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Author Topic: Control Arm Question  (Read 759 times)

Dan Cluley

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Control Arm Question
« on: August 13, 2009, 09:00:44 PM »

I've got the front end apart on the Dart.  As expected  the lower bushings are toast.
 
I'm a little concerned that there is too much slop in the arm itself. 
 
I can see that the center part (with the hex for the T-bar, and the arm for height adjustment) has to be able to rotate in relation to the main part of the arm, so that the height can be ajusted, but how much play is acceptable?
 
If I push it all the way to one side, I can get a .020" gauge in the gap, so there's approx .010" all the way around.  Is that normal or do I need to start hunting for replacement control arms?

 
D Cluley2009-08-14 02:05:38
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Snotty

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Control Arm Question
« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2009, 03:18:56 PM »

Isn't that where the lower control arm bushing's go?  If so, looks like you need a swap.
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Butch Houghton

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Control Arm Question
« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2009, 07:25:21 AM »

Pretty normal in that area,  Some have a bit more slop than others.  

Only thing you need to do there is replace that lower bushing for sure,  looks pretty shot.

You're right in that it has to be somewhat loose for the adjuster arm to move.   The clue that it's okay is that the hole looks to be concentric,  I.E. not wallowed out.   At least from that pic.  If you saw a lot of wear on one side then I'd say replace it.

No Snotty,  the arrows are'nt pointing at the bushing,  it's the rubber behind that shaft.    What he's questioning is the actual metal out side of the bushing.  That whole metal area that the bushing fits in swivels in the arm,  it also has the arm for the height adjust bolt to push against.

Butch


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Steve

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Control Arm Question
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2009, 03:31:55 PM »

Dan  I have the shaft puller if you want to tackle that bushing. . .  As you know, That's the first thing I go for on these.
 
You'll need th have it all pressed together.  First the bushing into the arm, then the shaft with something like a socket behind it.
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Dan Cluley

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Control Arm Question
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2009, 05:51:49 PM »

Thanks for the offer, but I actually got the shafts out pretty easily.   Soaked the old rubber with PB blast, and brake cleaner.  Then used a screwdriver to pry out a bunch of the old falling apart rubber.  At that point the shafts came out without too much trouble.
 
Used the dremel to score the inner bushing sleeve and popped them off the shaft.
 

 
[/QUOTE]
 
The FSM says shaft into bushing, then bushing/shaft into arm.  Does it make a difference which order?
 
 
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Steve

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Control Arm Question
« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2009, 06:34:59 AM »

I do it the other way.  It seems to work better for me.  I tried the FSM method, but it killed the bushing.  If you sink the bushing first, and pur a socket behind the inner sleeve, it goes togehter much nicer without stressing the rubber.
 
I suggest the bushings from Justsuspensions.  They seem to be allot better than the Moog.  And a bit firmer.  I was under there changing the oil a few weeks ago and took a peak. . .  The bushings are as pristine as the day I put them in a year ago.  Unlike the moog, which were sagging in 6 months
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Dan Cluley

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Control Arm Question
« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2009, 07:58:43 PM »

Quote from: POLARACO
If you sink the bushing first, and pur a socket behind the inner sleeve, it goes togehter much nicer without stressing the rubber.
 
 
That makes sense, and it worked well.  I know the guys at the transmission shop down the street and they let me use their press.  5 minutes of work and 45 minutes of shooting the breeze ;) and everythng is ready to go.
 
If it doesn't rain tomorrow, I'll starting putting it back together.
---------
 
Unfortunately this was kind of an unexpected project, so the budget didn't allow for the good stuff this time.
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