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Author Topic: Starting a warm 318...  (Read 2386 times)

Robert Rottman

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Starting a warm 318...
« on: April 28, 2009, 05:28:56 AM »

As some of you know...I have a 69 Fury and a 70 Fury too...both with 318's...My 70 Fury does something very different from my 69...When warmed up and then shut off for more than 5 minutes...I starts hard...almost like it has flooded while sitting there...This lasts for hours afterwards...Less than 5 minutes of rest...she starts right up fine...I thought it was the carburator float level...so I checked the float level and it was set too high...but after readjusting it to spec...problem still exists...Anybody have any thoughts on this?...any first hand experience? Thanks, Bob
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Per Therkildsen

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2009, 06:05:35 AM »

Mine does the same 70'Satellite 318.
 
But i have this thought, that my gas vaporize from the carb. because it smells of gas over the carb. when turned off.
I might not be right, but i will follow this post to see what comes up.
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Steve

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2009, 07:20:47 AM »

I'm thinking peculation.  But 5 Minutes isn't that much
 
Couple of questions.
 
How hot is the engine?
Do they both have the same thermostat in them?
When was the engine/rad flushed last.
What kind of shape is the rad in?
 
I ask because my 71F3 did the same thing.  Then I did the rad and flushed the engine.
Problem almost all gone
 
Perculation is a very common problem on Mopar, especially the big blocks.  If you have them well cooled, they'll be fine.
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Robert Rottman

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2009, 09:16:25 AM »

Steve, Temp gauge looks very normal....(below center). I do have a small issue with the radiatior...I have a small leak at the top header which drips a little when I top it off and then it stops dripping after the level drops a little...but the gauge never goes above 1/2 way even during the summer months. I went through the cooling system last summer when I cleaned out the intake. New thermostat...(185 or 195 deg. - don't remember which one I got now) new hoses and new coolant. I had the small leak at the top of the header soldered at that time, but it did not fix the leak....The guy said I'd need a re-core if that did not fix it...just haven't gotten around to getting the re-core yet...Anyway...I had the problem before all these new parts and after them too...but the radiator is the one common item here...leaked before and leaks after too...Could a small laeak at the top be the culprit here? THe temp gauge doesn't show anything abnormal...Thanks...You say perculating huh?..never heard of that in a car before...don't know what that means...I know when I'm perculating...that's not good news for anyone around me
 
furyfever2009-04-28 14:21:40
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Per Therkildsen

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2009, 10:01:48 AM »

Quote from: furyfever
You say perculating huh?..never heard of that in a car before...don't know what that means...I know when I'm perculating...that's not good news for anyone around me
 
 
Well i dont even know when im doing it  because i dont know what it means.
And that Rad thing you talk about means ??
 
Furyfever i hope it ok that i join you here, same problem.
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Robert Rottman

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2009, 10:24:02 AM »

Quote from: 70Satellite
 
 
Well i dont even know when im doing it  because i dont know what it means.
And that Rad thing you talk about means ??
 
 
Per, I don't mind at all that you're joining in here on this same problem. I hope we can get them both figured out...Steve mentioned perculation. That's what a coffee pot does...I think...I added a little joke...when I'm perculating, I have gas....so everyone around just might have a problem too...You know what I mean?  We all are made basically the same so anyone could say this too...Hopefully Steve will let us know what perculation in car actually means. 
 
About the Rad...(radiator)...I have a small leak in my radiator at the top header...that's the junction at the top tank and core (cooling fins). It's not a real bad thing in my opinion because it still holds almost all of it's coolant.
 
Now I'm thinking though....Why don't I have serious leakage here...when pressure builds up it should shoot out of that little hole...even though it's at the top...Maybe I'm not building up pressure? Bad radiator cap too? What do you think Steve?
 
Bob
 
furyfever2009-04-28 15:39:12
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Per Therkildsen

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2009, 05:17:08 AM »

Well my engine does not get too hot, but i dont know how hot, but i would say normal temp. it doesnt boil under long slow cruising.
And i have no leaks on the water side, but my carb needs new gaskets i think, i just have to find them.
 
Actually i was wondering as you said you had a leak in the radiator, you should loose water when on temp.
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Robert Rottman

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2009, 05:58:02 AM »

Quote from: 70Satellite
And i have no leaks on the water side, but my carb needs new gaskets i think, i just have to find them.
 
