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Author Topic: Intake stuck  (Read 957 times)

attkrlufy

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Intake stuck
« on: June 09, 2009, 04:10:55 AM »

So here's what I've been up to lately:




But I've hit a wall.  I've removed all the side bolts on the intake but I can't get it to lift off the engine.

Anyone have this problem before?  How did you get the intake off?

Also, while we're on the subject of intakes - what's up with the stuff in mine:



I've never seen one of those brass-thinggys inside an intake before (not like I've looked inside many intakes, though.).  What does it do?  And does that hole on the driver's side opening mean I'm missing a brass thinggy?  This is a 1979 360 w/ thermoquad set-up, BTW.














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1979 New Yorker - 360 4v, 2.71:1 rear, factory moonroof, factory road wheels


Brian

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Intake stuck
« Reply #1 on: June 09, 2009, 08:19:46 AM »

Well the intakes can get a little stick from being torqued down for so many years.  Whack the front of the intake with a hammer and see if it pops loose, or you can try and wedge in a small pry bar or big screwdriver near the front conners of the intake, by the head and pry it up and loose.   My take some muscle but it will come off.
 
As for the things in your intake, these are part of the EGR system.  When the EGR opens up it allows exhaust gasses from the crossover to flow up into the intake manifold.  Can't recall why and what it does to the fuel charge.
 
 
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Brian

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Butch Houghton

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Intake stuck
« Reply #2 on: June 09, 2009, 08:20:11 AM »

Those are Floor jets for the EGR system,  normal on a late  70's.    And no there isn't a pipe plug that fits!   They're a strange thread so just leave em'.   If you were to block off the EGR on the intake they won't do anything anymore.  If you have to leave the EGR working for emissions just make sure they're cleaned out.   

If you're absolutely sure you have all the bolts out ( double check! ) then the intake is just stuck by the old gaskets.     Use a small Screwdriver or putty knife & go under it in a few places to break the "sucktion " & it'll  come off.  

Since you're there this is a good time for at least vale seals & a timing set if you haven't done that yet.   You can do the seal on the motor with the right tool,  local parts house might have a rental you can use.   I did this years ago with an Aspen we got with about 125K & smoking a bit out of one side.   As soon as I got it home tore the 318 down to the shortblock in the car,  hand-lapped the valves & stuck new seals on( I have a Vavlespring compressor ) cleaned everything & put a timing set in & buttoned it up,   car  never used any oil or smoked after that & we ran it to close to 200K & not even 100.00 to do at the time.

Course you could pull the heads & have them done correctly too with new guides if needed & seals & a real valvejob.    All in how far you wanna go at the time.   Course then you might as well do the shortblock too!   LOL!  IT NEVER ENDS! 

I realize if you've basically got a decent running engine most don't want to go that far.   The seals are usually toast by 100K as well as the timing chain/gears....just cheap insurance.

Butch


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attkrlufy

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Intake stuck
« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2009, 03:52:04 PM »



Quote from: HemiFury
Since you're there this is a good time for at least vale seals & a timing set if you haven't done that yet.
What's this "timing set" thing you speak of, exactly?  When the water pump comes out, access to the timing chain cover will be easy......after all, it's right there.  DARN IT.  Now I'm considering adding it to "the list" and I don't even know what it is. 

So this "timing set" - is this something I can do with basic tools and basic car repair knowledge?  Are you talking about doing something with the timing of the engine?

Quote from: HemiFury
Course you could pull the heads & have them done correctly too with new guides if needed & seals & a real valvejob.  Course then you might as well do the shortblock too!   LOL!  IT NEVER ENDS!
TELL me about it.  This started as a simple radiator removal, new hoses and carb swap.  But I keep rationalizing doing more and more work because "Well, I'm already there....might as well do [fill-in-the-blank], too."

Oh well, I've always wanted to learn how to do this stuff..........and I sure am learning a lot. 
attkrlufy2009-06-09 20:52:28
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Butch Houghton

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Intake stuck
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2009, 07:42:38 AM »

Sorry.....Timing set = Timing chain & gears.

Yep,  soon as you get the pulley & damper they're right there behind the timing cover.
Cheap too,   summit Double roller....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6603/

Knowing how the factory nylon-coated gears can fail it's a good idea.     If the timing slips going down the road from the nylon failing & the chain jumps you can bet the valves will smack the pistons.   Seen it before.  Yours might have been changed,  if you have'nt done it you just don't know.  It's worth the piece of mind.

You need a timing gasket set too,   it'll have everything for the front that you took off.   And obviously an intake gasket & valvecover gaskets since you have them off.  

Valve seals are another story,     take a light & look in-between the coils of the valve springs.   you should see a black umbrella-shaped seal that rides on the valve stem of each.   If they look intact try to poke the with a small screwdriver & see if they're still soft.   Most likely not at 100K.   they're usually cracked & or broken.  

