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Author Topic: TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012  (Read 20558 times)

Mike

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #90 on: March 18, 2008, 05:14:29 PM »

Aw Brian, that sucks man at least you made a valient effort. I would
mention to that company their welding kit has some flaws. Good luck on
your manifold hunt.
Potatoe2008-03-18 21:17:34
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Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #91 on: March 22, 2008, 03:47:10 PM »

Well been bidding on manifolds on e-bay...but keep getting knocked out at the last second...  Oh well that's E-bay.  Will keep at it.
 
Got the vent window cranking mechanism from Chris last week and got them installed today...THANKS CHRIS!!!!.....now everything that was on the re-inspection list is DONE!!!
 
Will make an apointment for the re-inspection next week and should finally be able to register the ol' girl and get proper moving permits and insurance....
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Steve

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #92 on: March 22, 2008, 04:42:48 PM »

Brian
 
That was a right low performance exhaust manifold you needed?
 
I thnk I have one
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Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #93 on: March 23, 2008, 10:17:33 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Brian
 
That was a right low performance exhaust manifold you needed?
 
 
No I'm looking for the right HP manifold...I have several low flow ones...Thanks anyway...
 
 
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #94 on: March 27, 2008, 01:38:11 PM »

IT PASSED!!!!


 
 
Well it went through inspection today and passed....I got it registered in BC and now I cna get proper permits and insurance if desired.  I also had to pay the tax on the car a second time...first when I came through teh US/Canada border and now agin when I registered it...what a scam having to pay tax twice on the purchase price!!!
 
Oh well...now it's get the car ready for exhaust and I'm working on rebuilding the spare front end form the 300, will do a one day swap of the front end when it's ready to go.
 
 
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #95 on: March 29, 2008, 08:30:55 PM »


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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #96 on: April 08, 2008, 09:30:55 PM »

Well I have been working a bit on getting the spare front suspension apart and ready for blasting.
 
Have learned a few things while I've been at it so I thought I would share.
 
First is the upper control arms.  The bushings can be removed quite easily without any fancy tools.  The outer washer on the bushings, the large end, is just pressed into the center shaft, so if you clamp the big end into a vice and then twist it will POP off. 
 

 
 
With this off you can now use fire, (love to play with fire..), to heat up the center shaft and then slide it out.  Now pry out the rubber bushing and all you have to do is pound the outer shells inwards and then out.  I used my buddies plazma cutter on three of them before I discovered this.
 

 
So next was the lower control arm bushings.  I had my shop press out the center shaft, then I used my dremel and a small cutoff blade to cut mostly through the shell surrounding the center shaft.  Cut almost all the way through but not quite, then use a cold chisel to bang down the center of the cut and it cracks and popped off. 
 
The real fun was the outer shell in the lower control arm.  I tried the, "weld on a thick washer and pound out the shell"  but my little wire feed wouldn't get enough penatration on the metal so it kept comming off after a few hits.  The I decided to try and cold chisel my way though, well this worked to about half way down the shell then I couldn't get the chisle to grab any more material.  So next I tried heating up the shell to glowing red and trying to pry/bend the shell inwards...nope didn't work either.
 
So I returned to the old dremel tool.  I used some grinding stones to start with but after only a minute or two the stone would explode, I went through three stones before I figured out what was happening.  The stones were not made for grinding heavy metal so they were generating too much heat and then exploding.  So my solution was to grind for about 10 seconds, then stop the dremel and dip the stone into water, then wait a few seconds, start the dremel and grind for another 10 seconds.....I did this until I ground almost all the way through the outter shell.  Then I used a old crappy flat screwdriver and pounded under the shell and it cracked down the middle., then all I had to do was bend both ends inward and the shell slid out....
 

 
So after all this I cleaned everything in my new(old) parts washer and discovered that my idea of running a fuel filter to replace the origianl bag style filter was only good for about 10 minutes....So I switched to the original bag filter and it lasted about 15 miutes before clogging up.  Then I decide to run the washer with no filter...Much better!!!
 
So all my parts are now clean and ready for blasting....then I can paint and reassemble the new front end.  Hope to have it ready to bolt in by the end of April.  But the new Exhaust comes first.
 
 
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #97 on: April 27, 2008, 05:09:45 PM »

Well been a while since I updated what's been going on with the wagon.
 
Well I got my new (used) pass. side HP manifold, remember the crack that didn't weld up so good...   So I removed the old low flows and started to install the new HP manifolds, got the pass side on and then installed the drivers side HP manifold.
 
Now I had picked up a 70-73 C-body 383/440 HP manifold so time ago, love the look of the manifold with the raised rims down the side, but when I installed it on the wagon it just didn't look right in the engine bay.  I sis a lot of soul searching so to speak and I finally decided that I wouldn't be happy with the 70-73 HP manifold so I am going to get a proper 68/69 HP manifold for the drivers side and install that instead.
 
So since I decided to wait and get another HP manifold I could no longer get my new exhaust installed.  SInce it will probably be a couple weeks until the new manifold shows up I decided to rebuild the front end in the wagon while I wait.
 
 
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #98 on: April 28, 2008, 08:07:37 PM »

So I pulled the front end...I borrowed a front end removal tool kit from Crappy Tire..worked great and made disassembly quick and painless.  As well as the torsion bar removal tool from a buddy....
 
Click for larger image... 
 

 
 
Since the exhaust and front end were off I figured I'd have lots of room to install the 71 disc/drum brake prop. valve for the old drum/drum set-up, since I'll be installing the 73 disc set-up.
 
I found out that the drum/drum set-up is very different to the disc drum, brake line feed that is.  So I had to cut the ends off each line and install different fittings then re-flare the ends and then hand bend the lines into the right ports on the prop. valve.  Looks like hell but it will work for now.  I'll order new brake lines later this year.
 
