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Author Topic: Low Voltage Issues  (Read 2003 times)

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« on: August 10, 2008, 06:27:38 AM »

If you're reading this, there's a good chance you're familiar with the trials and tribulations I've experienced in trying to get my 1968 Sport Fury Convertible (440 L-code) to a mechanically reliable condition. I have had an unbelievable amount of help both here and in the real world. Without you guys and my great friends Jon H, Dave S, Jon L and Will G, I would be in a world of trouble.

My thanks to you all.

A refresher on what's been done over the last few months:
  • New Fuel Pump
  • New Starter
  • New CarburetorNew Fuel Filter
  • New Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit (MOPAR Kit)
  • New Spark Plugs
  • New Wires
  • New Solid-State Voltage Regulator
  • New Ballast ResistorNew Coil
  • New Brakes and Hardware all around
  • New Front Flex Lines
  • New Tires
  • New Convertible Top
  • New Axle seals
  • New Pinion Seal
  • New Transmission Filter and Fluid
I'm starting to get to the end of my list of things to be fixed. Thank God, as my finances are pretty much their end. That being said, I move onto the problem at hand.

I've had an electrical-related ignition problem. I'll spare you the long story, but the engine starts to run really rough and stall when I hit the brakes to stop or at idle (see my "LOOOONG TF Shifting issue" thread in the Drive Train section for details). Well it seems that the brake light circuit is not the cause. the real cause is that it doesn't appear that I have 12V at the 'feed' side of the ballast resistor. NOTE: Yesterday, I noticed that my coil also gets extremely hot when the engine is running. I don't know how this fits in, but I am thinking it's related

Now this is where I ran one of the wires from the Electronic Control Module when I installed the Electronic Conversion kit. If I run a temporary jumper wire from +VBAT to the feed side of the ballast resistor, the idle smooths right out and there is no stumble whatsoever. remove the jumper and the idle is rough and wants to stall. I should also note that while the jumper wire is applied, the ammeter doesn't react when electrical loads are applied (like brake lights, head lights, etc.).

I have a theory that what I have been calling the 'feed' side, is actually the output side.

What do you folks think?

Thanks for listening!

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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2008, 10:16:15 AM »

There's tons of stuff around on this.  But being a early C, start looking at the bulk head connector and fuse block.
 
This will help
http://www.moparfins.com/Repairs/Electrical/Bulk_Head_Connectors.htm
 
This has been the #1 problem with all the 60's Mopars.  It was never really cured until 74 or 75.  But in 72, considerable improvements were made in the wiring
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Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2008, 12:58:37 PM »

Once again, POLARACO to the rescue. Thanks for the link. I'll start to investigate the bulkhead/fuse block connection and as always report success/failure.

While I have you, any ideas on why my coil is getting so hot? I can't decide if a low voltage condition would cause this symptom.

Thanks again!!


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2008, 01:06:09 PM »

Coils get hot.  Remember it's nothing more than a transformer packed in oil.  It should be seeing around 9 volts at the + side.
 
Is it so hot you can't touch it?  It would be burning off the paint then
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Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2008, 01:09:14 PM »

It's hot enough that you could touch it for a couple seconds, but longer would be painful if not burn inducing.

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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2008, 01:10:50 PM »

To be fair, the whole engine seems to give off a LOT of heat. I assumed this was a MOPAR trait. Am I wrong?

BTW, Hi, Polaraco!


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #6 on: August 10, 2008, 01:11:00 PM »

Sounds normal.  Is it a stock oil filled?
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Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2008, 01:16:40 PM »

No. Aftermarket. I don't remember the brand off the top of my head, but it might be MSD. Cannister-type, I thing 40,000 Volts. I'll check and confirm tomorrow, if necessary.

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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2008, 01:31:43 PM »

Probably oil packed.  Yes they do get hot.  Don't forget there is some engine heat involved too
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Favorite Expression. . . Damned Kids.  Lots of projects.  Donations accepted

Steve

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2008, 01:47:30 PM »

OK, glad to hear that, POLARACO.

BTW, when I took her out for a test of the transmission, WOW! This car can really move out!

With every repair, I love her more and more.


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Snotty

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2008, 05:57:43 PM »

Unk, I just saw soimething that I don't recall seeing in your earlier posts.  You said it starts to misfire and stall "when you put your brakes on to stop."  There's a large possibility your problem is not electrical at all, but vacuum.
 
The only time I've experienced what you're describing is when I've had a leak on the power brake system, either on the vacuum hose going to your intake, the check valve being cracked, or a bad booster.   Some times the plastic cap on the spare check valve outlety has popped off. 
 
When any of the above happens your motor will draw way too much air when you apply the brakes and run bad, and/or die.
 
HAve you checked your power brake sysgtem ofr leaks or cracks?  When you put your foot on the pedal do you hear air?  (Hint: you should hear nothing.)
 
I would start there.
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Leaburn Patey

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2008, 06:12:20 PM »

Sorry,Snotts,he did mention in a previous post that he has manual (no power assist) brakes.
That'sa what lead him to believe it was the brake light switch taking a draw.
 
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1968 Newport Custom project BOAB
1973 Satelitte wagon
1983 Dodge 400
2006 300C HEMI!!

Snotty

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2008, 04:01:36 PM »

Quote from: CBarge
Sorry,Snotts,he did mention in a previous post that he has manual (no power assist) brakes.
That'sa what lead him to believe it was the brake light switch taking a draw.
 
When I was writing the above, the thought did hit me that he might have manual brakes.  Did I check??
 
He** no!
 
Sheesh! 
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Steve

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« Reply #13 on: August 11, 2008, 07:40:09 PM »

Time to open mouth and change feet. 
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R. Dave Carr

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Low Voltage Issues
« Reply #14 on: August 12, 2008, 07:00:10 PM »

Ooooooh, oooooh let me field this one!  Last winter when I put electronic ignition in my 300, I tried to drive it at night with the headlights on.  Everytime I hit the brakes, the car died and was hard to restart.  Got to the point where it died just turning the headlights on.  Come to find out, the alternator was dropping its load under heavy demand, and the electronic igntion was just enough to finish it off.  Check your output voltage, bnulkhead connector, and all the other  usual suspects in the charging system.
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1968 Newport Convertible
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