Buy a carb rebuild kit at your local parts store...You'll need carb #...on a little tag hanging off one of the top screws. Hopefully its still there after all these years.
 
Actually i was wondering as you said you had a leak in the radiator, you should loose water when on temp.
 
 
You know when I shut this 318 down...there's a lot of ticking and clicking going on...like things are cooling down....sounds like expansion & contraction of metals etc....My 69 does not do that...I wonder if this is the perculation that Steve is talking about. I wish others would chime in here...Where are you all???
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Robert Rottman

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #8 on: April 30, 2009, 03:38:34 AM »

Per, I don't know what's going on here...These guys are usually right on here to help/ give advice...but so far it's just you and me and one reply from Steve. They must all be on vacation or something....
 
WHERE ARE ALL YOU GUYS? WE COULD USE SOME ADVICE HERE!
 
Anyways, I was just reading a post just below ours here..."Carb drains"...Read that in the mean time...Do you think that's what we're experiencing with our cars???
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Per Therkildsen

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2009, 05:10:32 AM »

Now i have read it, and that could be what happens, and i saw a post here on a Danish forum and there they also said that they changed the starter for a mini thing.
Not that i can see what it has to do with each other.
 
But i would like to know, so please someone tell me.
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Stan Paralikis

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2009, 05:13:55 AM »



[/QUOTE]

All right.  All right.  It looks like I have to come to the rescue here.  Sheesh!  Youse guys....

1. Upgrade to a hi-torque starter and I'll bet most (if not all) of your starting problem goes away.
2. You're not losing much coolant while the engine is running because the coolant is circulating.  Stop the circulation and it will pee out that hole like a race horse.
 
Commando12009-04-30 10:15:25

Robert Rottman

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2009, 06:02:41 AM »

OK...everyone but Stan is on vacation....Thanks Stan!  Mini Hi torque starter huh? Don't have one on my 69 and it doesn't do this hard start when engine warm thang...Hmmmm.
 
Per...Does your car do exactly what mine does? Read carefully....If I shut the car down after a drive (where the engine comes up to operating temperature) and try to start it right back up...It catches (starts-fires-runs) immediately like it should...If I wait a minute or two, same thing...it fires right up...The hard start only happens after about 5 minutes....maybe a bit more...haven't actually timed it (that's an estimate)....and it lasts for hours....I can come out after a full day of work and it will start hard (if it's warm or hot outside)...After a full night of rest, the car will be totally cold and start normally again...This problem only happens when I'm running around making stops and the car stays hot...but again, initially (first time) it doesn't happen immediately...takes 5-6-7 minutes to rear its ugly head. Yes, It's embarrassing at shows/cruise nights etc...Oh...when it starts hard, I have learned to not touch the gas pedal...if I do, it's much worse...acts like it's flooded...The only way to start at that point is to put the pedal to the floor. That's why I thought it was a fuel issue which is why I put it in this Tech-Fuel area of the forum...Thanks, Bob 
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firedome

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #12 on: April 30, 2009, 06:23:37 AM »

Percolation is when engine heat soak can cause the fuel lines/carb to
get hot enough that fuel can begin to vaporize, leading to hot starting
problems... I wouldn't think 5 minutes of  running would do that
though, and it usually wouldn't take hours to go away. I'd suspect some
kind of carb problem would be a possibility, it wouldn't hurt to do a
rebuild, make sure you don't get an over rich condition that could
cause carb flooding and hard starting... I'd see carb heat soak
sometimes in boat engines I worked on in their enclosed boxes in the
transom if blowers weren't turned on and/or a fresh air bilge vent hose
became detached.



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Steve

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #13 on: April 30, 2009, 07:17:12 AM »

Sorry Bob  I''ve been distracted with my own stuff and skimming the forum.
 
Let me read back and give you my "exspurt" opinion
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Per Therkildsen

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Starting a warm 318...
« Reply #14 on: April 30, 2009, 07:35:18 AM »

Now i have read it carefully(very s l o w) so i think i understood it.
And i think my problem is the perco-rize thingy, and i need to find a rebuild set for my Carter.
 
 
Still i cant see what the starter has to do with it, come experts explain please.
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