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Author Topic: Starting a warm 318...  (Read 2382 times)

Steve

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #15 on: April 30, 2009, 07:57:26 AM »

OK  I have it now. . .
 
Your rad guy probably suggested a new rad core for other reasons too.  They get "solder Bloom" in them which clogs the tubes.  If you look at the tops of the tubes and see a bunch of gunk around all the tubes, it's time.  This restricts cooling too.  Even though the engine is running normal by the gauge, they aren't that accurate.
 
As well as Stans suggestions, I suggets you confirm you have a 180 Stat in there.  I'm pretty sure the 180 was the correct size for back then.
 
I suggest you get the rad recored also.  That leak isn't much, but I bet the tubes are clogged.  Getting the actual temps down matter while running and afterwards.  A good rad will bring down the shut down temps which is where the problem lies in this case.  Even though your engine is off, you still have static flow.
 
Rambling. . .It's not as simple as some people think
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Steve

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« Reply #16 on: April 30, 2009, 07:59:37 AM »

[/QUOTE]
 
Sorry. . I was out building a diet pepsi can skulpter.  That's Important. . . . isn't it?
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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #17 on: April 30, 2009, 09:19:12 AM »

Thank you Stan...Thank you Steve...Thank you Roger...Sounds like it's either cooling and/or carburation then. I could swap the radiator and carburator one by one out of the 69 and into the 70 to pinpoint the problem...It sure would have been much more convenient though when I had the 69 all apart!  DOH!! Why do I always think of these things afterwards? It sure would be nice to get rid of this problem...like I said...it's mucho embarrassing at cruise nights/shows etc.
 
Bob
 
furyfever2009-04-30 14:21:37
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Steve

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« Reply #18 on: April 30, 2009, 10:23:15 AM »

I'm leaning towards the rad.  A real good block flush helps too.
 
Old mechanics trick
 
Put some Dawn dish detergent in the rad and run the car for a while.  Be generous.  It loosens the crap in the block and suspends it.  Reflush the system afetr some driveing time and refill.
 
The only other way is to knock out the freeze plugs and flush it out that way.  But it's best to pull the engine for that so you can get them all.  That will help get water completely around the cylinders. and take the heat off.  Besides.  If those are the original plugs, it's time
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Ken

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« Reply #19 on: April 30, 2009, 04:30:31 PM »

Another thing that could be happening along with the heat-soak situation is the diaphragm in the fuel pump could be weak, not moving the fuel and allowing it to be "boiled" when the engine is hot.

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Steve

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« Reply #20 on: April 30, 2009, 04:57:41 PM »

True, but the needle should handle that
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Dan Cluley

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #21 on: April 30, 2009, 05:34:00 PM »

I don't have a mini-starter, but this is my understanding of the advantage:
 
They are either geared differently, or draw less current than the old style.  Therefore they crank your engine over faster, so it has a better chance of starting.
 
 Sort of like the difference between how it starts in the summer and how it starts in the winter when it's 10 below and the battery is half dead.   ;)
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Arlen Vander Hoff

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #22 on: May 02, 2009, 05:33:55 PM »

Ok heres the deal its an old Mopar not a Ferrari, mine does it too a lot of 'em do that its the nature of the beast.  Even after it sits at work all day "on a warm day" it still cools off to the ambient temp outside ( say its 75 degrees outside the block cools down to 75 or cooler under the hood in the shade) So its gonna start up like its cold because it IS COLD for an engine 75 is cold for something that normal operating temp is 180-195 degrees.
As long as it does start thats the main thing.
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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #23 on: May 03, 2009, 05:22:40 PM »

Ok...I've always suspected that this is a carburator problem...that's why I put it under tech-fuel...so to finally put this suspicion to rest I swapped carbs tonight...69 to 70...and 70 to 69...Now I'll see if the problem moves from car to car....if not, I'll be doing everything to cool my 70 down like Steve says...(even though the temp. gauge says she's fine)....If that's the case, I better figure out what's going on with the sender/gauge too...
 
furyfever2009-05-03 22:38:26
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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #24 on: May 04, 2009, 08:18:36 AM »

Alright....now I need  the advice from you carburator specialists. Please read my post from last night...after doing the carburator swap...the 70 runs/starts just like my 69 did now. I went out at lunch...it fired right up...drove it for a few miles...shut it down for about 20-25 minutes...it fired right up...none of that cranking cranking cranking stuff....It's the carburator! I knew it acted like it was flooded...Why does a carburator dump fuel after it's turned off.? Like I said before, I checked the float level on the 70's carb...It's set to spec...I don't want to rebuild it if I don't have to...would just like to fix this fuel dumping problem. furyfever2009-05-04 13:20:22
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Steve

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« Reply #25 on: May 04, 2009, 08:54:04 AM »

Worn metering rods, or mismatched jets to the rods.  Bad needle and seat, fuel pressure too high from the pump. . .
 
Perculation will cause the carb to dump, which is what we have been discussing.
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Snotty

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« Reply #26 on: May 04, 2009, 08:54:27 AM »

Do you "gun" your motor right before you turn it off?  (An old practice that I still see people doing today.)  If you do, your motor will turn several more revolutions before it stops.  Each revolution will create vacuum that will draw fuel into your intake and then to your cylinders.  It's not a good practice but would answer the question of fuel in the intake....
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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #27 on: May 04, 2009, 09:58:06 AM »

Snotty...I don't even "gun" my car when I'm going down the open highway. I never open it up which some people especially my brother...says you have to once in a while "to clean it out"! So the answer is no, I never gun it before I shut it off...I'm an ultra conservative driver...(a characteristic of maturity I guess). I'm convinced it's a carb issue...percolation would be a cooling the block issue correct Steve?... If it was that wouldn't it still be starting hard with this carb too?? I guess I should rebuild it then...
 
Bob
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Steve

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« Reply #28 on: May 04, 2009, 10:38:07 AM »

Perculation is a heat issue, yes.
 
A while back you asked about a fat gasket.  Does the 70 have that and the 69 does not?  (Maybe I ghave that mixed up.)
 
They put that gasket in there to reduce the perculation.  I am trying to rule out what you have going on.
 
Take the needle and seat out and see if there is a deep groove worn into the needle.  The rubber ones usually seal better.  You'll need to look at it real close with a magnifying glass.  Look for even contact on the rubber or brass.  If it's rubber, look for cracks.
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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #29 on: May 04, 2009, 10:56:07 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Perculation is a heat issue, yes.
 
A while back you asked about a fat gasket.  Does the 70 have that and the 69 does not?  (Maybe I ghave that mixed up.)
 
They put that gasket in there to reduce the perculation.  I am trying to rule out what you have going on.
 
 
At the time Steve...The 70 had one and the 69 did not have one of those thick gaskets...They both have them now....Yes...I thought about taking a close look at the needle and seat...only because I knew what those are...The other things you mentioned earlier...What were they now jets..metering rods...don't know what those are...so they can't be my problem right? Thanks Steve...Not sure if I can do it tonight..but I'll get to it soon....Anyways the 70 is running beautiful now...at the expense of the 69 Big Red is still waiting for me to finish fixing the hood molding anyways...(She can't come out till she's purrrfect...) I bent it when I removed the hood That was a real bozo move...Thanks for looking after me Steve...I appreciate it!
furyfever2009-05-04 15:59:49
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