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Author Topic: '68 Sport Fury Update  (Read 1268 times)

Steve

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« on: June 25, 2008, 03:29:19 PM »

Thought I'd keep the gang updated on my progress so far.

When I last left you, I had just diagnosed a bizzare problem involving my conversion to electronic ignition. With that done, I moved on.......

I decided that the original convertible top, no matter how much I loved having the original, had to be replaced. No tears or serious rips, but the material had shrunken severely and had become incredibly stiff as well. I have always had good luck with Year One so I bought the new top there. I got the top, the back glass and new pads, but sadly they didn't have a new well for my vehicle. Shortly afterwards I saw that Legendary has the well for my car! I found this out a little too late and it wouldn't have arrived in time for my installation date. No great loss, as my well is in great shape. And it's original

I am fortunate/blessed to have a great friend who restores interiors and convertibles. He is just plain awesome. He took a day off from a multi-year, concours-level restoration on a 1962 F.I. Corvette. He had never done a top on a C-body and commented several times on what a great design the Plymouth engineers did on their convertible top assemblies. Much easier on the installer.

When he was done, the top looked fantastic! Not a wrinkle anywhere. Thanks for a stunning job, Dan.

With the top done, I am closer to getting her registered. the last things I need are:

Tires
Mufflers

Tires - I'm keeping the stock wheels so I am limited. The original tire size was 8.25 x 14. This puts me in a modern tire size of 225/70R14. Money is tight, so I am looking at a set of Uniroyal Tiger Paw GTS, mounted, balanced, and all fees/taxes out the door for $360. Not a bad deal.

Mufflers - This is where some input from you guys would be welcome. I want to go with a muffler that will complement the 440HP engine. Yes, I want it to sound like the Charger in Bullet! Again, budget restraints haunt me but I think I can find something good in my range. Cherry Bomb? Walker Dynomax Turbo? My pipes are good and solid so all I have to put on are the mufflers.

A thought occurred to me just now. Do they make GTX-style tailpipes for my Sport Fury? That might not look too bad, eh?

Standing-by for wisdom and Thanks!!
Uncle Hulka



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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Leaburn Patey

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2008, 04:52:57 PM »

PICS!! PICS!!
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1968 Newport Custom project BOAB
1973 Satelitte wagon
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Steve

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2008, 05:18:24 PM »

PICTURES!
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Steve

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2008, 12:34:05 PM »

OK OK! I'll get pictures when she's presentable. BUT in the meantime, I need to pick the brains for a solution/explanation to yet another issue!!!

UPDATE! I got temporary plates on her yesterday. You see, in CT, an out-of-state vehicle is subjected to a "VIN Verification" inspection before permanent registration plates are issued. To get inspected, the vehicle is issued temps to allow the vehicle to be driven to the DMV. This also let's me drive the car to the muffler shop so I could have a nice pair of mufflers installed.

Things I've noticed since driving her around a bit:

Although the temp gage stays in the normal range, when I park her, I can hear the radiator venting a little pressure and she dribbled a bit of coolant out of the overflow tube.

When she's warm, at idle she stumbles and has stalled like I had turned off the ignition. As anyone who's been following my stories knows, I am a little gun shy when it comes to the electronic ignition conversion I performed. I already had one bad 'orange' ECU right out of the box. So even though Summit replaced it, I still had a known good unit I got from NAPA (the one that allowed me to determine my problem). I swapped them, but the problem persists.

Then I thought it might be vapor lock. Given that a previous owner had installed an in-line fuel filter (metal housing) right in front of the carburetor (so it was resting right on top of the intake manifold), I imagined all the fuel in the filter just percolating in the heat. I relocated the filter so it is right after the fuel pump in a nice cool area.

Problem persists.

I'm so close I can taste it! Please, does anyone out here have wisdom to share?

Oh, before I forget. The last time I started her (about 45 minutes ago) my previously inoperative fuel gauge started to work again! I don't know how accurate it is, but it reads a half tank where before it always read empty. Thought you'd like to hear good news once in awhile!

Thanks and Standing-by


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Matt Aker

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2008, 01:15:22 PM »

I dunno' what to think about the fuel guage   call it a devine intervention.

Where's your timing set and how old is the ignition coil?
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Matt

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Steve

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2008, 02:37:49 PM »

Hi Matt!

Divine intervention? ABSOLUTELY

Coil? Brand new.
Voltage regulator? New.
Ballast resistor? New
Distributor? New
ECU? New
Spark Plugs? New
Plug wires? New
Carburetor? New
Air cleaner filter? New
Fuel Pump? New
Starter? New.
Tires? New.
Convertible top? New
Brakes? New

Broke? Yes


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Matt Aker

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2008, 02:49:47 PM »

Hmmm...  I'm gonna' rule-out the new convertible top as a culprit
Have you checked the fuel pump output?  I've seen new ones out of the box that were bad. 
 
Your borderline overheating issue has me curious.  Again, where is your timing set?  Both of my '68 big blocks were easy to diagnose.  It was usually a timing or points or t-stat issue where overheating is concerned.  
 
Let's look at the ignition timing first, where is it set at? 
 
