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Author Topic: Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??  (Read 2883 times)

Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« on: September 01, 2008, 04:04:34 PM »

Hi Guys....I just finshed cleaning/painting/reinstalling my intake manifold on my 70 Fury III 318. The crossover exhaust passageway was completely plugged up with carbon. I painted the intake manifold with POR-15 engine enamel! After my FIRST start/run of the motor, I noticed the fresh paint is burning already right above where the passageway is on both sides...ALSO....I painted the exhaust manifolds with HIGH HEAT paint while I is was in there....I noticed on the passenger side (with the heat riser valve) the paint is already flaking off....I can't believe it!! Is it possible the heat riser valve is stuck/rusted in the closed position? Do I have to remove the exhaust manifold to check this?? Check out the photos...Why is it...when you think you're done....you're not? click on photos below to enlarge.
 
 
furyfever2008-09-01 21:16:17
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Steve

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2008, 04:43:53 PM »

You're fine.
 
If the heat riser were stuck closed, you would be having performance issues and the intake would be all black.
 
You need some heat in the intake to open the choke.  There is going to be some heat crossing over by default anyway.  The Heat Riser Valve just being there is offering some resistance.  That is what you are seeing burning the paint.
 
Typical 318.  Blocked cross over.  The paint is buring because you opened it up too.
 
Is the heat riser moving???
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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2008, 05:41:30 PM »

Yeah....but...but...but...The 318 in my 69 which was painted three + years ago isn't doing this....The paint on the intake is still very nice....like the day it was painted....and the exhaust manifolds are still pretty decent too. Why on earth after starting and running 1 time would this happen?? I'll have to check to see if I can turn the heat riser valve tomorrow. I should be able to grab the round steel piece and turn it right?? I had my 69's exhaust manifold apart 3 years ago and removed the steel flap inside....I just put the shaft back in without it (so it wouldn't leak) . I have a feeling I might have to do this again...Oh yeah...by the way the motor runs well...I took it out on the road and floored it a few times tonight....A lot of soot blew out the tail...A lot of smog in the rear view mirror
 
Thanks, Bob  
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Steve

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2008, 05:47:01 PM »

Good question.  is it the same paint on the 69?  Maybe the one on the 69 is stuck open and this one isn't?
 
You should be able to grap the counter weight and twist it.  If it moves and is stiff, shoot some pb blaster on it and get it freed up.  Once it's operating properly, the story is over.  Just make that a regular maintainence item.  Spray it up when you park it for the winter.
 
Maybe the valve is partially stuck closed. Without dropping the pipe, it's unknown.  Off the top of my head, I don't remmeber which way the counter weight should be for it to be open.
 
I know I had that on my 360 with a properly working riser valve. . . .
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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2008, 06:05:37 PM »

Thanks for the insight Polaraco...I just went out there and the counterweight is indeed frozen/stuck. Can't budge it either way. I banged on both sides with a ball pean hammer....the front side shaft and rear side counter weight and could'nt get it to budge. It's either stuck open or closed or part ways like you said. Man.....I don't want to remove it.....There's no exhaust leak over there...I wish I could free it up in place...I'd hate to break off a bolt too!! There's 6 holding it on the head...plus two holding it to the crossover pipe..Fun Fun Fun...Why can't I remember this when I start eyeing another C or Fin car....
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Leaburn Patey

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2008, 02:25:08 AM »

Luckily,Ma was smart enough to use nut and bolts on the exhaust manifold flanges--unlike Chevy and Ford where they used studs.
On Mopars,if they do not come easy,break them off and use new ones-simple.
Should you break a stud in the head removing the manifold,that can be tricky.
If there is enough meat left of the broken stud,weld a nut onto it and then remove it. 
If it is flush with the head,time to get the drill and tap set.....

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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2008, 05:04:47 AM »



A leaky valve cover gasket proved to be an asset here. All 6 nuts/bolts came off very nicely. And the two holding the crossover were actually loose! Anyways for what it's worth to you guys in the future....It looks like the heat riser valve is 75-80% closed....frozen in place. I should have known to check this as soon as I brought the car home two+ years ago. I think this has something to do with the intake crossover being full of carbon too! Less flow from side to side....carbon built up in intake crossover instead of going out the tail Maybe?? Thanks for your replies Polaraco and Cbarge...

Bob
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Steve

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2008, 05:16:17 AM »

I forgot to mention
 
When a working heat riser is parked for long periods of time, it can get stuck closed.  So it being partially closed let enough exhaust to buz by not to stall the car.  Get that sucker working and then see what happens with the performance
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Herman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2008, 07:34:29 AM »

I say ditch the logs, put some headers on it and enjoy the newfound power...



Snotty

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2008, 10:08:52 AM »

Bob, I always cut these valves off and have the holes welded closed.  No more leaks, closings, or rattling noises.  Of course I live in a very warm climate.  I don't know where you live, but unless it gets really cold in the winter, and you do drive it then, I would suggest removing the valve and being done with it.
 
It will not harm your motor at all to not have it there.
 
I also like the idea of headers, but I think you want to keep your car stock, yes?
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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #10 on: September 02, 2008, 04:32:31 PM »

I had the day off today. I drilled through the shaft on both sides of the valve, kept increasing drill size until the shaft broke....had a hard time getting the remainder of the shaft out of the bushings but managed to do so....Used a long bolt to plug up the holes and re-attached the counter balance so it looks somewhat original. Cleaned and painted with high heat paint....No more valve to get in the way now. I called the auto store in time to get a set of exhaust manifold gaskets and got everything back together by the end of the day. I'm ready to roll....I'll get an inspection tomorrow and have my Fury driver for the fall now.  
 

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Steve

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #11 on: September 02, 2008, 04:52:01 PM »

Robert?  The car looks great
 
Glad it worked out. 
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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #12 on: September 03, 2008, 05:26:07 AM »

Yes...Robert or Bob works....Thanks Steve? Polaraco...The car came out of Long Island originally....spent some time in Connecticut and now resides in upstate NY...It needs the minimum...both sides painted....may go for a full paintjob in the near future. If I do, it will get a color change....the lighter green Ma offered that year.. We'll see. It deserves some attention because it's a very solid car and of course it's C!!...Thanks..Bob
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Leaburn Patey

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #13 on: September 03, 2008, 03:50:55 PM »


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Robert Rottman

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Stuck (closed) heat riser valve??
« Reply #14 on: September 04, 2008, 12:37:41 AM »

Well....I took her down to the local garage for the inspection yesterday afternoon. When I went to start it up....just what I was afraid of before I took it apart....Exhaust leak!! I HATE exhaust leaks. Makes a car sound like a big pile of crap ready for the scrap yard...The guy at the shop said that the exhaust manifold gaskets are worthless. He said that He always just bolts them on...metal to metal. I always thought a gasket must go in between motor/exhaust manifold. I never heard this before. Has anyone else?? When I removed it, I did find nothing in between....When I started her up I was not only mad...but My first thought was that it is leaking from the exhaust manifold/crossover connection. Perhaps I have that connection misaligned a bit??? Maybe I need to loosen both sides of the crossover and then retighten?? Then I'll get a leak over on the driver side too...(I can see it coming)...What have you guys done in the past? Is there a proper sequence of reassembly here? It'll have to wait though, because I'm on to another project...The shed needs attention while the nice weather is here... furyfever2008-09-04 05:47:22
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