So since that is done I could move on up to the front end reassembly.
 
I got the front end mostly installed, but was having a problem installing the bushings into the brackets on the sway bar.  Advice from board members led me to drill through the spot welds and then cut down between the seam with the sawsall and make a piece that can be bolted in...works great now!!
 
Click for larger image...
 

 
So I installed the center links and bushings and hung the sway bar in place but there seemed to be a problem.....the sway bar ends were not in the right place by each of the strut rods??  
 
 Now I used the front end components from the 71 300 and just assumed that the sway bars, like most of the other pieces, would be the same...we'll I was wrong...
 
Seems the original 68 sway bar is a bit shorter and has a slightly different bend to the ends than the 71 300 style.  So I am also assuming then that the strut rods would have been a different length as well as the torsion bars,  So I guess there are a few components in the front ends that are different in slabsides and fusey C-bodies....
 

I also found out through questions on this board and others the difference in the inner and outer tie rod ends.  The inner tie rod is the LH thread and the outer tie rod is the RH thread.  Not that it really matters but I'm a little obsesive about these kind of details so I wanted it to be right.
 
So I have a few things left to do on the front end but will get to them in the next week or so.
 
Here's were what the front end looks like so far...
 
Click for larger image...
 

 
 

thrashingcows2008-04-29 01:56:23
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Leaburn Patey

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #99 on: April 29, 2008, 01:57:04 AM »

That is awesome,Brian.
The sway bar bushing trick is cool.I need to replace the sway bar bushings in the NY'er
 
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1973 Satelitte wagon
1983 Dodge 400
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Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #100 on: April 29, 2008, 09:15:26 AM »

Well I did some more measuring and stuff today and it sure looks like the two sway bars are the same....I can't figure out why then the bar was not lining up with the strut rod and bushing??
 
I'll try installing everything again and see if I can get it to line up properly....
 
 
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #101 on: April 29, 2008, 03:19:31 PM »

Well I've taken longer trying to install this damn sway bar than it took me to install most of the front end!!!
 
I have been messing around now for a couple hours trying everything to get things to line up properly...I've switched between the 71 and 68 sway bars...won't line up...loosened the center links to give it some added place...still won't line up.
 
I finally decided to measure the length on the center links...I'm using the ones off the 71 300..so I measure from the top of the square braket to the shoulder on the top of the shaft and found the 71's were 3 3/8", now I measured the 68's the same way and they measure out to 3".
 
SO I think this must be what is throwing off my sway bar alignment, guess I'll have to drill and cut the originals and then see if I can THEN get things to line up.
 
But leaving out of town for work tomorrow morning so I will have to wait until the weekend to do this.
 
 
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #102 on: May 11, 2008, 07:27:44 PM »

Well the sway bar issue turns out to that you can NOT use a fusey sway bar and links or either part individually, in a slabside...the links are too long and the sway bar is a bit wider and bent slightly different and won't line up with the strut rods.
 
So after discovering this I had to clean up the original swaybar and center inks and install them.  Everything lined up perfect after that.
 
thrashingcows2008-05-12 15:44:42
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #103 on: May 11, 2008, 07:41:34 PM »

So I went to install the front brakes over the weekend.  I didn't have a set of backing plates, since all I saved from the 73 newport was the spindles and the rotors, so I saved the backing plates from the 71 300 parts car and figured that it would be a direct swap....well I was wrong!!!
 
Turns out the center "HAT" on the dust shields on 69-72 disc brake cars are not wide enough to accept the bigger inner bearing on the 73 rotors, as well the hat is too tall/long.   The rotor will not install properly, it bottoms out against the "hat" and won't seat, therefore nothing lines up.
 
Click for larger image...
 

 
So I removed the dust shield and installed the rotor.  Then I had to figure out how much clearance I needed between the rear bearing hub and the dust shield.  So I used a very scientific method...various short sockets stuffed on my pinky finger and wiggled in behind the rotor and spindle....shorty 9/16 was the winner!!
 
So the I used this socket to mark off the area I needed to trim off the dust shield.
 

 
Then I cut it with the dremel.
 

 
Then it was install, test fit, remove and grind a bit more off here and there....did this several time before I had no rubbing between the rotor and dust shield.
 
thrashingcows2008-05-12 15:45:59
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

Brian

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TC's T/C...update..Aug 2012
« Reply #104 on: May 11, 2008, 07:51:48 PM »

So now that the dust shields were working I could now install the calipers and brakes.
 
Now I installed the pass. side first, no real problems other than I had no idea how the anti-rattle spring was to be installed, I think I have it right?  Anyone...
 

 
Finished up the pass. side and went to install the caliper on the drivers side and I couldn't get it over the rotor with the brake pads installed...I tried and tried but it just wouldn't fit...
 
I thought maybe I had installed the wrong brake pads, one being for the front and one for the rear but after checking I could see they were all the same.  SO I pulled out my new dial caliper...from the good wife for christmas!!  And measured the distance between the inner and outer brake mounting faces...the proper pass. side measured out a 3.08 inches and the one that wouldn't fit measured 2.87inches...so a difference of almost 1/4 inch!!!
 
So it must have been a A/B/E body caliper and not a C-body..because it still would have bolted up to the mounting points.
 
SO I returned it to the jobber where I had got it and they brought me in a new one, which I checked before leaving.
 
I was then able to finish the front brakes.  I bled the system using my fancy one man bleeding machine...
 

 
thrashingcows2008-05-12 15:47:14
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Brian

02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
84 Dodge Crewcab, Cummins/5speed
68 Chrysler Station Wagon 440/auto
48 Desoto 2dr Sedan flat 6/3spd manual

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