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Author Topic: TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012  (Read 20583 times)

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #270 on: January 19, 2010, 04:17:23 PM »

Took the wagon out today, since it was 11 degrees C (approx. 54 F) and sunny with cloud.  No problems and the drive line shake is even less then before but I still have some.

I'm thinking it might be tire related.  I had them redone again last year.  The shop is really good and the spent a lot of time getting them right and checking them to make sure they ran true.  But I just get that feeling it's coming from the tires.  Maybe they are developing flat spots from sitting?



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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #271 on: January 24, 2010, 09:35:13 PM »


Well I did a little repair work on a piece for the wagon today.

First off is the stuff I used for the repair, Rapid Fix.  A guy on another forum I frequent posted a link to a vid on this stuff.  He also runs a parts store and vouches for the effectiveness of this stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSmgEkbp5eM
thrashingcows2010-01-25 02:36:25
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #272 on: January 24, 2010, 09:38:07 PM »

Now here's the part I repaired.

This is the drivers side interior pillar post cover.  It is frequently broken due to it's construction from plastic and the fact that while getting in and out of the car it usually gets hit.





And then farther up one of the screw hole braces was snapped off.



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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #273 on: January 24, 2010, 09:47:29 PM »

So I cleaned all the edges really well then put a light coat of the liguid on the edges of the broken pieces and then put them in place and held.  I took about 30 seconds for them to bond.

Then I went back over the cracks on the back and applied the welding powder, then a few drops of the liquid to set it up.  

Pics from the back side.







And then what the repair looks like from the front.





I don't think it looks too bad.  Better then having missing pieces.  I've pulled and tweaked on the repairs and they are SOLID.  

The Rapid Fix isn't cheap, I paid $37 cdn for it.  But I would have had to pay a lot more to try and find, and then ship these panels.  Money well spent in my books, and I barely used any of the stuff so it will just keep on paying for itself. 

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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Dave

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #274 on: January 24, 2010, 09:56:30 PM »

"Finish the bathroom first"... I have the same deal with our kitchen right now. Counters, backsplash, lighting, cieling, fireplace, paint.... Oil, grease, even brake fluid on my hands I can stand. Drywall dust - ick.



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Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #275 on: January 25, 2010, 11:54:23 AM »

Yeah I have to build up "credit" with the wife with home renos.  Then I can work on the car....

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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #276 on: January 31, 2010, 02:21:16 PM »

Well over on the C-body board Leaburn mentioned about the 65-66 seedan pillar covers being different then the 67/68.

I mentioned that I had a set of "metal" 67's that I was going to install before I was able to repair my original plastic panel.

So I'll post up some pics of the 67 and 68 panels so you can see the differences.




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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #277 on: January 31, 2010, 02:21:35 PM »

So here are the pics of the two interior pillar post covers, green one is the 67 and the blue is the original one I just repaired.







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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #278 on: January 31, 2010, 02:31:20 PM »

Now here are the pics of the 67 installed in the wagon, and the comparison pic of the other side.







As you can see the 67 cover doesn't go out as far as the 68 does.  So you would need to run the wind lace all the way around the door frame to give it a more completed look.



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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #279 on: January 31, 2010, 02:37:23 PM »

Now to get the 67 panel to fit in the 68 I had to first bend all those little "U" shaped screw support fins flat.



Then I had to use my dremel to trim off the top of the panel to clear the roof trim in the wagon.



I also had to cut back the windlace to make room for the metal panel.



And before I could install the panel I had to drill out the factory screw holes with a 7/32 drill bit to make roof for the factory 68 trim screws.



But now that the original is back in serviceable shape the 67 panel will be coming back out and go back into storage for use at a later date....maybe.

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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Leaburn Patey

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #280 on: January 31, 2010, 02:50:49 PM »

Thanks for "post"-ing the pics,Brian.
Taking the time to show the comparisons is invaluable to those who need help.
You are a "pillar" to the Mopar community!
CBarge2010-01-31 19:52:12
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1968 Newport Custom project BOAB
1973 Satelitte wagon
1983 Dodge 400
2006 300C HEMI!!

firedome

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #281 on: January 31, 2010, 03:11:10 PM »

Nice job! ... that seems odd going from plastic to metal and not vise
versa. Usuallly they were always trying to cut costs by going to a
chaeper material.