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Matt

I love don't YOU?  Cause I never grew up!

Matt Aker

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2008, 02:53:56 PM »

Oh!  Does yer new dizzy have a new vacuum advance diaphram????
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Matt

I love don't YOU?  Cause I never grew up!

Steve

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #8 on: July 11, 2008, 03:24:08 PM »

I also ruled out the top as a culprit (the list was me venting).

I'll check the timing. I believe it should be 5 BTDC at idle with vacuum advance pulled and plugged. And yes the new dist has a new vacuum advance diaphragm (I would assume; it was all part of the mopar conversion kit I got from Summit.

I will also checked the thermostat. Meant to do that before and every time I thought of it, the system was hot and under pressure. By the time it cooled, I had forgotten.

As for the timing, how will too advanced/too retarded timing make it run hot? For what it's worth, I have never heard it ping (pre-detonate).

Thanks for your help!!!


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Matt Aker

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2008, 03:35:25 PM »

5 degrees BTDC is correct for a non-CAP engine.  A CAP would be 7.5 BTDC.  Timing will affect your cooling system, also create a hard hot start and shut-down dieseling problem.
 
Have you checked your timing with a vacuum guage at the manifold?  I know you converted over to electronic ignition but there still may be an issue there.
 
I'm just starting with some simple stuff here.  You know, back to basics.  If your fuel pump isn't pushing enough fuel it could cause a condition like this too.  Install a clear filter and see how much fuel is in it after the engine has been cranked and run.
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Matt

I love don't YOU?  Cause I never grew up!

Matt Aker

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2008, 03:45:10 PM »

Alright, now I know that I'm forgetful...  What are you running for a carberetor?  This issue is a simple one....
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Matt

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Steve

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #11 on: July 12, 2008, 02:13:32 PM »

Brand new Edelbrock 1407 Performer (750 CFM/Electric Choke)

BTW - just learned I have to replace all the gaskets/seals in my 8 3/4! I knew when I did the brakes that the old, cruddy oil build-up I found when I took off the right-rear drum I'd be doing this job. While taking my wife for a brief jaunt this afternoon, I started smelling what smelled like burning oil. Looked under the hood and couldn't see anything. By the time I got her home, I had smoke coming from that same wheel!!!!

It's my own damn fault. I am intimidated by that adjustable right-rear axle assembly! Is this going to be a big, complicated job?

I just want to make the leaks stop.

thanks for letting me vent!


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396

Stitcherbob

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #12 on: July 12, 2008, 08:21:43 PM »

No need to be intimi...idimitate.....inditmit....afraid of Mopar axles!
Just go here:

http://www.autohobbydigest.com/8_75.html

lots of info on 8 3/4" axles including part numbers and which ones are the strongest....


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Brian

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #13 on: July 13, 2008, 09:04:01 PM »

Go get he Sealed Green bearing kit for the Dana/8 3/4...no adjustment required after these are installed.
 
No one gave you any advice on mufflers...I went with Dynomax super turbos on the wagon...nice sounding muffler...I got them from Summit for about $45 each.
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Brian

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Steve

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'68 Sport Fury Update
« Reply #14 on: July 20, 2008, 04:05:08 AM »

UPDATE....
Had a LONG day working on the car yesterday. Did I mention that yesterday was in the upper 90's with ridiculous humidity levels? I was sweating like a pig before I started! Oh well.

I replaced oil seals for both axles (the ones in the axle tubes). The bearings were fine so I just repacked them. I also decided to pull the 3rd member while I had the axles out. To no real surprise I found it is not a Sure Grip. And just to add a little salt to the wound, it's a 2.76 ratio! I knew from the date code ('69) that it was not original. This diff had been in place for a very long time. I'm going to guess that back in the 70's, the owner swapped the orig 3.23 SG for the 2.76 to try to get better fuel economy. Why else would you do that to a car with a 440HP? BTW If anyone in the CT-area has a reasonably priced 742 or 489 Sure Grip 3rd member with 3.23 or 3.55 gears, please let me know.

Upon inspection I could see that there was a small leak at the pinion so I decided now would be the best time to replace the pinion seal. Before installing the seal, I treated the 3rd member to a trip to the parts washer so I could inspect her for any cracks. Didn't find any so I replaced the pinion seal and started to scrape the old gasket off the rear end housing. WOW, was this a tough job! I got every bit of old gasket off for a (hopefully) leak-free seal.

I Cleaned the rear end housing of the last traces of oil and any crap that might have gotten in while gasket-scraping. Then reinstalled the 3rd member, the axles and buttoned everything up. I decided not to fill it with fluid last night so the skim coat of RTV I put on the diff housing gasket would have time to cure. I'll fill it today.

It was the first time I've ever tackled a rear-end before. A lot of time and work, but it's all worth it. I'll keep the group informed and YES I'll get some pictures posted!


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Uncle Hulka

1967 Oldsmobile 4-4-2
1968 Plymouth Sport Fury Conv w/Factory 440HP
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1969 Oldsmobile Delta 88 w/Original B07 Police Package
1970 Chevelle 396
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