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Author Topic: What's the best way to pull an engine?  (Read 2001 times)

Steve

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What's the best way to pull an engine?
« Reply #45 on: April 19, 2009, 06:45:24 AM »

You forget? After all we've been through, you forget? Oh Polaraco, where did we go wrong?

All kidding aside it's a 68 Sport Fury Conv. without A/C. I'm pretty sure it has more than 4 blades. 5 blades seems right, off the top of my head. I was just thinking a shroud would help keep it cooler.


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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What's the best way to pull an engine?
« Reply #46 on: April 19, 2009, 03:36:38 PM »

A shroud won't hurt.  5 Blade would be a later car, like a 72 or 73 small block with Air.  If the blades are flexible, then someone swapped it
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Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Steve

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What's the best way to pull an engine?
« Reply #47 on: April 25, 2009, 03:47:14 PM »

It has a 7-blade fan and I think that's correct (maybe 440-only?). Here's a picture from the 1968 Plymouth Fury brochure that supports this belief.




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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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What's the best way to pull an engine?
« Reply #48 on: April 26, 2009, 07:02:02 AM »

**********UPDATE**********

I took her out for a little cruise yesterday. It was fun, but surprise surprise, there are some issues that need to be addressed.

1) Transmission shifts are long and not very positive. Although I must say she does accelerate hard.

2) When I'm applying my brakes while driving at low speed, the engine will sometimes just stop for a split second and sometimes stall.. It doesn't do thins if I'm moving in neutral, so it's like the trans or torque converter isn't releasing properly (related to shift issue?)

3) When I start the car cold, when the engine just starts to run, the car lurches forward a bit. I don't think it does it when its warmed up but I could be wrong. Kind of odd. (Could all these transmission issues be related?).

4) When I got back home, I could smell the brakes. I then saw little wisps of smoke coming from the passenger-side rear wheel. I installed new brake shoes all around and installed new brake springs. Also cleaned everything up in the self adjuster. What causes brake drag like this? Do I need new wheel cylinders?

BTW, I ordered a complete set of shocks for the car (gas up front, air in the rear). Those will arrive Tuesday. If I need new wheel cylinders, now would be a good time to do them and get it over with so I can CRUISE!!!

If anyone has any thoughts on what is going on, I would appreciate any help!

Thank you so much,
Uncle Hulka


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Stan Paralikis

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What's the best way to pull an engine?
« Reply #49 on: April 26, 2009, 08:15:53 AM »


Quote from: Uncle Hulka
4) When I got back home, I could smell the brakes. I then saw little wisps of smoke coming from the passenger-side rear wheel. I installed new brake shoes all around and installed new brake springs. Also cleaned everything up in the self adjuster. What causes brake drag like this? Do I need new wheel cylinders?

BTW, I ordered a complete set of shocks for the car (gas up front, air in the rear). Those will arrive Tuesday. If I need new wheel cylinders, now would be a good time to do them and get it over with so I can CRUISE!!!

If anyone has any thoughts on what is going on, I would appreciate any help!



RE: rear brakes
How freely did the tire turn when you gave it a spin with your hand after everything was buttoned up?
Is the E-brake fully disengaged?
Bled properly?

RE: rear air shocks
I just put on a pair to compensate for the ass dragging.  No money to do it properly (i.e. new leafs ).
Check, double check, triple check the air lines.  Damn near impossible to keep them from leaking down.
Try and mount the TEE fitting with the fill valve in the trunk.  Filling it up from the underside gets tired reall quick.
Pump'em to 55#.  I find above that to ride like a one ton pickup.


Steve

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What's the best way to pull an engine?
« Reply #50 on: April 26, 2009, 10:22:07 AM »

Good advice! I wish I had the moolah for new rear springs, but not right now.

I thought I spun the rears after installing the SG diff, but I don't trust my memory anymore. Regardless, I just this second returned home from NAPA with 4 new wheel cylinders and two rear brake self adjuster rebuild kits (one kit per wheel). This should hopefully take care of my (latest) brake issues.

Any thoughts on what's going on with my trans? Don't know if it makes a difference, but it is a 1971 TF, not a '68.

Oh, on my brief cruise yesterday I learned two other things:

1) The original AM radio works perfectly!
2) I forgot how much I hate AM radio!


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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What's the best way to pull an engine?
« Reply #51 on: May 02, 2009, 05:04:55 AM »

I worked on the Fury last night and discovered/rediscovered a pretty serious electrical problem I can't figure out. I'm going to start a new thread in the Electrical section since it's not really engine related. I'll title it "Serious Brake Circuit Problem"

Hope to see you guys there.......


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396
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