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Author Topic: Starting a warm 318...  (Read 2007 times)

Steve

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #30 on: May 04, 2009, 11:02:49 AM »

The metering rods are inside the carb.  You have to take the top off to see them.  On the Carter, they are in the back of the bowl.  2 skinny little rods which go to 2 jets in the bottom of the carb.
 
If someone would return my parts, I could take a pic of it
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Snotty

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« Reply #31 on: May 05, 2009, 11:16:40 AM »

Quote from: furyfever
Snotty...I don't even "gun" my car when I'm going down the open highway. I never open it up which some people especially my brother...says you have to once in a while "to clean it out"! So the answer is no, I never gun it before I shut it off
 
Good, Bob, glad to hear it.  (That practice used to really tick my Dad off!!  Which is probably why I dislike burn-outs to this day, except at a drag strip.)
 
However, don't ever let me drive your car or your brother will get his wish!! 
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Steve

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« Reply #32 on: May 05, 2009, 12:31:25 PM »

I can Imagine. . .
 
It's all the snacks he stores in his right foot
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Snotty

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« Reply #33 on: May 05, 2009, 03:12:22 PM »

Vroom, VROOM!!
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Arlen Vander Hoff

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« Reply #34 on: May 09, 2009, 05:23:14 PM »

I was told or read somewhere if you "gun" the engine before you shut it off it fills the float bowl with gas and the car will start better next time. I take it you guys don't buy this? Sooooooo its not a good idea?
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Snotty

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« Reply #35 on: May 11, 2009, 09:38:19 AM »

Ar, if your fuel pump is properly workling your bowls should be full anyway.  If you are just idling before shut off, all should be full. 
 
Here's the thinking for being aganst such a parctice:
 
When you shut off your motor at idle, it is turning somewhere between 600-850 RPM.  When the key is turned off the motor will spin several more revolutions before stopping.  Each revolution produces vacuum; that vacuum will continue to draw fuel into your cylinders.  No big deal.  However, when a motor is "gunned" before shut-off, it is turning between 1,500-2,000 RPM.  At that speed, the number of revoultions before the motor finally stops spinning is greatly increased and draws in much more unburnt fuel.  Unburnt fuel in the cylinders creates a leak-down condition on the piston rings, causing pre-mature wear. 
 
What that theory supposes is that the practice of "gunning" leads to earlier deterioration on a motor, especially in the cylinders, casuing early burning of oil.
 
Whether that's true or not I'm sure will be debated now that I've written it, but that is why I was taught not to gun the motor before shut off.
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Arlen Vander Hoff

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« Reply #36 on: May 11, 2009, 03:58:45 PM »

Yikes!!! OK no more "gunning" for me!!!! I don't need any help tearing stuff up!!!
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Snotty

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« Reply #37 on: May 12, 2009, 09:11:15 AM »

OK, now, on Global Warming....

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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #38 on: May 18, 2009, 06:53:50 AM »

Well...after the carburator swaps and a reasonable amount of driving time on both cars...the problem seems to have dissapeared and it didn't move to the 69 Fury...Its gone!!...Is it possible the fuel pressue is greater on the 70?? and the 69's carb has a better needle/seat that can hold the fuel out better? The reason I theorize this is because I rebulit the 69's carb a few years ago...I have no idea how old the 70's carb rebuild is....It's one of thise things that make you go....."Hhhmmmm"
Bob
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Steve

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« Reply #39 on: May 18, 2009, 08:28:18 AM »

No  You may have had a oiece of crud in there and you dislodged it when you moved the carbs around
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Snotty

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« Reply #40 on: May 18, 2009, 12:11:41 PM »

Glad to hear you got it worked out Bob! 
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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #41 on: May 18, 2009, 06:25:18 PM »

Well... I don't know how I got it worked out Snotty...I'm not sure I buy Steve's theory (piece of crud in there and you dislodged it) because I had that 70 carb apart last summer trying to fix it...I checked the float level and I found it to be too high...Thought for sure after adjusting it to spec. it would have fixed this problem but it didn't....Now that I have it on my 69 it decides to work properly? I didn't plan to leave the carbs swapped...I have not adjusted the chokes yet because I thought it was just going to be a quick test...I guess I'll get in there now (when they're hot) and set up the chokes properly and go with it  this way...at least for the summer. Thanks for the encouragement though brother Snotty. That always goes a long way.
 
furyfever2009-05-22 08:56:44
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Snotty

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« Reply #42 on: May 19, 2009, 08:49:23 AM »

Anytime my friend!
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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #43 on: May 20, 2009, 04:15:58 PM »

I guess I jumped to a wrong conclusion. Drove the 70 today...80 degrees here...still has 69 carb on it...It started hard after a 10 mile drive + 20 minute rest...HhmmmmI guess it isn't a fuel problem after all. Steve...I'm thinking your thoughts now...Percolation. The darn thing runs cooler than my 69 (according to the temp gauge)...Maybe its time to borrow a thermocouple reader from work and take temp. readings on both cars...in the same locations on the motor. What would be the best location to choose? top of water pump?
 
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Stan Paralikis

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« Reply #44 on: May 21, 2009, 02:55:37 AM »

I'm still sticking by my advise for a new starter....
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