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Author Topic: Brake Conversion Kits  (Read 949 times)

Chas Knihght

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Brake Conversion Kits
« on: April 07, 2009, 09:41:09 AM »

Any suggestions on a kit for a '60 Dodge Seneca?  LMK, thanks Chas
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Steve

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« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2009, 10:07:05 AM »

My goodness. . .yer bizzy
 
www.aajbrakes.com
 
Tell Roger Steve from New Jersey sent you
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Chas Knihght

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« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2009, 03:31:29 PM »

Thanks for the lead.  Greatly appreciated.
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Jason Medhurst

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« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2009, 12:14:24 PM »

Does anyone know what else I will have to buy to make this jump from a 68 Newport?
 
I saw that the SSBC kit uses the stock drum spindles and comes with everything else.  No mention that the master cyclinder or booster needs to be changed.
 
Help!
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68 Newport Vert, 02 Chevy Duramax (421 RWHP), 05 Ford Excursion Powerstroke, 98 Jeep Wrangler, 95 Caddy Fleetwood LT1, 99 Honda Valkyrie, 97 Yamaha VMAX with Nitrous, 84 Honda CT70 trail bike,06 Rhino

Steve

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« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2009, 12:28:54 PM »

I made that jump several times.  I suggest you contact Roger at AAJbrakes.com for that info.  I did the conversion several times but I went with a distribution valve and the appropriate Master Cylinder.  I never did anything with the boosters and they worked fine.
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Snotty

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« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2009, 12:36:04 PM »

Vick, I swapped my '70 front drums to '71 Disks.  I thought I got a set form a '73 - WRONG!!  However, it all worked well, and sure makes a difference.
 
My point - places like SSB and others will charge you in the 700s for a kit.  You can do it fr a lot cheaper if you find a parts car and swap.  However  - AVOID A '71!!!!
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Snotty

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« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2009, 12:37:28 PM »

There used to be a collage of photos of the work on my swap on this site.  It was a great tool for what you're asking.  Alas, it vanished.
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Jason Medhurst

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« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2009, 12:38:04 PM »

If I found a 73 parts car, what would I need?  Are the kits they are offering the disks from a 73?
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68 Newport Vert, 02 Chevy Duramax (421 RWHP), 05 Ford Excursion Powerstroke, 98 Jeep Wrangler, 95 Caddy Fleetwood LT1, 99 Honda Valkyrie, 97 Yamaha VMAX with Nitrous, 84 Honda CT70 trail bike,06 Rhino

Snotty

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« Reply #8 on: June 05, 2009, 12:51:35 PM »


I take it back - here it is:
 


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Snotty

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« Reply #9 on: June 05, 2009, 12:57:02 PM »

No Vick, the kits are made of all-new parts.  They are good, don't get me wrong, but if you have a limited financail budget, getting parts from a wrecked car is a better way to go.  You can also get the prop valve from the donor car as well.
 
I got the parts, then purchased new calipers, rotors, hoses, bearings, and of course, pads.  I had the plates and knuckles blasted clean, and had the axle checked for cracks.  Finally, I purchased a disk-specific master cylinder.  Before I discovered that I had actually got parts from a '71, my total parts cost was less than $400. 
 
However, those '71 disks cost me that alone!
 
Going with a '73 set-up is a cheap, easy way to convert your car.  What you will need to learn, and what I don't know, is if you can use '73 knuckles on your '68.
 
Good luck!
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Jason Medhurst

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« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2009, 01:04:09 PM »

oh, yes, I know the parts are new, but are they the part numbers for a 73 Chrysler?
 
What parts did you take from the wrecked car?  Just the spindles?
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68 Newport Vert, 02 Chevy Duramax (421 RWHP), 05 Ford Excursion Powerstroke, 98 Jeep Wrangler, 95 Caddy Fleetwood LT1, 99 Honda Valkyrie, 97 Yamaha VMAX with Nitrous, 84 Honda CT70 trail bike,06 Rhino

Butch Houghton

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« Reply #11 on: June 06, 2009, 05:34:35 AM »

Personally I'll take the 73  factory setup anyday....if you can find it.

You can also use 69-late 72  dics,   the spindle & rotor are the only difference from a late 72-73 setup.     The 69-72 spindle has smaller bearings & thus a specific & costly rotor   the 73 went to a bigger bearing & the rotor is shared with van & trucks for a few years so that's why the rotor is less expensive.     Id' feel comfortable with either setup.

The problem with a lot of the aftermarket stuff is the rotor sizes,  original  C-body rotors were 11.75 X 1.25 thick,  the aftermarkets are only an 11 inch & thinner.   Still an upgrade over drums though & if it was all I could find I'd still do it.

The above will fit all the way back to 65 & uses the same control arms & balljoints as the drum cars those years.    If I found a wreck I'd take the Spindles, Rotors ( might still be in spec ) caliper adaptors,  calipers,  prop valve M/C & Booster if it wasn't to high on price.     See what still good & replace the unusable stuff,  nice to have the originals to compare with new stuff to make sure it's right.   Stuff like Calipers are cheap from a parts house.

I think ECI Brakes has a large rotor with their kit & uses alumium hubs so they might be worth a look too.

Butch


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Steve

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« Reply #12 on: June 06, 2009, 06:14:15 AM »

Right
 
The AAJ kit uses a 11" rotor from a B Body.  But it's made to be able to accomodate the 14" stock wheel
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Snotty

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« Reply #13 on: June 10, 2009, 09:56:41 AM »

Quote from: HemiFury
You can also use 69-late 72  dics,   the spindle & rotor are the only difference from a late 72-73 setup.     The 69-72 spindle has smaller bearings & thus a specific & costly rotor   the 73 went to a bigger bearing & the rotor is shared with van & trucks for a few years so that's why the rotor is less expensive.   


 
The main difference is the earlier disk is a two-piece design as opposed to a one-piece of the '73 and later.  Those earlier disks go for $400 and higher.  Avoid them!
 
One more thing.  When you do this, be specific that you are buying calipers for a C Body!  I was originally sold calipers for a B Body - they are too narrow!
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