If they're soft & you don't want to go any further leave them.     If they're hard & broken there's 2 ways to go about it.     They can just be changed on the car.    You pull the rocker shaft ( the 5 bolts across the shaft ), bring each cylinder up to Top & either pump air into the cylinder or use rope to fill the chamber through the spark plug hole to hold the valve shut & you get a specific tool that compresses the vale spring to let you get the Valve  spring keepers off & take the retainer & spring off.   The seal just slides off then & you change 1 at a time.

To me it's just easier to pull the head & put it on the bench!   Only thing is getting the exhaust manifolds off,  they can be a bear sometimes.    You have to have the manifolds off to reach the bottom head bolts.

If you take the heads to a shop for a valve job & seals the might want to replace the valve guides too if they're worn.    Can get a bit expensive.

just all in how far you wanna go!

Butch


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Butch Houghton

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Intake stuck
« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2009, 07:45:11 AM »

Oh yeah....you are going to clean & paint the engine right?   LOL!

Plasticote & Duplicolor both have a decent Chrysler Blue  & can be gotten at most parts houses.

Butch


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Snotty

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Intake stuck
« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2009, 09:36:08 AM »

Did you get the intake off?
 
I don't like the suggestions of prying - there's too much possiblilty of breaking something that shouldn't be broken.  Tapping it with a light hammer should "break" it loose.  Oh, that thing will be HEAVY!  Watch your back when you lift it off.
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Steve

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Intake stuck
« Reply #7 on: June 10, 2009, 02:01:44 PM »

Here's the Plasticoat color.  Very close.  It's wrong for a big block
 

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attkrlufy

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Intake stuck
« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2009, 04:31:59 AM »


Quote from: Snotty
Did you get the intake off?
Oh, that thing will be HEAVY!  Watch your back when you lift it off.
I got it!  ...though I had to use my favorite wrecking bar - "The persuader."  But after a little persuading, it popped off.



Ooof!  You were right.  That thing is surprisingly heavy.

However, now that's it's off, I have a few new questions/concerns - but I'll post them later.  Right now, I'm glad I was able to give it a pretty good cleaning yesterday - though it was so dirty, I'm still not done.





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attkrlufy

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Intake stuck
« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2009, 04:35:58 AM »



Quote from: HemiFury
Oh yeah....you are going to clean & paint the engine right?   LOL!
Yeah, right.    I'll give the valve covers and intake a good painting, and clean the rest the best I can - but this is an "engine in" series of repairs, you know?

There's no way I can get it looking like Polaraco's post.  Though I'm surprised the fuel pump and water pump were painted.  Aren't those usually left their normal metallic color?
attkrlufy2009-06-12 09:38:40
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Steve

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Intake stuck
« Reply #10 on: June 12, 2009, 06:12:27 AM »

No they are painted at the factory.
 
May as well replace the water pump while you have it off.  I assume you are doing the timing chain. . . .
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Butch Houghton

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Intake stuck
« Reply #11 on: June 12, 2009, 08:31:46 AM »


A lot of stuff was painted on the engines



HemiFury2009-06-12 13:32:15
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attkrlufy

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Intake stuck
« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2009, 12:33:23 PM »


Quote from: POLARACO
May as well replace the water pump while you have it off.  I assume you are doing the timing chain. . . .
The water pump will EVENTUALLY be replaced.  One of the bolts is stuck and I'm out of ideas on how to unfreeze it w/o snapping the head off.  I don't want to use heat because there's a lot of aluminum there.  Even though the about-to-be junked water pump doesn't matter, the timing chain cover is aluminum and I want to keep that.  Heat + aluminum = bad idea.

Sure, I'd like to redo the timing chain....but I have no experience with engine timing, it's next to impossible to get help out here if I do screw something up, and my FSM says I need all these specialty tools that I simply don't have.

How about it Polaraco?  Feel like taking a 4hr. road-trip (each way) to Ithaca, NY to help me out? 

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Andy

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Intake stuck
« Reply #13 on: June 13, 2009, 01:00:10 PM »

I'm sorry, please don't take offense, BUT, that is the ugliest engine color I've ever seen! Looks like it could be an engine color for my friends suzuki x-90, the car I call "Cartoon Car!"
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Butch Houghton

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Intake stuck
« Reply #14 on: June 14, 2009, 07:09:59 AM »

Not real crazy about the Blue myself but,   correct is correct & the customer is always right!   lol!      When I had the 78 Aspen I couldn't paint that one blue,   it went orange.   As a matter of fact,  just did Nephews 75 duater & I gave him the choice....Blue or Orange.    He went Orange!

Since you can post pics okay,  if you get into the Timing set everybody here could keep you straight on the install with them.

Only real special tool is the Damper puller,   you could rent it since it's common or go to Sears & buy one.    You can also use them to pull a steering wheel.

You can do it!

Forget the heads,  more work than you probably want!   If it's not smoking or using excessive oil then it's okay for now.

Butch


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68 Dart GT - 394 Stroker/6 Pack
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70 Sport Fury - 383 Magnum FK5
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