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Author Topic: 318 pinging  (Read 5484 times)

Robert Rottman

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318 pinging
« Reply #30 on: June 03, 2009, 10:24:03 AM »

Snotty Radiator looks great from the outside but who knows...I've owned the car 4 years now...Don't know when it was redone. I just took thermostat housing off...There's a 195 deg. thermo. in there....which is good...I'm going to put a 180 in there..but want o flush system like Stan said....Trying to figure out which heater hose is the return...I'm thinking its the smaller dia. hose that goes to the top of the intake manifold...Is this right??
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Snotty

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318 pinging
« Reply #31 on: June 03, 2009, 01:20:46 PM »

Brother, I don't know and am not at home to look it up.  Sorry.
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Robert Rottman

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318 pinging
« Reply #32 on: June 03, 2009, 02:19:29 PM »

Thanks Snotty....I figured it out...The return is the larger hose that goes back to the top of the water pump. I flushed the system and removed the thermostat for now. There was a 195* in there! Without the thermostat the temp. needle rises just above the C...at about 10:00 oclock and goes no higher....I cleaned the plugs, set the points to .017" and timed it to TDC-(spec). She runs beautiful now and so far no pinging...I think the thermostat was making her run too hot...We'll see though...Thanks to all...
 
furyfever2009-06-03 19:20:48
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Steve

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318 pinging
« Reply #33 on: June 03, 2009, 02:44:31 PM »

It was cool today so that's possible.   Look in the top of the rad and see if the tubes are all clustered over with white stuff.  That's called Solder Bloom.  If it is, a Rad is something to consider.  The New Solders don't do that.
 
Also, if it's not too late, don't fill the rad just yet with antifreeze.  After you flush the system out, put some "Dawn" Dish Detergent in the system.  You want to put a real long squirt in.  Drive the car aound like that for a while, then drain and flush until the suds go away.  This works on the sludge in the bottom of the block and keeps that and rust suspended until you flush.  When you do the final flush, drive the car around, then drain.  It will take all that stuff with it.  Flush the heck out of it
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Robert Rottman

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318 pinging
« Reply #34 on: June 04, 2009, 04:16:21 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
It was cool today so that's possible.   Look in the top of the rad and see if the tubes are all clustered over with white stuff.  That's called Solder Bloom.  If it is, a Rad is something to consider.  The New Solders don't do that.
 
 
No didn't see white stuff in the radiator Steve...after running the Prestone flush it looks pretty clean in there...no white stuff at least on the top...I still have water in there and no thermostat so I'll squirt the Dawn in there...and run for a while like that. I flushed iengine for a couple hours yesterday afternoon....blew water through heater core seperately too many many times....Lots of junk came out of there...blew it both ways...junk was still coming out by the time I was done...I had to give up my back was giving out. Is it possible to get a lower than 180 thermostat?
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glen cyr

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318 pinging
« Reply #35 on: June 04, 2009, 06:07:56 AM »

Stant makes a 160 degree one.
 
Glen
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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #36 on: June 04, 2009, 06:11:20 AM »

Thanks very much Glen, Since I drive this car mainly in the summer months, I think that would be the way to go. I'm going to look for this Stant 160......
 
Bob
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #37 on: June 04, 2009, 06:20:36 AM »

One word of warning.  Running a too cool a thermostat (e.g. 160) doesn't allow the oil to run hot enough to do 100% of it's job.  The additives, especially the detergents, which prevent deposits, are formulated to work at a very high temp. They work better at 180.  Even better at 195.  195 is too hot down here, especially the way 440's crank out BTU's like a runaway nuclear plant, so I have settled on the 180.
Commando12009-06-04 11:23:46

Robert Rottman

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318 pinging
« Reply #38 on: June 04, 2009, 06:39:42 AM »

So it's quite the trade off huh Stan? Running too hot makes the motor ping...running too cool might keep the motor oil from doing its job...Oh...decisions decisons...I'm running 10-30 motor oil now...If I go to a cooler thermostat...could I compensate for it by running differnet oil? I never understood that stuff either... 
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Steve

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318 pinging
« Reply #39 on: June 04, 2009, 07:05:06 AM »

180 is not too cold.  The oil will work the same.  Remember, you have a higher compression ratio than the modern engines have.
 
You could use synthetics. . . . That would eliminate sludge
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Robert Rottman

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318 pinging
« Reply #40 on: June 04, 2009, 07:21:30 AM »

Steve, Caught you Post skipping?....I was considering the 160* thermostat...Stan said to be careful with that one because the oil wouldn't get hot enough...Then I was wondering if I could compensate with a different oil that would work better at 160*....The reason I'd like to go to 160* If I remember right, I ran a 180* before the fiasco with the timing cover holes/coolant leak into the crankcase. It pinged then too...
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Steve

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318 pinging
« Reply #41 on: June 04, 2009, 08:43:48 AM »

I dunno about the 160 though. . .  I saw that. . . . I just neglected to comment.
 
Now I know it was pinging with the 180.  That I didn't see.
 
I don't jump rope here, but it's a juggling act to keep on top of all this. . . .  Since you don't run it in the winter that often, then you can try the 160 and go for synthetic oils.  Mobil one used to be the best, but do some research now.  Your change intervals will go down too.
 
The only thing I worry about with the 160 is condensation in the engine.
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Snotty

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« Reply #42 on: June 04, 2009, 09:53:11 AM »

I use a 160 with no problem Bob, but the temperatures here got over 100 in the summer. 
 
Stan is correct about proper oil temp, but unless you are drving your car 100 miles a day, it's not really an issue.  If you are a typical old-car driver, you're doing less than 20 miles at a time, and then only once a week.
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Robert Rottman

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318 pinging
« Reply #43 on: June 04, 2009, 10:06:25 AM »

Snotty, Do you use the 160 year round?...and what type of oil do you use? I'd really like to go with the 160, but what about the times in the spring and fall when it's 40-50 degrees outside? I guess I'd feel better if I use an oil that will not let me down in all these conditions...
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Matt Aker

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318 pinging
« Reply #44 on: June 04, 2009, 03:39:43 PM »

Stick with the oil you've been using but install a new coil.  Trust me, it'll werk. 
 
The 180-degree t-stat IS correct, so I'm eliminating the obvious.
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