MoparFins

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

We changed servers, which is good, and lost all passwords, which is bad. See above.

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Kickdown cable vs. linkage  (Read 799 times)

Mark

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 192
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« on: January 19, 2009, 03:18:10 PM »

Took the ragtop out for a spin Wed eve... Only the 2nd trip since installing the 3.55's. Mashed the pedal and yes there is definitely an increase in the pressure to your backside as the yacht takes off.  At the 3rd stop light, I mashed it again and my throttle stuck partially open. I ended up with a 65 mph idle up hill....  Shut 'er down, pulled of into a parking lot and figured out that my fabricated kickdown kinked at one of my joints and wouldn't let the throttle return home. Soooooo - that got me thinking about installing a cable kickdown in it's place. Anyone here using one? any issues?
 
Thanks!
Logged
Jake's A body will fit in my C body's trunk!

Steve

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • Posts: 8653
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2009, 05:42:35 PM »

I've never done one, but I have heard great things about them.  Easy to adjust too.
Logged
Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Leaburn Patey

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 4606
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2009, 06:13:57 PM »

Logged
1968 Newport Custom project BOAB
1973 Satelitte wagon
1983 Dodge 400
2006 300C HEMI!!

Butch Houghton

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 210
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2009, 07:32:02 AM »


Lokar isn't bad but be prepared to have to tinker with it to make it work properly.

I've installed 3 or 4 of these & sometimes they work & sometimes you gotta work the ratio's to get it even close.    This a known problem out there with those who  have used them.

The issue is that the ratio between the Kickdown arm on the tranny & whatever you have at the carb isn't the same & you wind up either moving the hole in the arm at the tranny or coming up ith another arm or  making something at the carb.    Last one I did I made an extension for the carb arm that gave it more throw.   Got it real close.

Probably a better choice ( what I'll  use next time ) is this....

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEtkdc.asp

If you hit the link down the page for installation instructions you'll see why it's a better thought-out setup.   They cover the different cards used & they have the ratio's worked out.   Just reading through the directions will give you a good idea of how it all works even if you use a Lokar & ideas on how to corect the issues with it if you use that instead.

The Lokar is about 1/2 the price of the Bouchillon so it's whether you wanna save a bit & work with it or just install & be done.   Sometimes the Lokar is fine. Your choice.

Edit....If you look at the cable Bouchillon uses it's just a late model cable,  I've heard it's for the later Rams.    They just built brackets & got the ratio's right using that cable.


Butch

HemiFury2009-01-20 12:35:19
Logged
68 Dart GT - 394 Stroker/6 Pack
70 Fury Gran Coupe - 472 Hemi
70 Sport Fury - 383 Magnum FK5

Snotty

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 3972
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2009, 08:50:01 AM »

How do these cables work as opposed to the solid or two-piece linkages?  Is a bracket necessary to hold them in place?
Logged
It's green here in Chico!!

Butch Houghton

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 210
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2009, 12:50:06 PM »

Basically Yes.....

The Lokar does come with a bracket to hold it to the Transmission,    It pulls the KD Lever instead of pushing it like hard linkage.     Bolts to one of the Tailshaft housing bolts on the drive side & cable has to swing around & face forward.   You need a light spring to hold the KD lever forward with a Lokar.    

Up at the carb it's a different story with the Lokar,   You either have to make something to hold the cable or use one of the ARE throttle brackets since they have the provision for a Lokar cable already.   I have the ARE bracket on the Hemi & use the Lokar  with it.

If you look at the Bouchillon site you'll see how they achieve this,   they have brackets both at the trans & at the Throttle bracket.   Like I said,  read thru the instructions & you'll see how it all works & if nothing else get ideas about how to make the Lokar work also.

The Bouchillon is engineered just plain better but then that's why it costs more too.

If you're a bit creative & understand how the Kickdown functions you can make the Lokar work,   if you don't wanna fool with it get the Bouchillon.

Butch





Logged
68 Dart GT - 394 Stroker/6 Pack
70 Fury Gran Coupe - 472 Hemi
70 Sport Fury - 383 Magnum FK5

Snotty

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 3972
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2009, 08:36:42 AM »

Thanks Butch; I'll check into it.
 
