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Author Topic: Changed Differential and now....HELP!  (Read 1085 times)

Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« on: February 28, 2009, 11:04:15 AM »

Once again I return to the well of knowledge. I really hope others can learn from everything I'm going through. I know I am.

Last week I replaced the 2.76 open differential and housing (a non original 1969 742) with a 3.23 Sure Grip in a 742 housing (unknown year, but the ring gear has what looks like a 1966 date code stamped on the same line of information that has the gear ratio. Everything I've read says that there are thrust block differences between pre-'65 and '65-up differentials.

Pre-65 differentials can be installed in post-'65 rear ends without any modifications needed IF the pre-'64 diff in question had sure grip. I make that statement because if true, I should've been able to swap in the new diff without any problems.

I have problems.

With both axles installed, I have WAY too much end play in both axles. Assuming that perhaps the right-side axle adjuster might need to be, er, adjusted, I proceeded to turn the adjuster in so I could achieve zero-end play in both axles, as the FSM says. I know that ultimately I need to achieve end-play of between .015 & .023 (from memory as I write this). The problem is that I've turned the adjuster in until it got hard like I ran out of thread. I still have like around .25 inches of end play!!!!!

What the heck am I doing wrong here? I can't figure out where I screwed up! Does the adjuster have infinite adjustment, or did I truly bottom out?

If anyone can help me please let me know what I did wrong.

Thanks guys,
Uncle Hulka
PS - By the way, the car is running awesome! Just turn the key and she fires right to life! I really love this car, even if it will be the death of me.


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2009, 01:10:23 PM »

Up through 1968, they had a 2 piece spacer set up in the diff that was a pain in the tail.  It's kind of hard to explain what it looked like.  It went into the carrier between the two axles in below the splines.  
 
I can tell you without going any further. . . It's missing.
 
I'll see if I can find a pic of what it looks like in one of my manuals and post it.  There may be a repair or replacement retrofit available now.
 
POLARACO2009-02-28 18:10:56
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Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2009, 02:15:48 PM »


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Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2009, 02:20:18 PM »

Try this guy
 

Carl Montoya
JTS Parts & Accessories
5980 Goodwin Rd
Cashmere, WA 98815
www.justdifferentials.com
carl@justdifferentials.com
509-888-AXLE (2953) ext. 113
866-399-7532 fax
 


Tell him you are a member of Moparfins and Steve Hobby in New Jersey sent you.  I'll send him the link to the picture so he knows right now.
 

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Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2009, 04:59:43 PM »

POLARACO, once again you save my a$$!!! Do I have to disassemble the differential or can this part be inserted without having to do so?

I will contact your friend immediately and get the order going.

Thank you again, my friend. If you find yourself in Connecticut, you won't have to worry about payin' for your beer or soda or whatever you drink!

I'll let you know what I find out.

Uncle Hulka

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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2009, 05:17:52 PM »

You're going to have to take the carrier back out.
 
I believe there is a upgrade kit for them, which eliminates the hassles.
 
As I said I would, I sent that link to carl with a brief explaination.
 
Yo Carl. . .Membership is Free!    
 
Now Commando1 is looking at changing his gears in a 9"
 
Edit
POLARACO2009-02-28 22:20:13
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Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2009, 05:26:43 PM »

I sent a message to Carl explaining the situation and mentioning your name. I also reminded him about putting specials in the vendor section as you asked. I will let you know if/when I hear from him.

Like I said at the beginning, I learn more and more about this car everyday. Also, 1968 was a pretty screwed up year!


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2009, 05:28:42 PM »

Wait, now I am confused.

If Carl has the piece I'm missing, will I have to disassemble the differential to install it (I know I'll have to drop the carrier).

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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #8 on: February 28, 2009, 05:42:55 PM »


It's a long shot, but could these spacers have fallen out in shipping? I haven't checked the shipping box, but.........maybe?
Uncle Hulka2009-02-28 22:43:27
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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2009, 06:50:46 PM »

[/QUOTE]
 
I did kind of lead you down a dark road there on a re-read.
 
No you do not have to take the Diff apart to put the pins in.  But you will have to take it out of the housing.
 
It is highly possible they are in the box.  But then again, it's possible they were lost before it was boxed.  Lost out of ignorance.
 
Chevy guy in a scrap yard 
POLARACO2009-02-28 23:53:07
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Stitcherbob

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #10 on: February 28, 2009, 07:05:40 PM »

I put mine back in on my 1965 sure grip by hot-melt glueing it to a looong wooden dowel and fishing it into the housing. I put heavy grease on the inside end so it would stick.  Once in, I was able to twist and bend the dowel until the part popped off the glue. the glue stuck to the wood better than the bushing. It's worth a shot.....I didn't have to disassemble anything again 

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Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2009, 02:47:25 AM »

You're a mind-reader, Stitch. I had already decided that if these pieces just slid in, I was going to rig up some sort of an insertion tool.

Are all these adjusters identical. If so can anyone give me the dimensions. If Carl at justdifferentials can't help me, I might be able to make my own. We have all the equipment at work.

As problematic as this car has been, I still love it. I hope one day to not look at her and be thinking of the next repair on the list. I doubt that day will come as this is a 40+ year old car. I'll be satisfied just to have more time between repairs to enjoy her.

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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #12 on: March 01, 2009, 03:50:13 AM »

Still reading as much as I can out there trying to get my head around this problem. I found a part number for a thrust block assembly kit (2881313). As I read more and more, I came across the old original vs green bearing debate. Am I understanding this properly, that If I install the green bearings, I will not need the thrust block? How can this be? Right now, neither axle is in contact with the thrust block and they both have too much endplay.

I'm going to search this forum to see what has been said before on the green bearing debate. But the bottom line is if these bearings are good for a reasonably long life AND are easy to replace, it doesn't make sense NOT to install them. I understand the ball bearing design is not as strong as the tapered cone design for side load. That being said, if they're good for 15 or 20 thousand miles, it still makes sense to make the switch.

Thoughts?

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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Changed Differential and now....HELP!
« Reply #13 on: March 01, 2009, 07:33:59 AM »

[/QUOTE]
 
Re: your green bearing comment. . .Regardless to what Stitch says about green bearings, I have to say he is wrong.  Guys put hundreds of thousands of miles on green bearings with no failures.  He basing his decision and opinions on one or 2.
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Stitcherbob

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