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Author Topic: 69 Fury vs. 70 Fury  (Read 585 times)

Robert Rottman

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« on: October 10, 2008, 05:00:10 AM »

I have a 69 Fury III 2dr. hardtop, 318, auto, 85k miles, that rides like an absolute dream...like a new car. I also have a 70 Fury III 2 dr. hardtop, 318, auto, 95k miles, that rides like an absolute lumber wagon....like an old car. There are no noticeable differences underneath these cars. Did Chrysler cheapen up the 70's some how/way and this is just the way it is?
 
Bob
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Bill Mounteer

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2008, 07:37:41 AM »

Since most of the suspension parts etc between the '69 and '70 are interchangeable I think your '69 has either had an easier life or has had it's suspension worked on. 

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Matt Aker

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2008, 07:49:07 AM »

Does the '70 have heavy-duty suspension?  Count the leaves on each side and let us know.
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Snotty

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2008, 08:48:35 AM »

Two cars, nearly identical, driven by two diffrerent people can result in a wide variety of suspension wear.  I'd say the suspension on your '70 is shot, but what Matt said is also possible.
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Bill Mounteer

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #4 on: October 10, 2008, 10:34:57 AM »

My '70 convertible, being a 440 car, got all the heavy duty suspension parts at the factory and it sure never felt like "an absolute lumber wagon". I would describe it more in terms of firm but not harsh. The car handled very well and didn't feel at all loose. 

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Robert Rottman

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2008, 02:24:16 PM »

I count 5 leafs on both cars (I have to look for that 5th leaf..it's real short). Is most of the ride due to the condition of the rear leafs or do worn components in the front affect the ride too? I have adjusted the torsion bars on both cars and they are both set to equal heights....I measured/set  them on my flat garage floor surface from the floor up to the top of the wheel wells. I have air shocks in the rear of both cars...when I let all the air out the 70 sags more....I cannot ruin the ride in the 69 no matter how much air I put in those shocks. The 70 rides bad with a little or a lot of air....just a little more bouncy back there with a lot. With little air I feel like I'm always looking up hill when driving the 70. Hitting manholes/ruts is very annoying. It like grabs the whole car. To sum it all up, the 69 just feels like a heavier car and it floats on the road. The 70 feels light weight and it's bouncy and rattles.
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Steve

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2008, 03:22:53 PM »

Quote from: Snotty
Two cars, nearly identical, driven by two diffrerent people can result in a wide variety of suspension wear.  I'd say the suspension on your '70 is shot, but what Matt said is also possible.
 

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Robert Rottman

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #7 on: October 11, 2008, 03:10:21 PM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Quote from: Snotty
Two cars, nearly identical, driven by two diffrerent people can result in a wide variety of suspension wear.  I'd say the suspension on your '70 is shot, but what Matt said is also possible.
 
 
What does shot actually mean? Does this mean I need new rear leafs? or have them re-arked? Need to go through the front end too? 
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Steve

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2008, 03:58:35 PM »

The car is 38 years old.  The rubber components are probably shot.  Especially if you have allot of oil on the subframe in the front.  Oil, Ozone, heat and age have probably worn out the rubber.  I imagine the car shakes like a bowl of jello on bumps.
This is what I suggest.

Fornt end.  Replace the lower bushings.  May I suggest you pay the $45.00 for the ones Justsuspensions has.  Those suckers are great!  They are pretty easy to do with the correct tools.  The hardest part is getting the  sleeve out of the control arm.  Heat and an air chisel work for me.

If you want. . . Get a set of bushings and I'll rebuild my spares and send them up to you.  Then you can send back the old ones.  I just want 20 bucks to cover the materials. 


Then look at your upper bushings.  These should be done at a front end shop because the car will have to be re-ligned.  I am assuming you have limited tools. BTW
check the tie rods, and ball joints.  Replace as needed.
Shocks
if you are doing the bushings, you may as well do the shocks.  Monroe Magnums or KYBs.  Monroe aren't has harsh as the KYB's,but the KYB's will give you a modern car feel.
 
Rear Springs
You have to look at the car.  If it's sits level with an empty trunk, they probably are OK, but on their way.  Rearching is good, or you can get a complete set from Alcan Spring in Colorado for about 400 Bucks.  Again, shocks are a key here too.
 
Unless you are replacing the lower ball joints, the front end should cost you no more than 250 with tie rod ends and alignment.
 
I had to do Polaraco twice because I tried to do it cheap the first time.  Now, anyone who has recently driven the car will tell you what she feels like.  Mobby, Stitcher Bob and I think P Have all driven it.  What I suggested above is what I did the second time and used KYB's
 
 
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Robert Rottman

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« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2008, 04:46:17 PM »

Thanks Steve, There is a lot of oil on the front subframe. It's been there ever since I bought the car two+ years ago. The funny thing about it...I never have to add oil to anything...All the fluid levels stay right up where they belong. I probably should get what ever is leaking fixed first!! It looks like engine oil...Anyways...That's a nice offer to help me out thank you. I'll remember that if I decide to go that route and do it myself. Not sure how I'm going to go about it yet. I'm thinking I may possibly get a local guy to do it for me. He's very reasonable and trust worthy...I'll have to get over there and have him look at it. Perhaps I can buy the bushings from the vendor you mentioned and have him install them. If in the mean time anyone has any photos of these bushings/location up front you're talking about...that would be great...
Bob
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Snotty

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2008, 09:21:48 PM »

Quote from: POLARACO
  Replace as needed 
 
I agree with Steve execept in that one phrase.  If you are going to take the time to tear down your front end, replace everything as you reinstall.  Then you know you have a new front end that won't need to be touched for a long time.  If you do your own work the only difference will be the cost.  You can get an entire front-end kit form JS for just over $300.00,
 
Get it all done and enjoy your ride.
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Snotty

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #11 on: October 12, 2008, 09:23:26 PM »

Oh, if you don't have the tools - ball joint socket, etc. - you can purchase all you need throuhg JS.  The price is very good.  You'll have to call them to specify C Body stuff.
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Steve

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #12 on: October 13, 2008, 05:55:18 AM »

Quote from: Snotty
Quote from: POLARACO
  Replace as needed 
 
I agree with Steve execept in that one phrase.  If you are going to take the time to tear down your front end, replace everything as you reinstall.  Then you know you have a new front end that won't need to be touched for a long time.  If you do your own work the only difference will be the cost.  You can get an entire front-end kit form JS for just over $300.00,
 
 
I always replace everything like Snotty suggested. . .but I was also thinking of your pocket book
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firedome

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69 Fury vs. 70 Fury
« Reply #13 on: October 20, 2008, 02:59:25 AM »

Sometime around 70 or 71 Chrysler made some changes to the suspension
of the C bodies in order to quiet them down and reduce NVH, extra
bushings, thicker body mounts, and such. not sure what year it was...
so theoretucally a later car was supposed to have less of the lumber
wagon syndrome, all things being equal ie: everything new &/or up
to snuff. 

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Steve

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« Reply #14 on: October 20, 2008, 04:17:58 AM »

Yes that's right
 
They isolated the sub frame fromt he body with bushings.  That started in 71 I think.  Not sure when Plymouth was done.  But the suspension parts remained the same
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