My linkage is incorrect, and has been since I got the car.  It was from the original 383 that was swapped by the dealer for a 440 when the car was sold.  I have never liked it.  I have a "nut and bolt" correction - Boo!  That's why this thread percked my ears up.
Logged
It's green here in Chico!!

Steve

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • Posts: 8653
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2009, 09:47:40 AM »

Quote from: Snotty
Thanks Butch; I'll check into it.
 
 
But not your wallet
Logged
Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Butch Houghton

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 210
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2009, 12:22:12 PM »

Don't tell me,   the throw isn't enough so ya stick a nut/bolt thru at the slotted arm at the carb to get enough throw........
 
Is this the typical 1-piece arm I'm used to on the C-bodies?   One long KD arm from the Bellcrank just behind the carb on the intake all the way to the KD arm?     I think it varies between 2 & 4 bbl cars & might between the 383 & 440 cause of the deck height difference ( about .9" ) .

That & the slotted arn at the carb has no adjustment ,  just the slotted part at the bellcrank on the down arm makes for a tough time getting it right.   The nut & bolt is the easy way.   The arm at the carb might be longer too,  I'd have ta look at the parts book to see.  I know when I went from a 2bbl to a 4bbl on the old 383 I had the same issues.   Not enough adjustment to throw the arm to full Kickdown.

The nice fix ( short of the correct part  or a cable ) would be to cut the slot at the upper end & weld in exension piece to make it longer for more adjustment.

The earlier C's & B-bodies used a 3 piece linkage setup,   had some adjustment at the vertical rod & then more at the carb arm so you could fudge it a bit better.   The major differece between the 383 & 44o setup there was the vertical rod being longer on the 440 for the deck height diff.

Butch




Logged
68 Dart GT - 394 Stroker/6 Pack
70 Fury Gran Coupe - 472 Hemi
70 Sport Fury - 383 Magnum FK5

Snotty

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 3972
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2009, 02:28:49 PM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Quote from: Snotty
Thanks Butch; I'll check into it.
 
 
 
Booger!
 
Yes, Butch, you've described my linkage as if you've seen it.  There is an adjustment on the bracket at the back of the manifold, but it's all the way forward and is still the wrong length.  I found a complete 440 set-up on another guy's motor and trans that he was not using, but he would not deal for it.  Another friend gave me an older, two-piece linkage, but I don't have the proper manifold bracket to use it.
 
Snotty2009-01-22 19:34:20
Logged
It's green here in Chico!!

Butch Houghton

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 210
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #10 on: January 23, 2009, 07:38:55 AM »

Like I said BTDT!  LOL!    The nut/Bolt works,  just looks Tacky.  

The Bouchillon would fix everything cleanly for sure.   Everybody that's used one has said it worked perfect  as opposed to maybe 50/50 with the Lokar.

Or....cut the slot on the arm coming from  the tranny & lengthen it so you've got more adjustment ,    not much expense there even if you just took the arm to somebody & had them do it.

You would just measure the extra length on the carb arm that you have from the back end of it's slot to the nut/bolt you've added & add a bit for insurance there & then have the slot a the trans arm lengthened the same amount.  

Wait!   Sorry I'm overthinking this......Why not just add the length behind the slot on the trans arm with just a section of round rod added in.   DUH!    For that matter you could cut  the round part,  put threads on each end & use a long coupling nut.   Or weld in some rod,  grind smooth & paint & nobody would be the wiser.

Any # of ways to do it without spending a bunch.

Butch


Logged
68 Dart GT - 394 Stroker/6 Pack
70 Fury Gran Coupe - 472 Hemi
70 Sport Fury - 383 Magnum FK5

Arlen Vander Hoff

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Posts: 2414
    • View Profile
Kickdown cable vs. linkage
« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2009, 02:14:50 PM »

I gotta agree with Butch, I have heard that Lokar is ok if you wanna tinker with it every time you take the car out. Believe me Butch knows his poop!!! He would not steer anyone wrong (accecpt maybe a chebbie guy)
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

© 2008-2014 Steve Hobby • © 2015 Allpar, LLC