 
Best wishes to you
Bob 
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Rich

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #11 on: August 21, 2009, 01:18:30 PM »

You HAVE to check the fluid hot with the trans in neutral. It helps a lot if you put the car in neutral right after you start it, so that the pump will fill the converter back up. It only takes 20-30 seconds. Many TF's have this situation after sitting for awhile.

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Jason Medhurst

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #12 on: August 21, 2009, 06:38:13 PM »

Thanks Bob, yes, I always check fluid warm or hot and level with car running.
 
The level looks good to me.  I wonder if these torque converters lose their prime while sitting.  That would explain its behavior.  Again, it only happens when I drive it after sitting for some time.  Otherwise, it gets in gear normally.
 
I hate doing something more than once.  I think I am going to cover my bases, get new bolts and gaskets for the bolts, and a new stiffer and flatter pan.
 
I had read elswhere to buy the gaskets from a later model vehicle.  I read that there was a chnage in the gasket that went to more of a plastic material than rubber.  Maybe to reduce the chance of cold flowing the gasket.
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Steve

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #13 on: August 22, 2009, 03:06:46 AM »

The pump is draining out.  Common.  You can put a check valve in the cooling line or just start it in neutral.
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Brian

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727 Pan Leaking
« Reply #14 on: August 22, 2009, 07:52:22 PM »

When you have the pan off to replace the filter and gasket throw one of these on the pan as well....makes changing the fluid WAY easier and very little mess.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B-M-Automatic-Transmission-Drain-Plug-Kit-80250-New_W0QQitemZ330353377001QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4cea987ee9&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
 
I've installed these on all my 727 for some time now and they work great...no leaks.  I install it near where the dipstick comes down into the pan.
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