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Author Topic: Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??  (Read 2789 times)

Leaburn Patey

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #15 on: September 04, 2008, 07:22:58 AM »

Metal on metal,Bob.
That's the way Ma did it when new.
I always had my logs planed to ensure a good seal.
Gaskets can burn out.
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Steve

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #16 on: September 04, 2008, 09:07:30 AM »

Gaskets can only burn out if there is a leak
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Snotty

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #17 on: September 04, 2008, 06:20:43 PM »

Yes, from the factory there were no gaskets.  I always use them and never have leaks.  Did you torque them down to the correct spec?
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Stitcherbob

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #18 on: September 04, 2008, 06:34:47 PM »

spray a little high temp copper spray on 'em and let dry.....worked on even the most spindly long Packard and Buick straight eight manifolds.

Re-torque after a few heat cycles....


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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #19 on: September 09, 2008, 05:29:33 AM »

Well...I did remove the exhaust man. gaskets....back to metal on metal now....not sure if they were causing a leak or not, because I still have an exhaust leak where the ex. man. meets the crossover pipe (I put my hand down in there and felt it). I'm thinking I have to loosen the crossover where it meets the muffler pipe now...then reattach/tighten the crossover to the exhaust manifold. Is this the proper method to get good alignment with the two?? There's no donut there...Are there any other tricks to get rid of a leak here??
 
Bob
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Leaburn Patey

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #20 on: September 09, 2008, 01:46:52 PM »

It is possible that the flanges on the crossover are bent causing a leak.
Two ways fixing it.
1.Remove crossover,heat up flanges and hammer them flat.
Clean the gasket surfaces area.Install new falnge gaskets.
Re-install and make sure to tighten up the bolts evenly.
Do not tighten one up all the way and then do the other--you are guaranteed to bend the flange  .
Or
2. Drop the crossover down enough to use a couple flange gaskets and lots of Ultra Copper .
I always re-tighten the flanges after runing the engine a bit.(Ouch! Ouch OOOhh Ouch!)
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fury fan

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #21 on: September 10, 2008, 09:40:02 AM »

Don't all the smallblocks have the swivel-cup flange on the manifolds and headpipes, though?  I've not seen every smallblock, but every smallblock I've seen was that way...

It's possible that there is a dent or flaw on the cup of the headpipe, if so, hammer it back as best you can.  Goop it up with hi-temp copper RTV and say a prayer. 
 
If that doesn't work, try my next trick:
Strip some lengths of copper wire and twist them together, make a circle the size of the cup, lightly solder the ends together (you don't want to make a large hard spot, just enough to hold the ends together while you place this new 'gasket'), goop it up with the copper RTV, and assemble.  The theory is that the wire strands will mash as necessary to meet the irregular surfaces.  You'll have to use some judgment for wire gauge, how many strands, etc.
 
I did this on a warped flat-flange pipe that blew gaskets monthly.  This trick lasted over a year.
 
fury fan2008-09-10 14:44:25
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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #22 on: September 10, 2008, 11:10:44 AM »

Yes Furyfan you are right....I didn't understand what Cbarge was saying....He has big blocks so I'm sure that's why...The best way I can describe this setup is that the crossover has a cup on it that fits onto the exhaust manifold and it has a taper.....theres a flange which is just a flat plate with 3 holes in it...a big one in the center for the crossover pipe (outside diameter) and two small holes on either side for the nuts and bolts. No donut. When I undid the two bolts the flange fell all the way down the crossover pipe so it's fairly loose on the pipe. You're right, I better remove it again and make sure there is no rust/junk on that taper on the exh. man. and that the cup on the pipe is nice and round/clean. I thought I did so...but perhaps I missed something. Since I wrote my last reply I have noticed some small holes in the exhaust manifold...they look like intentional factory relief holes? I am feeling leaks from these holes too. I'd like to tap them and screw some small bolts into them while I have it out...again..I can't imagine why Ma put those in there...I'll have to look at the other side and see if that one has them too. These holes are probably only 1/8-3/16" in dia....down low on both sides of the heat riser valve. furyfever2008-09-10 16:12:22
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Matt Aker

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #23 on: September 10, 2008, 11:14:06 AM »

Is the engine original to the car Bob?
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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #24 on: September 10, 2008, 03:23:02 PM »

As far as I know Matt...I've never read the numbers to see if they match. Does something sound fishy?? I don't know where to look for the numbers on the motor and what I should be comparing them to. If you fill me in, I'll look into it. Thanks, Bob
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Matt Aker

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #25 on: September 10, 2008, 03:38:24 PM »

The reason I asked is because of the leaking open holes you described in the manifolds.
 
From my experience those would be from emissions tubes, and perhaps there has been a manifold swap at some point.  Maybe the logs have been swapped and they're newer than the car's engine.  It's not uncommon for those "ports" to be plugged with JB-weld or another equivalent when the manifold isn't totally correct.
 
Your idea of tapping and plugging is the way to go if this is the case with this log!

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Stitcherbob

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #26 on: September 10, 2008, 06:37:08 PM »

Don't forget guys....silicone sealers (which I personally hate) only seal when assembled AFTER they had a chance to set up into a rubbery gasket. Tighten them when wet and all you get is metal to metal with silicone squished out all over.....

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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #27 on: September 10, 2008, 06:37:32 PM »


Click on photos to enlarge...You can see the small holes one on each side of the heat riser valve. JB Weld will hold up to the heat? I have some and can try patching these holes up if I know it will last.  Has anyone ever seen these holes in their logs? Exhaust is streaming out these holes when the engine is running. I'm thinking that's what I'm feeling when I put my hand down there. Since I removed the exhaust manifold gaskets the exhaust leak is much quieter now....(I now have "metal to metal") but I can still hear a small leak..perhaps it's from these holes??
Bob
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fury fan

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #28 on: September 11, 2008, 02:43:56 AM »

I've never used any JB Weld stuff on a manifold so I have no opinion there.
 
I would drill/tap the holes and install allen-head setscrews with some hi-temp RTV.  If you dont make threads all teh way down you could tighten the setscrew against the end of the threads, effectively giving it some interference-fit at the bottom to help hold it in place. 
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Stitcherbob

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #29 on: September 11, 2008, 06:52:33 AM »

Those are the oiling holes for the shaft. The JB weld probably won't hold up, but Lab Metal putty will. It's one part and comes in 2 versions. The second one is for really high heat situations. http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?ID=2
As a cheaper alternative, NAPA and other stores sell a muffler patching putty in a tube. It might work.....


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