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Fuselage C-Body Power!!!

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #282 on: January 31, 2010, 03:40:41 PM »


Quote from: CBarge
Thanks for "post"-ing the pics,Brian.
Taking the time to show the comparisons is invaluable to those who need help.
You are a "pillar" to the Mopar community!

................Niiiice!!

Firedome...I would have thought the 67 metal panels would have been more expensive then the 68 plastic ones?



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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Stan Paralikis

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #283 on: February 01, 2010, 04:13:21 AM »

I never would have known that there were two different kinds.  Every day is a learning experience.  Not that all this knowledge would put food on the table.  But, inyeresting none the less.

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #284 on: August 09, 2010, 09:52:57 PM »

Thought I'd update the whole brake problems...and solutions, I just went through.



So after I realized the old cummins crewcab wasn't going to be read for
holiday duty this year, I had to scramble to get the wagon back on the
road.  I had stopped driving it due to the rear drums constantly over
heating and cause major brake drag.  I had replaced the whole rear drum
assembly from the stock 11x2 which are hard to find parts for, to the
very common 11x2.5's.



So my goal was to fix the problem properly.  I had to replace the axle
bearing seals, and axle shaft seals, since from all the heat it had
cooked them out.  I replaced everything last year as well, but had used
the cheap off shore bearings.  So this year I ordered a timken bearing
kit with everything to redo the axles, nice kit and about $100 off
e-bay.



Once I had everything apart to replace the axles and seals, I noticed
that my brake shoes were cracked from all the heat.  Drums were still in
 good shape.  So I put on new shoes, scuffed up the drum surface again
and buttoned everything up.  Then someone asked if I had replaced the
brake hardware recently...nope I had not.  For the $10 for all new
springs and stuff it's not worth using the original stuff.  So apart
again to replace the brake hardware.  Then reassembled everything and
but back on the ground.



Then through more questions and suggestions I figured I better replace
the rear wheel cylinders, and the rear flex line, even though it was new
 no more then 3 years ago.  Again trying to make sure that what ever
is/was causing the brake brag gets taken care of.  So up goes the car
again, off come the wheels, and now new wheel cylinders and replace the
rear flex line.  Good thing I replaced the rear flex line, since I could
 barely blow through it one direction, and was completely clear in the
other.



After all this I went to bleed the main brake line before I installed
the new flex line.  It was then that I noticed that it would not gravity
 bleed.  I had the master cylinder pen, no fitting onthe end of the
brake line and the fluid would only move when the pedal was pumped!  Now
 that not right.  SO I decided to pop off the brake line fitting going
into the proportioning valve, fluid came out no problem.  So I figured
there must be a problem in the prop. valve.  I had installed a "new"
reproduction proportioning valve a year or two ago and just assumed it
would be correct and work properly.  Turns out the one I got was
different thenthe old disc brake one I removed.  The new prop. valve had
 a RPV (residual pressure valve) built into it.  So it was holding line
pressure on the rear drum brakes, as well as the newer wheel cylinders
having spring pressure as well, all this was compounding to cause my
brake drag problem.



So I decided to redo the whole brake system from the MC to the main
lines, front and rear.  From previous suggestions and discussions I knew
 that I would just "T" the front brake lines to the MC,and then install
an adjustable brake valve in the rear circuit.  So I picked up a very
nice SSBC adjustable valve locally for $50 and then got to work.  After
all was done, I ended up being able to reuse the stock drum brake lines
from the MC on down, just had to replace one fitting, cut line, install
fitting and then re-flare. And the same with the rear line, cut off the
old fitting, install the new one then re-flare.  I then went to bleed
the brakes, and noting was happening!!  I could not get fluid to move
into the rear brake system, I was beside myself since I had been working
 in 37* (104*F) weather and I should be getting fluid through, and I
only had one more day before holiday time!



Thank goodness for car guy neighbors!!  I went over and asked my
neighbor to please come and help me think this through.  After some time
 asking me what I had done, he finally suggested that we start opening
brake line fittings, starting at the MC.  Well after the third fitting
we realized that the new adjustable valve was not letting the fluid
through.  Removed the adjustable valve and found it was plugged with
gunk and crud, blew it out and flushed the valve and re-installed...well
 things went well after that.  Got everything bled and moved the car up
and down the road and all seemed fine.








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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

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